Self levelling headlights

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Actually, an interesting experiment would be for someone who lives close to a reasonably steep hill to park facing up or down, wait a few minutes, then start the car, wait a few more minutes and drive onto the flat - do they re-level themselves? How long does it take?
 
To add, regularly carry a 100kg magnet in the boot of mine, when removed I can see the beam self adjust in one or two seconds. No problem or irritated oncomers, with or without load. GX4h 64 plate 3weeks old.
 
jdsx said:
greendwarf said:
Having cycled a lot myself here in London I would say the opposite, as the unnecessary use of headlights in well lit streets actually prevents you seeing oncoming two wheelers due to the dazzle :cry:
You must be passing all those Outlanders with badly adjusted headlights :lol:

Worst of all are idiots driving with one badly aligned nearside light which looks like a solo m/c until you are almost on it and realise how far over your side of the road it is. :eek:
 
maby said:
I can't imagine that headlamp levelling would be controlled from the car's firmware - surely these are turnkey units with the levelling mechanism built into the light fitting? I would have thought it was as simple as a spirit level mechanism that is free to rock for a few seconds, then locks in position - no point in building in complex sensors and servo motors!

This may be the case and it may be that the sensor that lets the light fitting know that the car is moving is not connected, so the light fitting continues to keep trying to level the light when the car is moving. The RHS and LHS light move down when the car is stationery and a front door is opened, while the LHS light beam jumps up and then slowly moves down when the car is moving on a bumpy road. The beam moves up several meters, so is quite a problem when there is oncoming traffic.

Someone may have a service manual handy that could shed some light on what is involved to check.
 
Looks like no-one has access to a service manual to help out with how the leveling lights work. I was asked off forum to see if the lights lowered when a door was opened while driving. Has been checked and Not noticeably, if any, but the lights still drop when pulled up to the end of the garage and stationery, about an inch, at about 3 feet away. LHS light still does its thing with bumps.
 
The saga of the HID lights continues.

A recent country drive at night with lights on high beam with the switch in AUTO. Usual setting. Wipers in AUTO position as well. Rain sensing sensitivity was low. Anyway, luckily had the high beams on, as had to use the washers to remove some bugs from the windscreen. Used the flick wash, to pulse the washer, with wipers operating. The HID lights turned OFF and ON with the washer pump.

There have been interactions with the lights and wipers and vice versa previously.

Looks like CAN bus systems were arguing. Only did it the once on the trip. Last time, the HID lights went OFF for the duration the wipers were ON. No faults presented in the computer memory logs.

When got home, the HID beams did not lower when the car doors were opened. There is possibly some car computer reason behind this, as I would have expected the lights to move the beam when the doors were opened like has happened the other occasions it was checked.

Anyway driving at night and the lights turn OFF is not good. Will soon be a Mitsubishi problem.
 
gwatpe said:
The saga of the HID lights continues.

A recent country drive at night with lights on high beam with the switch in AUTO. Usual setting. Wipers in AUTO position as well. Rain sensing sensitivity was low. Anyway, luckily had the high beams on, as had to use the washers to remove some bugs from the windscreen. Used the flick wash, to pulse the washer, with wipers operating. The HID lights turned OFF and ON with the washer pump.

There have been interactions with the lights and wipers and vice versa previously.

Looks like CAN bus systems were arguing. Only did it the once on the trip. Last time, the HID lights went OFF for the duration the wipers were ON. No faults presented in the computer memory logs.

When got home, the HID beams did not lower when the car doors were opened. There is possibly some car computer reason behind this, as I would have expected the lights to move the beam when the doors were opened like has happened the other occasions it was checked.

Anyway driving at night and the lights turn OFF is not good. Will soon be a Mitsubishi problem.

Gwatpe, did you make any progress with the headlight/washer interaction you describe above? I recently had similar, driving at night, dipped beam on auto, wipers on auto, pulled the wiper stick to wash the windscreen and the lights flicked off then on again as the washer squirted. The off duration was only a fraction of a second, but a little concerning nonetheless.

I also have been flashed several times by oncoming traffic because the dipped beam is set too high. But there's nothing we can do apart from drive with only sidelights? Also I have never noticed any levelling movement of the beam going on, not that I've really looked for it. But in a BMW 320GT I drove last year, the self-levelling just wouldn't stay still, and I got flashed by oncoming traffic all the time when driving at night! Is the PHEV self-levelling really obvious when driving? If so, mine doesn't work.....
 
