Lindqvist method : DIY BMU Battery Reset

[Mitch]

Maybe my english is not the best, but you don't know what a driver is doing

And, only for your info, it is not depending on the MUT version.

 

[obiuquido144]

The custom driver is just a passthrough "translator" that allows the use of the cheaper Toyota J2534 OBD cable with the MUT.

In other news I know of one car where the estimated capacity was actually 2Ah higher than the DBCAM measured capacity and the reset didn't deliver any range extension at all. So in some cases the BMU estimates are actually "working well" which is the opposite of what everyone would expect these days
"Your mileage after Lindqvist may vary."

 

[MadTechNutter]

I would not even use a 3S Lipo (I see the DC/DC charger push 14.7v ... this will fry a 3S Lipo relative quickly)

As I mentioned above it was essential that a 5A fuse was used and contact immediately lifted when charge commenced, but yes this is definitely not a recommended procedure and was in my case for testing purposes only.

Actually, nothing mentioned in this thread would be recommended, period

 

[MadTechNutter]

Maybe my english is not the best, but you don't know what a driver is doing

And, only for your info, it is not depending on the MUT version.

What? ...are you having me on ?

This is what YOU posted:

use the old version 18091

and another poster:

Versions PRE18121 and PRE19031 don't work. PRE18091 works.
Procedure: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=38503#p38503
There are two items "1. Control information reset" and "2. BATT.capa. estimated info. reset".
Item 2 alone results in 40Ah SOH, 60 days battery age, AC/DC 0Ah and Usage 0Ah.

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4533&start=40

 

[elm70]

I would not even use a 3S Lipo (I see the DC/DC charger push 14.7v ... this will fry a 3S Lipo relative quickly)

As I mentioned above it was essential that a 5A fuse was used and contact immediately lifted when charge commenced, but yes this is definitely not a recommended procedure and was in my case for testing purposes only.

Actually, nothing mentioned in this thread would be recommended, period

Ok ... if it was for a short time ... yes it is relative safe ...5A charge in a Lipo ... I bet you would need to use a relative high capacity battery at around 50% SOC ...anyhow ... details ...

About that nothing mention here is recommended ... this is questionable.

I think there is evidence that the BMU is pessimistic about battery SOH
I'm still not convinced that DBCAM is the perfect solution (maybe if the charging process is at 6A or even less .. maybe) .. since anyhow the BMU firmware is "strange"

So ... reset the BMU is looking a "decent" option for increase EV usability ... but ... it needs to be done in "aware way"

The original Lindqvist Method, or the short version ... don't have any risk at all ... it is just about disconnecting the 12v battery

Clearly, the BMU reset via MUT is even better .. but this require download "pirate" software from the net, questionable drivers .. etc etc ... so quite some time for prepare a PC and few dollars for hardware and driver license ... in my case I did find easier to use the Lindqvist Method ... if I would have fail .. possibly I would have consider the MUT approach ...

Else ... it is also possible to ask "nicely" to a Mitsubishi authorized service to make a BMU reset .... I'm sure some would be open to the customer requests

 

[Mitch]

Maybe my english is not the best, but you don't know what a driver is doing

And, only for your info, it is not depending on the MUT version.

What? ...are you having me on ?

This is what YOU posted:

use the old version 18091

and another poster:

Versions PRE18121 and PRE19031 don't work. PRE18091 works.
Procedure: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=38503#p38503
There are two items "1. Control information reset" and "2. BATT.capa. estimated info. reset".
Item 2 alone results in 40Ah SOH, 60 days battery age, AC/DC 0Ah and Usage 0Ah.

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4533&start=40

Because PRE are not finale versions

 

[michael8554]

For MadTechNutter:

With a charged aux battery (not a discharged one at 7 volts), I put a digital meter in series and got brief 6 amp readings and one brief 18 amp reading on connecting.

So no aussie car has worked with the Lindqvist method?

That's because you have to disconnect the positive lead in the southern hemisphere......

Michael

 

[MadTechNutter]

...arrrgg, I must be jinxed :evil:

After waiting so long, the Ebay seller tells me that my cable has been lost in the Post and has refunded the $20.

