anko
Well-known member
Of course Save and Normal mode would do so too. If only the car would not intermittently switch to EV mode and use up the stored energy. Look at Trex' (or my ) diagram.
maby said:The instantaneous charge current may be the same, but there is a massive difference in the effective charge current and power output otherwise Save or Normal mode would be taking the battery back up to full in an hour or so. You don't put upwards of 10kWh into the battery in an hour without increasing average power output.
Ok. Towing means Save. Suburban means normal mode. That's easy. But what about the others: if we can decided what existing setting is correct for those conditions, simply use that existing setting. If we cannot decide, neither can the car. You are replace labels but not make the car understand what lays ahead ...maby said:Trex said:...
As why not the default mode? The Phev does not know our individual trip patterns.
Regards Trex.
Quite true. I guess that what I would prefer to see in place of the "Charge", "Save" and "Eco" buttons would be a set of usage style settings - things like "Suburban", "Motorway", "Long range", "Towing" - which select active power management strategies designed to suit those conditions selecting a power management policy that takes into account a combination of fuel economy, performance and battery life expectancy. I'm sure that it is possible to achieve the best results through a suitable combination of Charge and Save across your journey, but it really should not be necessary to be so actively involved in these decisions.
anko said:...
Ok. Towing means Save. Suburban means normal mode. That's easy. But what about the others: if we can decided what existing setting is correct for those conditions, simply use that existing setting. If we cannot decide, neither can the car. You are replace labels but not make the car understand what lays ahead ...
Grigou said:maby said:The instantaneous charge current may be the same, but there is a massive difference in the effective charge current and power output otherwise Save or Normal mode would be taking the battery back up to full in an hour or so. You don't put upwards of 10kWh into the battery in an hour without increasing average power output.
10 kWh in an hour ?
It's just 10 kW (and ~ 30 A) during one hour. What else ?
Indeed. Charge rate (and thus efficiency) will drop as SOC gets higher (first step down at approx. 50%). The 10 kW would be an average over time.maby said:Grigou said:maby said:The instantaneous charge current may be the same, but there is a massive difference in the effective charge current and power output otherwise Save or Normal mode would be taking the battery back up to full in an hour or so. You don't put upwards of 10kWh into the battery in an hour without increasing average power output.
10 kWh in an hour ?
It's just 10 kW (and ~ 30 A) during one hour. What else ?
Sorry, don't understand what you are saying - 10kWh is a quantity of energy and 10kW is a quantity of power. You can charge 10kWh in many different ways - 10kW for an hour, 20kW for half an hour, 5kW for 2 hours, etc. etc. The standard 16A charging point puts 10kWh in in about 3 hours - so it is charging at around 3kW for 3 hours (plus a bit)
maby said:Grigou said:maby said:The instantaneous charge current may be the same, but there is a massive difference in the effective charge current and power output otherwise Save or Normal mode would be taking the battery back up to full in an hour or so. You don't put upwards of 10kWh into the battery in an hour without increasing average power output.
10 kWh in an hour ?
It's just 10 kW (and ~ 30 A) during one hour. What else ?
Sorry, don't understand what you are saying - 10kWh is a quantity of energy and 10kW is a quantity of power. You can charge 10kWh in many different ways - 10kW for an hour, 20kW for half an hour, 5kW for 2 hours, etc. etc. The standard 16A charging point puts 10kWh in in about 3 hours - so it is charging at around 3kW for 3 hours (plus a bit)
Start with driving at a constant speed with an SOC <= 30% and wait for the engine to fire. With an OBD scanner you can note a specific instantaneous fuel consumption (don't need to explain this to you ). Now demand more power from there engine by pressing the gas pedal. You will see that the instantaneous fuel consumption will go up by a decent amount (maybe even 30 - 40%). Looking at the graph showing the engine characteristics (power / torque / sweet spot and such), this tells us the engine was operating well below the sweet spot before you started accelerating.gwatpe said:My experience is that the PHEV is not underpowered, but the electrics are unable to fully supply battery recharging needs to supplement battery use during periods of high power needs. As a result the battery is slowly depleted until PHEV driving performance is impeded, a result of the lack of additional power available from the battery when it is depleted. The optimized power algorithms for ICE efficiency dictate the power that is available for battery recharging while driving. I doubt that MMC would de-optimize the PHEV to give more recharging power.
Kristian said:I have enjoyed this debate and the very illustrative graph! But I have a question. If you use the Charge button form SOC bottum to top you should gain a 52 km EV range and for that you use 3.1 l petrol. This gives 6.15 l/100 km and that seems better than many reports on fuels usage runing tha car after the EV range. Even if the calculation is optimistic I have seen people using 7-8 l by letting the PHEV do its own stuff. Opinions?
K
PS Just ordered a 5hs for use here in Norway, so no experience yet.
Kim said:I belive the 3.x litres from bottom to stop charging are @ around 80% soc.
That would give us 40 km electric and equal a little more than 8l/100km
I was looking for Trex's original post with this experiment, but I couldn't find it.
Hope he can clear it up?!
I think it is both. If it would zigzag around for example 50%, people would bitch about the fact that the car had used only 50% of the battery capacity they had payed for. If it was above 50%, the engine efficiency would go down as the charge current was reduced to protect the battery.Kristian said:Again an interesting curve. Is the reason that the car chooses to zigzag close to the turtel redline because it is the most efficient SOC range, or because it would be stupid to arrive without having used up most of the charge? Perhaps both?
anko said:Some people play with Save mode to come by: use Save mode to zigzag around a higher SOC as long as they are far away from home and then after a while, when they get close to home (or the next charge point), disengage Save mode to allow the battery to drain to 26 - 30% SOC.
I still don't understand that. Under normal driving conditions 30% is more than enough to keep you out of the Turtle zone. For more demanding conditions (towing, climbing), you can use Charge mode to optimize your SOC "in advance and during". When your driving conditions are such that the battery would be drained well below 30%, I don't see how Save mode could save the day.
3 very good reasons for people to use "Save" mode this way :anko said:Some [most ?] people..... use Save mode to zigzag around a higher SOC as long as they are far away from home and then after a while, when they get close to... charge point, disengage Save mode to allow the battery to drain to 26 - 30% SOC.
I still don't understand that. Under normal driving conditions 30% is more than enough to keep you out of the Turtle zone....
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