Burning rubber smell from back of car, while just driving on ECO.

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Haenzel, did you mean to point to something that is part of an Outlander PHEV?

There's nothing on that page that indicates that.

Maybe include a diagram that shows where it is installed on a PHEV?
 
Haenzel, did you mean to point to something that is part of an Outlander PHEV?

There's nothing on that page that indicates that.

Maybe include a diagram that shows where it is installed on a PHEV?
There is, in blue, near the top of the page, just above the image that doesn't show.

See also the following info on the Richi Jennings website, where the smal wet clutch is the torque converter and the emergency clutch the torque limiter:

K.1. The front transaxle​

The PHEV has a single-speed transaxle mated to the engine. Made by GKN, which calls it a “Multimode eTransmission,” it coordinates the engine and the two front motor-generators using a small wet clutch. There’s another, emergency clutch known as the torque limiter that joins the engine and the transaxle. (There’s a third motor-generator on the rear axle to provide AWD, but no kinetic coupling or power transfer front-to-back.)
 
There is, in blue, near the top of the page, just above the image that doesn't show.

See also the following info on the Richi Jennings website, where the smal wet clutch is the torque converter and the emergency clutch the torque limiter:

K.1. The front transaxle​

The PHEV has a single-speed transaxle mated to the engine. Made by GKN, which calls it a “Multimode eTransmission,” it coordinates the engine and the two front motor-generators using a small wet clutch. There’s another, emergency clutch known as the torque limiter that joins the engine and the transaxle. (There’s a third motor-generator on the rear axle to provide AWD, but no kinetic coupling or power transfer front-to-back.)
The small wet clutch is not a torque converter and Richi has not said that it is. It is a wet clutch, similar to those on motorbikes and acts like a typical manual car's dry clutch in easing the engine revs to match the transmission revs. There is a flywheel attached to the engine and the torque limiter outer casing is attached to that. It is not actually a clutch as far as I can tell and I think this is what's happening.
The outer casing of the limiter is connected to the central splined connector of the limiter via 4 concentric, strong springs set out in the same format as a dry clutch. The spline at the centre connects to a shaft from the eTransmission which is connected to the wet clutch. The torque limiter springs will smooth out the initial impact (torque) of the engine as plates of the wet clutch engage with the drive gear in the eTransmission.
I think it's quite clever. Manual cars have those springs as part of the clutch plate but Mitsubishi have moved the clutch friction mechanism into the gearbox but left the springs in the limiter.
 
The small wet clutch is not a torque converter and Richi has not said that it is. It is a wet clutch, similar to those on motorbikes and acts like a typical manual car's dry clutch in easing the engine revs to match the transmission revs. There is a flywheel attached to the engine and the torque limiter outer casing is attached to that. It is not actually a clutch as far as I can tell and I think this is what's happening.
The outer casing of the limiter is connected to the central splined connector of the limiter via 4 concentric, strong springs set out in the same format as a dry clutch. The spline at the centre connects to a shaft from the eTransmission which is connected to the wet clutch. The torque limiter springs will smooth out the initial impact (torque) of the engine as plates of the wet clutch engage with the drive gear in the eTransmission.
I think it's quite clever. Manual cars have those springs as part of the clutch plate but Mitsubishi have moved the clutch friction mechanism into the gearbox but left the springs in the limiter.
Update and correction to my previous message as I was wrong about the torque limiter. It is basically a standard dry clutch for emergency use and does not have an actuator. Richi has kindly explained it to me in more detail as summarised below:
In general, nondestructive torque limiters are normally-closed clutches (there are other types, obviously). The patents formerly assigned to GKN describe them as clutches (as do ZF's and Lucas's).
The idea is to break or limit torque transmission in the event of a failure or unexpected event, so as to mitigate damage to ICE, transaxle, generator and/or front motor. There's no actuation mechanism: It relies on interference (stiction) to transmit torque. Excessive torque should temporarily break the stiction, thus limiting the peak torque.
Yes, there are springs, as with any conventional dry clutch, which are used to damp flutter/resonance/"clutch judder." They're not moved from the wet clutch as such, because wet clutches don't need them (anyway, the wet clutch is used to engage parallel mode). The business end is a dry, single plate 220/170 clutch.
 
Haenzel, it might help you to know the 'scrote' is a slang term in the UK with a dictionary definition of 'a worthless person' but in normal use is usually used as an insult to describe a man you consider to be inferior and obnoxious (or worse). It comes from the word 'scrotum' - the hairy skin surrounding testicles. We would add 'little' to emphasise an insult. In choosing to be called Littlescrote it is perhaps unsurprising that his responses are not going to be pleasant, patient or very considerate but I guess he gets a kick from insulting people. It's a pity because his purely technical comments, unlike his opinions and insults, are often helpful.
Have a nice day! :)
That's quite a leap and rather judgemental from something that originated as a misspelling of Escort from my Ford forum days, but if that's the way you want to be.

As I said, there is no intention to offend, insult or anything else. It's not a schoolyard, I'm just calling out blatant BS from people who come out with it with no factual basis behind what they've spouted. If you or anyone else can't handle that, maybe fact check yourselves before typing rubbish.

Do you think it's helpful to just leave the misinformation there uncorrected just in case someone is offended by being told they're wrong?
 
