Rust

[Mitsyphev]

Just discovered the first rust on my PHEV I was looking into the air intake under the number plate when I found it. Not a trace anywhere else on the car (2.5 years old) and this rust is hidden anyway, but I will have to keep an eye on it as I was planning on keeping this car for a long time.
Anybody else found any yet?

 

[Harald]

Just discovered the first rust on my PHEV I was looking into the air intake under the number plate when I found it. Not a trace anywhere else on the car (2.5 years old) and this rust is hidden anyway, but I will have to keep an eye on it as I was planning on keeping this car for a long time.
Anybody else found any yet?

Hi,

you should not run into any long term rust problems on this spot, when applying some thicker oil between the metal layers.

Applying is easiest with a medical injection using a thick injection needle.
The oil I used when doing this practice (quite some years ago) was Saw Chain oil, when I remember right?

You will only need a few milli-liter (or cm³) and can wipe off remaining oil on the outside as I guess that you neither want to spill on the floor nor on the coolers of your car.

Doing this job is best, when the car is above 20°C.

Best regards, Harald

 

[Mitsyphev]

Hello Harald.
Thanks for the advice. I have some chainsaw oil already, but I will need to find the syringe and some long rubber gloves (and wait for better weather!). Oil under pressure would definitely be needed to force it’s way between the plates and defy gravity.
I assume that a combination of inadequate rust proofing, the exposed location and the residual warmth from the cooler, when the car is stationary, have encouraged faster corrosion. I always expect rust on a car and it is interesting to see where it will appear first. It would be interesting also to know to what extent the first PHEVs are developing it. Mitsubishi have done a check for corrosion at every service, but obviously missed or don’t include this area in their checks. Next service, before I squirt oil into the gap, I will mention my discovery to them and see what they say.
Thanks.

 

[Harald]

...but I will need to find ... some long rubber gloves...

... before considering dirty hands, I would protect my eyes, when applying oil in an overhead position...
;-)

 

[NightPHEVer]

This is not a good thing to see on a 2.5 year old car. What sort of mileage have you done? Had a bit of this on my 18 year old Jeep Cherokee (zinc under the paint) on the sill seams but not noticed anything on my 10 year old Smart Fortwo (well yes, the outer panels are plastic but there's some steel underneath). Both Jeep and Smart garaged though. Is your PHEV garaged? Mine's been garaged for the last 2 years but isn't at the moment, which I'm none to comfortable with. I've noticed the chassis/suspension at the back of my PHEV underneath has more rusty bits around the edges than I'd like to see on a three year old car. Especially as I clean it and squirt WD40 on it. Mine's only done 13,000 miles.

The appearance of the folded steel and rust you show in your picture is reminiscent of British Leyland in the 1970s. I'm going to have a look at mine now...

...And, it's rather too much like yours in appearance for my liking. Really not something I'd expect to see on a car of this age. I too will have to take measures to prevent this from getting any worse. As is mentioned, the Mitsubishi dealer must have glanced in the other direction when they did the annual rust inspection!

 

[Mitsyphev]

Harald, yes, eye protection would be sensible when squirting oil around. It’s an awkward location to reach, and position a syringe, so who knows where the oil might go

Hi NightPHEVer. Thanks for your reply. The car was open-bay garaged for the first year, but now stands outside. It has done just under 18000 Miles. A friend of mine also has an Outlander PHEV (2 years old) and has discovered corrosion in the same place. Looks like there are going to be a lot of PHEVs with this issue. My nearest Mitsubishi garage is 30 miles away so I’m unlikely to make a trip just for this. Next service is in September so I will ask about it then.

Thanks.

 

[NightPHEVer]

Are there any diagrams available anywhere that show how to remove the front plastic panel in order to obtain better access to this rusty bit?

 

[Mitsyphev]

Hi. I have found a link to a workshop manual that has diagrams for bumper (fender) removal.

http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/outlander_iii/online/Service_Manual_2013/2014/index_M1.htm

At the manual index chose ‘42A Body (except phev)’
Next select ‘Loose Panels’
Next select ‘Loose Panel Removal and Installation’
Go down to the 7th blue arrow and select bumper.

I appreciate that this might be for the non PHEV version, but I couldn’t find a diagram for the PHEV. Surely there cannot be that much difference?

