What is normal for a 2018 PHEV with 75,000 miles on it, in the United States

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum

Help Support Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Three months ago, I bought a 2018 Mitsubishi PHEV from a dealer in Fort Lauderdale. The unit appears to be in great shape. The tires look new, and the interior is spotless and shows no sign of wear. The CARFAX report indicates constant maintenance by the prior owner. Someone took good care of this car. Thanks.

When I gave the car its first overnight charge (off of a household 120 volt line), the next morning it indicated 12 miles of EV range. I have faithfully charged the car every night for three months with the supplied charging cable. I either charge at 8 amp or 12 amps. As time past, the EV range has increased from 12 miles to 15 miles following an evening charge.

I don't know if this EV range of 15 miles should be expected and is normal from a 6-year-old car. I know there is natural battery degradation, but how much is normal?

Should I take it to a dealer and request that the drive battery be worked on?

What should I ask for?

How much should that service cost?

What should I realistically expect?

What's been your experience in having your drive battery refreshed?

Love to hear your advice.

Bob Hedges
Florida.
What's your average mpg? Range is dynamic not static. You probably don't have battery degradation but are using features which use more of the battery. The simple solution is to learn your driving habits and mate those habits to different drive modes to see which gives you the best fuel efficiency/mpgs. I wouldn't mess around with the 12v auxiliary battery. That's just asking for trouble. Using the drivetrain battery optimally gives great fuel advantages/savings whether you're doing pure EV or mixed driving. Biggest influence on the car's innate engineering is type of driving so familiarize yourself with it.
check out video below:
 
Oh dear, here we go again with the range questions. It's as though I'm stuck in a time loop back to 2015 not in 2025.

So firstly, what range - that shown on the guessometer after charging up (certainly seems to be what the OP is referring to) or the actual pure EV mileage you can do on a full battery before the ICE kicks in?

Now whilst speed, weight and general driving style (e.g. racing between sets of traffic lights and braking heavily) can reduce actual mileage, the real killer is hills. Most of us can just about push the car on the flat but few will be able to lift its two tonnes even fractionally. The energy required to overcome gravity is far larger than that needed for the mere friction of the tyres against the ground. Therefore, if your journeys involve lots of up and downs then you will get less range than just driving on the flat. No guesses why Holland was the launch country in Europe. 🤣

Which brings us to the guessometer figure - which is exactly that, "a guess" and is mainly (we think) based on the last journey. So, back to the hills point! If you live at the top, your drive up to your house will be using more energy than going down the next day after a recharge but the car doesn't know the topology of where you live and will predict the same miserable figure achieved the night before. 😥

Alternatively, if you live at the bottom and drive down the hill to get home your energy use might be almost zero, so the next day the car will predict a stupidly good range of perhaps 50+ miles and you will be disappointed when the ICE kicks in at 10 when you are going up the hill.

Because of the variables of how and where you drive, it is almost pointless trying to compare range with other users on-line unless you know how and where they drive (in detail)! Remember that, in theory, this problem also applies to ICE cars, but they are such inefficient converters of energy to motion that the differences described are swamped by the conversion losses, so that we barely notice the drop in range.

Finally, before rushing off to a dealer and wasting time and money with them, check your actual potential EV range by finding a steady drive on the flat without frequent stops and starts, and see how far you can go before the ICE kicks in. Then use that as a benchmark to monitor "real world" range. 😎
This is the only common sense post in the entire forum. The rest is ignorance and garbage
 
Back
Top