Haenzel, it might help you to know the 'scrote' is a slang term in the UK with a dictionary definition of 'a worthless person' but in normal use is usually used as an insult to describe a man you consider to be inferior and obnoxious (or worse). It comes from the word 'scrotum' - the hairy skin surrounding testicles. We would add 'little' to emphasise an insult. In choosing to be called Littlescrote it is perhaps unsurprising that his responses are not going to be pleasant, patient or very considerate but I guess he gets a kick from insulting people. It's a pity because his purely technical comments, unlike his opinions and insults, are often helpful.
Have a nice day! :)
Haaaa...
This is why my kids are so smart.
They are always on the internet and get showered with education.
I always thought that it polluted their minds... However, so much to learn, even in a car forum.
Thanks guys.

Seriously... Had the smell this morning.
But rims had similar temperatures.

I was wondering, would it make sense to assume that "highway driving" and minimal amount of break usage wouldn't be enough to build up heat on the rims?
Maybe drive around town, use breaks a lot to see if there is a temperature change...

Investigative mode...lol
Cheers!
 
My 2020 GT has had a similar smell ever since I got it last year, and I have to say it seems to happen mostly when I have been driving the car and also had it in Charge mode. It doesnt seem to happen when the car is just sitting and running in Charge mode.
 
Update and correction to my previous message as I was wrong about the torque limiter. It is basically a standard dry clutch for emergency use and does not have an actuator. Richi has kindly explained it to me in more detail as summarised below:
In general, nondestructive torque limiters are normally-closed clutches (there are other types, obviously). The patents formerly assigned to GKN describe them as clutches (as do ZF's and Lucas's).
The idea is to break or limit torque transmission in the event of a failure or unexpected event, so as to mitigate damage to ICE, transaxle, generator and/or front motor. There's no actuation mechanism: It relies on interference (stiction) to transmit torque. Excessive torque should temporarily break the stiction, thus limiting the peak torque.
Yes, there are springs, as with any conventional dry clutch, which are used to damp flutter/resonance/"clutch judder." They're not moved from the wet clutch as such, because wet clutches don't need them (anyway, the wet clutch is used to engage parallel mode). The business end is a dry, single plate 220/170 clutch.
I would like to know whether the friction plate of the torque limiter/dry clutch contains compounded rubber, often used in dry clutches. I quote: " Overheating Clutch - An overheating clutch, typically from riding or excessive wear, produces a burning rubber smell...."
To me that's the number one suspect...
 
My 2019 also suffers the burning rubber smell, seems to be when I use the charge button more than anything else. Does seem to come from the left rear though so could well be something rubber close to the exhaust. Thats my best guess. Could be a rubber exhaust hanger? I can't say I ever smell it using ev mode .
 
The other possibility is brake pads that are not disengaging (i.e. a stuck piston or caliper).

It's worth checking the area for heat to see if that's an issue for you.
 
My 2019 also suffers the burning rubber smell, seems to be when I use the charge button more than anything else. Does seem to come from the left rear though so could well be something rubber close to the exhaust. Thats my best guess. Could be a rubber exhaust hanger? I can't say I ever smell it using ev mode .
sorry I mean right rear, offside here in the UK, where the exhaust is.
 
Not while charging. Not coming from the heater.
Drive for 15 km and there it is. Coming from close to the back wheel, passenger side.
Went to dealership, they could not find anything wrong.

Just like it's saying "BOO" and that it's going to cost me lots.
Sounds like today's cars.

Am I going to be a statistic?
That is the question.
 
Thanks for the intelligent response!
No smell today... So I could not validate.

I've heard about having a dud tire (which makes no sense, since the smell is intermittent).
I also heard about the battery floor and some connector cooking (again, intermittent, so, no.).
I also heard of exhaust pipe touching a wire... Again, same philosophy.

This is the most intelligent I've heard/read.
This fits with my intermittent scenario.
I'm actually looking forward to detect that smell again.

Thanks again .
 
The next time you notice the smell, stop the car and touch left rear tire rim at the centre, then the right side one and compare temperature to the touch. Might be a sticky calliper.
I have a 2023 outlander PHEV and have noticed the burning rubber smell and reported it to my dealership. They have told me there’s nothing to worry about and it is the catalytic converter burning off, build up because the ice engine doesn’t run frequently…… I have had the car for a year and a half, and it is a intermittent smell …. never happens on Ev mode.
 
It's usually just stuff on the exhaust pipe burning off because the PHEV exhaust pipe gets hotter than a normal ICE would generally, as you get high engine output at very low speed where there's no cooling airflow, whereas you can't do that in an ICE without driving against the brakes.

This is not a new hypothesis, but it's been oft dismissed by people that don't understand it or haven't considered my point above.
 
It's usually just stuff on the exhaust pipe burning off because the PHEV exhaust pipe gets hotter than a normal ICE would generally, as you get high engine output at very low speed where there's no cooling airflow, whereas you can't do that in an ICE without driving against the brakes.

This is not a new hypothesis, but it's been oft dismissed by people that don't understand it or haven't considered my point above.
I agree. Perhaps try setting the car to Charge when parked with a low battery and see if the smell happens after 15 minutes.
 
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