Mickmccroad
Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2017
- Messages
- 17
Hello everyone
I will present my project which is almost finished
My vehicle: outlander phev of 2014. original electric range given for 50kms.
12kwh battery but we can not empty below 30% [20% if we block the start of the engine] to always have a reserve for 2 electric motors that ensures the 4-wheel drive and the total power accumulate between the thermal if necessary and the electric. So a useful capacity of 8.4kwh of origin with a SOH at 100%
Today with 100,000 km, I turn about 85% of SOH is a real useful capacity of 7kwh and autonomy of 40kms
My use of this vehicle which is a mixture of professional and private very often consists of a journey of 10 20 or 30 kms with a variable downtime and then again 10 20 or 30 kms, etc ....
In 16A the cooldown is 3h with a 100% SOH. today it is more than 2h30 2:40.
The goal is to be able to recharge at each stop the battery as I had a catch everywhere or I stop.
Purchase:
2 lithium ion batteries in 48v 150ah each is 7kwh. 13S of prismatic cell. Integrated BMS. Permissible output amperage continuously 150A but recommended 100A.
Each one is loaded in 15A so in 10H if completely emptied.
1 inverter 48v 230v 6000w continuous. 16mm2 power cables for each battery
The principle. the batteries powers the converter that supplied from 230V to CRO 16A [real 14.5A] that I integrated into the car
This CRO has been plugged into the charging socket harness. everything passes via 2 relays. the first is the little yellow and blue which cuts the connection of the 2 communication wires and a relay of power in 32A not visible on the photos which cuts the phase and neutral of the catch. all this controlled by a wireless remote control like garage or gate remote control. We run with an amperage of 85A total or 42.5A per battery.
In use: if everything is cut, you can connect the charging cable as usual and nothing changes. If you press the button on the remote control, both relays close. the vehicle is completely disconnected and so if you plug a plug, it happens absolutely nothing. and the load rotates from the integrated CRO and drawing from the batteries
In use with its useful 14kwh, counting the loss of the converter and the built-in charger of the car, one arrives at a yield of 80% measured.
in real life so I can injected 11.2kwh into the main battery.
So I can spend twice 20% to 100%. In real life to avoid the deep discharge of the 2 batteries, I limit myself more than 2 times from 30% to 100% or 9.8kwh extract of 2 batteries which corresponds to 87% of use. I pass if the downtime leaves the charger 40kms autonomy to 100kms.
To know the level of charge, a simple small screen that displays either the voltage or the capacity in%, calculated according to the voltage. not very accurate but that's enough for me. in the photo we see by the text but it works well.
I also add to the left another converter that I already had 12V and so it is connected to the 12V battery of origin. This one allows me to go out 3000W but for the converter 300V / 12V of the car and the low capacity of the battery of origin I limit myself to 1500W.
The left electrical panel corresponds to the 12V converter. from left to right, differential circuit breaker, then 16A circuit breaker, dual inverter for phase and neutral that can power the 2 chargers from the external outlet or from the 12V converter [option not used in normal times because of loss of efficiency. but can be useful if used in troubleshooting to power the house in case of a long power outage, while prohibiting the return of current on the male plug meme in case of mishandling, then the last 2 circuit breakers each correspond to a charger. which allows me according to the charging time at my disposal to turn on 1 or 2.
Then the 2nd table corresponds to the 48V converter, with first the differential circuit breaker then the circuit breaker 16A CRO and a circuit breaker 16A for 2 taken.
I have also installed small temperature probes and an amp for the original subwoofer because I have more original station nor am amp. the original post for many outlander user PHEV is the default of the vehicle ...
I still have to install on the roof my 2 solar panels of 100W each. the MPPT converter is already in place and plugged in and I have already done loads with but laying the sensors on the roof just for testing
Cooling question: I still have 2 fans to install but not yet received to limit the heat in summer. those if will be gainer with evacuation of the air under the car the summer and in the car the winter. the purpose in winter is to take advantage of this thermal energy to increase the temperature in the car at a standstill and in summer to evacuate the heat outside under the car and therefore not to bring less warm air out and therefore to limit the temperature in the car park in full sun.