I am reluctant to start dismantling the car to reach the rusty part. I like Harald’s idea, but another solution might be to try an anti-rust treatment, like Waxoyl, that comes with an applicator/wand that would reach the through the air intake.

Best wishes.

 

[Harald]

... I like Harald’s idea, but another solution might be to try an anti-rust treatment, like Waxoyl, that comes with an applicator/wand that would reach the through the air intake.

Best wishes.

How about using a bit of a tube for prolonging whatever item you'd like to use?
Just feel free to invent yourself what works best...

If it works well, the forum will appreciate and ask: "Pls. send Pigs..."

, Harald

 

[ThudnBlundr]

If it works well, the forum will appreciate and ask: "Pls. send Pigs..."

, Harald

Is this what you wanted

 

[NightPHEVer]

Hmm, doesn't look as though front panel removal is especially straightforward then. I'd have thought a good slavaring with Waxoyl or similar would be the best thing to do - I'm just hoping that there aren't any more bits that can't be seen. I'll probably use a long artists paintbrush. Even a coating of grease would be better than rust.

As I intend to keep my PHEV for as long as possible I'm going to be squirting some Waxoyl into holes in chassis etc. as well. Doesn't look as though there's a lot of paint to me.

 

[Mitsyphev]

There is a product called XCP rust blocker. It comes in an aerosol can and has a flexible, 60cm lance with it. It is £18 a can and there should be enough to do at least the section inside the air intake. I might give it a go.

 

[EssexBoy]

Well spotted Mitsyphev - me as well. Similar age/mileage but mine I would describe as 'surface' rust. The location is about the worst possible place for some relatively thin steel. I will get around to applying some 'underseal' product this summer which stands a chance of not being washed away in a week or two. Not sure its fair to compare with 1970s Leyland NightPHEVer, a Meastro or Princess would already be on a second set of wings at 2.5 years !

 

[Mitsyphev]

Hello again. I’m pleased to say that the rusty cross-member has now been replaced by Mitsubishi under the warranty. I have attached a photo showing the, now black, cross-member. The job took 3 hours and required all the bumper (fender) and trim being removed. I appreciate that this part may go the same way as the first and also that there may be other, undiscovered, parts of the chasis which are already showing signs of corrosion.

While the work was being done two recalls were also dealt with. The first was the ECU relay and the second was to do with door locks. I did a search on the web and found that the lock recall is to do with the operation of the locks in hot weather.

 

[twosout]

...but I will need to find ... some long rubber gloves...

... before considering dirty hands, I would protect my eyes, when applying oil in an overhead position...
;-)

... and keep your mouth closed!

 

[Guinness]

Oddly enough, I noted rust pitting the other day on the 'stainless steel' bumper protection plate. The car had them fitted from new when I collected the car in February 2017....

 

[Mitsyphev]

Hi. Is it surface contamination from something like iron filings? Stainless steel shouldn’t rust but can get blemishes from surface contamination. The protection plate should be scratch resistant so you could try rubbing the rust with something like a plastic pan scrubber to see if it is superficial. If it isn’t then it’s a warranty claim. Let us know what you find.

 

[Woodman411]

Hi. Is it surface contamination from something like iron filings? Stainless steel shouldn’t rust but can get blemishes from surface contamination. The protection plate should be scratch resistant so you could try rubbing the rust with something like a plastic pan scrubber to see if it is superficial. If it isn’t then it’s a warranty claim. Let us know what you find.

A warranty claim on a $70 add-on accessory that has been exposed to the elements for 2 or so years? Doubt it. The good news: it's only $70 (at least in the US): https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-REAR-BUMPER-PROTECTOR-MITSUBISHI-OUTLANDER-MZ574707EX-16-17-18-19-NICE/283273544988?fits=Model%3AOutlander%7CMake%3AMitsubishi&epid=1239480748&hash=item41f46b451c:gHMAAOSw15Vbbg9F:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!11203!US!-1:rk:1f:0

 

[Mitsyphev]

Luckily, In the UK, the warranty for Mitsubishi fitted accessories on a new car is 3 years/62500 miles.

 

[Guinness]

Right, well I've given it a good clean with a non-stick pan scrubber and a drop of washing-up liquid. It as just about removed the rust apart from one of the bigger spots. I'll see what it looks like in a week and report back.