Let's go pure EV...

[jaapv]

Agree 100%. Damaging the batteries is expensive - and affects second-hand value.

 

[anko]

Agree 100%. Damaging the batteries is expensive - and affects second-hand value.

I would not opt for increasing B5 level (can't even imagine how that would have been achieved by just remapping throttle response). But if frequent use of B5 was indeed that harmful (which I am not questioning at this time), it would have been 'nice' if Mitsubishi had issued a warning with respect to the use of B5 . Like they have with frequent use of DC chargers (at least in the UK).

 

[elm70]

Agree 100%. Damaging the batteries is expensive - and affects second-hand value.

:ugeek:

Expensive ... is questionable .. the cost is that EV range is getting shorted in "sorter age time" .. how much this can be quantified in USD/EUR is tricky

Still ... if people can get a battery replacement inside warranty conditions ... (which could be harder if Mitsubishi find out that B5 regen has been "hacked") .. just before end of warranty ... it can be even a good deal (I have seen somebody who got a 2nd hand leaf, with bad battery, he tooks care to make the battery even worst, in order to get replacement for free ...)

About 2nd hand value ... I'm wondering how many buyers are able to verify battery conditions and if the average buyer even care to verify the battery

In none of the 2nd hand adv for the Outlander PHEV I have seen inside the sale description the report of battery condition ... (or maybe once I seen it :?: )

 

[jaapv]

Buyers are getting wise, and many do demand a battery condition report for the sale, according to my dealer.

 

[djmoscow]

With the settings for Prog 1 (the active prog), I would expect output to be at 42% (42% output triggers engine start) when input was 88% (this is when the pedal is in the kickdown position). Instead, I see output goes above 42% when throttle position is at 74ish %, well before the kickdown position.



What are the 8 programs?

 

[djmoscow]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TG2vAQ3yy_Y

Top speed: 150 km/h
Acceleration 0-100: 14,1 sek

how do you get the power gauge needle going from the green zone into the white zone without firing the ICE??

 

[zzcoopej]

how do you get the power gauge needle going from the green zone into the white zone without firing the ICE??

This guy sells an aftermarket product for the 2014-2016 MY PHEV which prevents the ICE from starting under hard acceleration, its called the "PHEV box" http://evtun.com/phev-box.html

 

[djmoscow]

how do you get the power gauge needle going from the green zone into the white zone without firing the ICE??

This guy sells an aftermarket product for the 2014-2016 MY PHEV which prevents the ICE from starting under hard acceleration, its called the "PHEV box" http://evtun.com/phev-box.html

I know, I bought one! But mine limits the power so the needle stays in the green (slightly to the left of the centre at about "11 oclock"). his goes way past the centre into the white but no ICE...??

got my phevbox delivered last week, installed it and have done the throttle calibration and changed some params according to one of the videos and it's running good now. need to do a firmware update which I haven't done yet and maybe tweak the params and the curve a bit more.
a little sluggish, could do with more power at take off, so could do with some advice on how to have maximum available EV power without firing the ICE. I'm running on setting "4" on the rotary controller inside the box. should I reduce to 3 to give more power?

I just bought an OBDII bluetooth adapter (waiting for delivery today - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06ZYM8PGQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and got the "PHEV Watchdog" app, so as of tomorrow I'll be able to have more access to diagnostics info and info on power.

any advice on what to do with the settings to give me more EV power up to full throttle as although the box has done its job and prevents the ICE from firing unless I kickdown, it "numbed" the car somewhat and made it slugglish.....

 

[anko]

how do you get the power gauge needle going from the green zone into the white zone without firing the ICE??

This guy sells an aftermarket product for the 2014-2016 MY PHEV which prevents the ICE from starting under hard acceleration, its called the "PHEV box" http://evtun.com/phev-box.html

Pretty sure this video IS originally from the guys that did the PHEV Box. As a matter of fact, this same topic was started by them and the very first post features a clip, just like this one. But they have manipulated the BMU / PHEV ECUs to allow for 70 kW battery output instead of 60 kW. This is why the needle can go into the white without firing up the ICE. Not related to the PHEV Box. I am sorry, we cannot do this with the PHEV Box.

The car (pretty sure it is this one) has also enhanced output from the ICE. Enlarged air intake and such. Seen it with my own eyes ;-). Might even have a refurbished battery with 18 kWh capacity.

 

[djmoscow]

how do you get the power gauge needle going from the green zone into the white zone without firing the ICE??

This guy sells an aftermarket product for the 2014-2016 MY PHEV which prevents the ICE from starting under hard acceleration, its called the "PHEV box" http://evtun.com/phev-box.html

Pretty sure this video IS originally from the guys that did the PHEV Box. As a matter of fact, this same topic was started by them and the very first post features a clip, just like this one. But they have manipulated the BMU / PHEV ECUs to allow for 70 kW battery output instead of 60 kW. This is why the needle can go into the white without firing up the ICE. Not related to the PHEV Box. I am sorry, we cannot do this with the PHEV Box.

The car (pretty sure it is this one) has also enhanced output from the ICE. Enlarged air intake and such. Seen it with my own eyes ;-). Might even have a refurbished battery with 18 kWh capacity.

I see. I since watched some more videos from their channel. I've seen that he's modified the battery from 9.8kW to over 19kW and said that there's potential to go to 26kW in the same housing. Impressive. I'm not going to mess with that... I'm not that skilled and don't have the relevant electrical/electronic engineering knowledge.
This also explains how he's got the power output to go to 70kW to the motors instead of 60kW and the needle goes to white without ICE.

Also having more regen power going into the battery in B5 - makes sense if you have a bigger battery, but will probably damage a normal stock battery?

anyway. I've had the box less than a week. Does great job. Stops the ICE from coming on. I need to fiddle with the settings a bit more as the ICEstopHeater isn't quite working right, ICE still comes on when I put the heater on.....not a huge issue. My main question is - how do I get more power in ECO/EV mode with this box as it numbed the car down a bit and I'd like to have the full EV power without the ICE.... I'd love to be able to floor it full throttle and have all 60kW available EV power without ICE. My journey to work is 7.5 miles each way, so I can easily go to work and back and still come home with 5-10 miles EV range left. It's great knowing I can commute in pure EV mode, keeping my costs down and being better for environment, but would also be nice to get around a bit quicker and not be confused with a granny at the wheel
any suggestions would be welcome. thanks

 

[djmoscow]

What are the 8 programs?

I've got the answer from Vtech by email:

"Box have preprogrammed optimal characteristic for PHEV models:

Program 1 – 2013

Program 2 – 2014

Program 3 – 2015

Program 4 – 2016

Programs 5, 6, 7 and 8 are not used and they are empty for now.

For each program parameters for Kickdown can be set separately, so why you see the 8 settings.

Of course if you want to play with your own characteristic or settings, you can use programs from 5 to 8 without changing “base” programs."