DrSlackBladder said:
I also have been flashed several times by oncoming traffic because the dipped beam is set too high. But there's nothing we can do apart from drive with only sidelights?

Me too - they are definitely set too high and need to be manually adjusted ....... when I get time to figure out how to do it :(
 
The dimming of the lights is normal with HIDs they don't actually dim, just looks like it when squirted with cleaner. The same with of my hid equipped cars.
 
The basic levelling of the HID-lights can be adjusted with a simple PH-screwdriver. There is a cogwheel on the back of the lightunit. Just park in front of a wall, rock the car (front and rear) to set the selfadjustment right and turn the cogwheel.
The selfadjustment system has sensors on both front and rear suspension and a ECU.
 
DrSlackBladder said:
gwatpe said:
The saga of the HID lights continues.

A recent country drive at night with lights on high beam with the switch in AUTO. Usual setting. Wipers in AUTO position as well. Rain sensing sensitivity was low. Anyway, luckily had the high beams on, as had to use the washers to remove some bugs from the windscreen. Used the flick wash, to pulse the washer, with wipers operating. The HID lights turned OFF and ON with the washer pump.

There have been interactions with the lights and wipers and vice versa previously.

Looks like CAN bus systems were arguing. Only did it the once on the trip. Last time, the HID lights went OFF for the duration the wipers were ON. No faults presented in the computer memory logs.

When got home, the HID beams did not lower when the car doors were opened. There is possibly some car computer reason behind this, as I would have expected the lights to move the beam when the doors were opened like has happened the other occasions it was checked.

Anyway driving at night and the lights turn OFF is not good. Will soon be a Mitsubishi problem.

Gwatpe, did you make any progress with the headlight/washer interaction you describe above? I recently had similar, driving at night, dipped beam on auto, wipers on auto, pulled the wiper stick to wash the windscreen and the lights flicked off then on again as the washer squirted. The off duration was only a fraction of a second, but a little concerning nonetheless.

I also have been flashed several times by oncoming traffic because the dipped beam is set too high. But there's nothing we can do apart from drive with only sidelights? Also I have never noticed any levelling movement of the beam going on, not that I've really looked for it. But in a BMW 320GT I drove last year, the self-levelling just wouldn't stay still, and I got flashed by oncoming traffic all the time when driving at night! Is the PHEV self-levelling really obvious when driving? If so, mine doesn't work.....

My PHEV has been replaced, and so far the new PHEV has none of the computer glitch problems as seen in my original car. Very interesting that your car had interactions with wiper/washers and the headlamps. This would suggest that Mitsubishi needs to rework the car firmware and find the fault. Just imagine if an accident with fatalities was linked to loss of headlights caused by a now known fault that has presented in more than 1 PHEV. Might be on opportune time to fix a few more of the known bugs as well. So far it seems like all the tech crew have managed to change in the firmware is how long the heating can be remotely controlled for.

BTW the self leveling HID on the new PHEV are awaiting testing. Had to wait for some sonic animal deterants before I do night time testing. I had the original PHEV almost 6 months before it was replaced, and have only had the new one a few weeks. I will be looking at mods to the self leveling as it is really not as good as well adjusted fixed beams.
 
DrSlackBladder said:
I recently had similar, driving at night, dipped beam on auto, wipers on auto, pulled the wiper stick to wash the windscreen and the lights flicked off then on again as the washer squirted. The off duration was only a fraction of a second, but a little concerning nonetheless.

Are you sure this was not just the effect of the headlamp washers squirting fluid onto the headlamps at the same time as you are washing the screen and obscuring the beam?

I have noticed this on mine a couple of times when washing the screen at night and it is as you describe, but it is normal. Try it when stationary.

PHEV Manual said:
If the operation mode is in ON or ACC and the headlamps are on, the headlamp washer operates together with the windscreen washer the first time the windscreen washer lever is pulled.
 