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I will present my project which is almost finished
My vehicle: outlander phev of 2014. original electric range given for 50kms.
12kwh battery but we can not empty below 30% [20% if we block the start of the engine] to always have a reserve for 2 electric motors that ensures the 4-wheel drive and the total power accumulate between the thermal if necessary and the electric. So a useful capacity of 8.4kwh of origin with a SOH at 100%
Today with 100,000 km, I turn about 85% of SOH is a real useful capacity of 7kwh and autonomy of 40kms
My use of this vehicle which is a mixture of professional and private very often consists of a journey of 10 20 or 30 kms with a variable downtime and then again 10 20 or 30 kms, etc ....
In 16A the cooldown is 3h with a 100% SOH. today it is more than 2h30 2:40.
The goal is to be able to recharge at each stop the battery as I had a catch everywhere or I stop.
Purchase:
2 lithium ion batteries in 48v 150ah each is 7kwh. 13S of prismatic cell. Integrated BMS. Permissible output amperage continuously 150A but recommended 100A.
Each one is loaded in 15A so in 10H if completely emptied.
1 inverter 48v 230v 6000w continuous. 16mm2 power cables for each battery
The principle. the batteries powers the converter that supplied from 230V to CRO 16A [real 14.5A] that I integrated into the car
This CRO has been plugged into the charging socket harness. everything passes via 2 relays. the first is the little yellow and blue which cuts the connection of the 2 communication wires and a relay of power in 32A not visible on the photos which cuts the phase and neutral of the catch. all this controlled by a wireless remote control like garage or gate remote control. We run with an amperage of 85A total or 42.5A per battery.
In use: if everything is cut, you can connect the charging cable as usual and nothing changes. If you press the button on the remote control, both relays close. the vehicle is completely disconnected and so if you plug a plug, it happens absolutely nothing. and the load rotates from the integrated CRO and drawing from the batteries
In use with its useful 14kwh, counting the loss of the converter and the built-in charger of the car, one arrives at a yield of 80% measured.
in real life so I can injected 11.2kwh into the main battery.
So I can spend twice 20% to 100%. In real life to avoid the deep discharge of the 2 batteries, I limit myself more than 2 times from 30% to 100% or 9.8kwh extract of 2 batteries which corresponds to 87% of use. I pass if the downtime leaves the charger 40kms autonomy to 100kms.
To know the level of charge, a simple small screen that displays either the voltage or the capacity in%, calculated according to the voltage. not very accurate but that's enough for me. in the photo we see by the text but it works well.
I also add to the left another converter that I already had 12V and so it is connected to the 12V battery of origin. This one allows me to go out 3000W but for the converter 300V / 12V of the car and the low capacity of the battery of origin I limit myself to 1500W.
The left electrical panel corresponds to the 12V converter. from left to right, differential circuit breaker, then 16A circuit breaker, dual inverter for phase and neutral that can power the 2 chargers from the external outlet or from the 12V converter [option not used in normal times because of loss of efficiency. but can be useful if used in troubleshooting to power the house in case of a long power outage, while prohibiting the return of current on the male plug meme in case of mishandling, then the last 2 circuit breakers each correspond to a charger. which allows me according to the charging time at my disposal to turn on 1 or 2.
Then the 2nd table corresponds to the 48V converter, with first the differential circuit breaker then the circuit breaker 16A CRO and a circuit breaker 16A for 2 taken.
I have also installed small temperature probes and an amp for the original subwoofer because I have more original station nor am amp. the original post for many outlander user PHEV is the default of the vehicle ...
I still have to install on the roof my 2 solar panels of 100W each. the MPPT converter is already in place and plugged in and I have already done loads with but laying the sensors on the roof just for testing
Cooling question: I still have 2 fans to install but not yet received to limit the heat in summer. those if will be gainer with evacuation of the air under the car the summer and in the car the winter. the purpose in winter is to take advantage of this thermal energy to increase the temperature in the car at a standstill and in summer to evacuate the heat outside under the car and therefore not to bring less warm air out and therefore to limit the temperature in the car park in full sun.
top
