Chris Lindesay
New member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2024
- Messages
- 3
I have a 2017 5HS with 41k miles and the battery is about to be replaced just before the warranty runs out.
It is booked in in Early March to put in a new battery - which will be a "new" Mitsubishi battery but without any warranty as such.
I have read about the "naughty reset" aka Lindquist / Dublin reset which apparently resets the BMU to think it has a better SoH than the original algorithm guessed at.
I am inclined to see if a reset might be informative but I do not want to damage the rest of the system.
As I understand it, the reset involved putting the car on charge - disconnecting the aux battery and then unplugging the charger to basically kill all power in the car -
then reconnecting the aux and plugging back in.
My worry is that like the old days when replacing an ICE car battery you had to spend months driving around with "CODE" showing on the radio while you try to figure out how to enter it into the Radio - this Naughty reset might confuse other systems on the car many of whom I might not yet have discovered.
I think I have everything understood but have not figured out how to test the "collision mitigation system" - it seems to need you to try to drive into a wall so it can stop you - and my nerves are not yet up to it.
So any thoughts on what problems the reset might cause and what I might learn - and if it is worth the risk will be appreciated.
It is booked in in Early March to put in a new battery - which will be a "new" Mitsubishi battery but without any warranty as such.
I have read about the "naughty reset" aka Lindquist / Dublin reset which apparently resets the BMU to think it has a better SoH than the original algorithm guessed at.
I am inclined to see if a reset might be informative but I do not want to damage the rest of the system.
As I understand it, the reset involved putting the car on charge - disconnecting the aux battery and then unplugging the charger to basically kill all power in the car -
then reconnecting the aux and plugging back in.
My worry is that like the old days when replacing an ICE car battery you had to spend months driving around with "CODE" showing on the radio while you try to figure out how to enter it into the Radio - this Naughty reset might confuse other systems on the car many of whom I might not yet have discovered.
I think I have everything understood but have not figured out how to test the "collision mitigation system" - it seems to need you to try to drive into a wall so it can stop you - and my nerves are not yet up to it.
So any thoughts on what problems the reset might cause and what I might learn - and if it is worth the risk will be appreciated.