My PHEV has been replaced, and so far the new PHEV has none of the computer glitch problems as seen in my original car. Very interesting that your car had interactions with wiper/washers and the headlamps. This would suggest that Mitsubishi needs to rework the car firmware and find the fault. Just imagine if an accident with fatalities was linked to loss of headlights caused by a now known fault that has presented in more than 1 PHEV. Might be on opportune time to fix a few more of the known bugs as well. So far it seems like all the tech crew have managed to change in the firmware is how long the heating can be remotely controlled for.

BTW the self leveling HID on the new PHEV are awaiting testing. Had to wait for some sonic animal deterants before I do night time testing. I had the original PHEV almost 6 months before it was replaced, and have only had the new one a few weeks. I will be looking at mods to the self leveling as it is really not as good as well adjusted fixed beams.

They may not be as good, but self-leveling is a legal requirement with HID lights in many countries.
 
BeeJay said:
DrSlackBladder said:
I recently had similar, driving at night, dipped beam on auto, wipers on auto, pulled the wiper stick to wash the windscreen and the lights flicked off then on again as the washer squirted. The off duration was only a fraction of a second, but a little concerning nonetheless.

Are you sure this was not just the effect of the headlamp washers squirting fluid onto the headlamps at the same time as you are washing the screen and obscuring the beam?

I have noticed this on mine a couple of times when washing the screen at night and it is as you describe, but it is normal. Try it when stationary.

PHEV Manual said:
If the operation mode is in ON or ACC and the headlamps are on, the headlamp washer operates together with the windscreen washer the first time the windscreen washer lever is pulled.

Thanks for the tip, will try when stationary.
 
The headlight washers would need to be spraying black ink to reduce the light to nil. There is no way that the spraying of clear water onto the headlamp glass would be the same effect as turning OFF the light. I suspect a software problem, or a fault with the HID lamp power supply being affected by the ON-OFF current spikes caused by the washer mechanisms. I did notice that when testing HID replacement bulbs for the high beam, that the lamps would not always fire up. Only started looking at new high beam lamps after the original problems with the STD HID with the wipers was noticed.

The Power supply of HID lamps is very sensitive to the source impedance of the wiring, and it is possible that under certain conditions, the wiring cannot supply the required current and the HID power supply can shut down momentarily.

Still a fault to have the light output change unintentionally, whatever is causing it.
 
I think you may find that as the 12 volt battery that is used to supply the basic electrics of the vehicle is so small and poorly rated that things like the wipers combined with the headlight washers are adding a drain that reduces effective current for the HIDs.

I assume you've replaced your bulbs and these aren't the standard fit, so would be worth noting if people that have retained manufacturer spec are having the same problem.
 
Ozukus said:
I think you may find that as the 12 volt battery that is used to supply the basic electrics of the vehicle is so small and poorly rated that things like the wipers combined with the headlight washers are adding a drain that reduces effective current for the HIDs.

I assume you've replaced your bulbs and these aren't the standard fit, so would be worth noting if people that have retained manufacturer spec are having the same problem.

I had the wiper/washer/headlight problem and have not changed anything from standard.
 
Ozukus said:
I think you may find that as the 12 volt battery that is used to supply the basic electrics of the vehicle is so small and poorly rated that things like the wipers combined with the headlight washers are adding a drain that reduces effective current for the HIDs.
Hi,

I don't think that can be a factor as the 12v system is rated to supply 2 x 10A for the heated seats plus probably another 10A for the heated rear window and yet another 15A for the dual cig lighters. Additionally, if not in ACC mode, the drive battery will be providing the power via floating charge on the 12v system.

Kind regards,
Mark
 
DrSlackBladder said:
Ozukus said:
I think you may find that as the 12 volt battery that is used to supply the basic electrics of the vehicle is so small and poorly rated that things like the wipers combined with the headlight washers are adding a drain that reduces effective current for the HIDs.

I assume you've replaced your bulbs and these aren't the standard fit, so would be worth noting if people that have retained manufacturer spec are having the same problem.

I had the wiper/washer/headlight problem and have not changed anything from standard.
My headlights were still STD from the factory as well. Never got to upgrade the lights. Will be a priority before the next long holiday trip, with additional lamps fitted with relays on the new car. The battery may supply current directly, but a poor connector in a loom will soon challenge the flow of current.
 
Osram Nightbreakers do help some, or HID main beam bulbs. I am still dithering about additional lights, I do not think they will survive for long in town.
 
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