Mitsu ppl being so open to do a BMU reset for me here in Australia?

I doubt the local dealer has ever seen a PHEV before and know what a BMU is. Only 1200 were sold in Australia. I live in a small town 600 km from the next big city and the only way to ask here nicely is hand over a wad of cash :|
I see regularly Ferraris and Lambos but the only time I ever saw a PHEV was when I got mine delivered

... and in the short time I own it, quite a few strangers have asked me already when I go to my car: "What is a fev?"
So I am already more famous than a Ferrari owner :mrgreen:

 

[elm70]

About the D method ...

I was thinking .. can be simulated a low voltage 12v battery with a big capacitor .. like a super cap ?

I think this can be easily put down in natural way to around 8v (or whatever is needed) .. without any side effect.

Possibly a relative expensive way ... possibly is cheaper to source an old 2v battery

Anyhow ... I still did not fully read/analyzed the D method .. I guess is a Lindqvist variation, which use a low 12V battery .. but still it need the tricky charging and battery disconnect ...

Per Andy from YouTube the D method should work in every PHEV :shock: :roll:

 

[elm70]

...arrrgg, I must be jinxed :evil:

After waiting so long, the Ebay seller tells me that my cable has been lost in the Post and has refunded the $20.

Mitsu ppl being so open to do a BMU reset for me here in Australia?

I doubt the local dealer has ever seen a PHEV before and know what a BMU is. Only 1200 were sold in Australia. I live in a small town 600 km from the next big city and the only way to ask here nicely is hand over a wad of cash :|
I see regularly Ferraris and Lambos but the only time I ever saw a PHEV was when I got mine delivered

... and in the short time I own it, quite a few strangers have asked me already when I go to my car: "What is a fev?"
So I am already more famous than a Ferrari owner :mrgreen:

Also LaFerrari is a "fev" :mrgreen: ... but it is missing the EV mode ... like the first Outlander PHEV :ugeek:

 

[MadTechNutter]

About the D method ...

I was thinking .. can be simulated a low voltage 12v battery with a big capacitor .. like a super cap ?

I think this can be easily put down in natural way to around 8v (or whatever is needed) .. without any side effect.

Good idea but I am jinxed again.
I have two 500 Farad super caps here but they are 2.7V each so only good for 5.4V.
Why didn't I order 3 back then? :slap_on_the_head:

Will take at least three weeks to get more from China.

 

[Lon12]

Bit astonished people are so quiet about this here.

Could anybody who intends to do this procedure please read with the watchdog the cell voltage when their drive battery shows 'empty' before the procedure and the empty voltage value after a successful reset?

...and of course their trip odometer before and after, not the displayed EV range but the actual kms driven from fully charged in EV mode until the ICE kicks in with light foot driving and then read the voltage on the watchdog, once stopped at a safe location of course.
Please voltages only, no % or Ah.
Thank you

If this really significantly increases the range on older batteries then I can only imagine this is possible by deeper discharge.
If the true SoC goes down to 20%, I have absolutely no concern as this will not degrade the battery and should still have enough reserve for any mishaps.
It seem obvious that the 'improvement" will degrade over time as this seems to be the way Mitsubishi had it designed but then I would actually consider building in a Reset button to discharge over a small resistor the capacitor for the SRAM that stores the BMU data after I disconnect the 12V battery.
We do this the whole time to clear the CMOS for the BIOS in Personal Computers.
The resistor is important in case the reset button is accidentally pressed with 12V battery or charger connected. 470Ω -1KΩ should be OK and then hold the button for a 10 seconds.

What I find a bit questionable is why the battery has to stay disconnected while it is charging after the BMU data is obviously erased.

Finally had a chance to run the battery down with the App HVAC after the reset.
My cell voltage is now 3.664 (2.3 kWh) when it shut the heater off. Was 3.794 (2.0 kWh) before the reset. (20.3%)

 

[elm70]

I did update page 1 with the D method ...

 

[elm70]

Up . Up ...

... everybody focus on D method ... while the original method and its short variation get dusted away :shock:

 

[elm70]

Update on my PHEV SOH :

320km or 25 days after and ~10 full charge (212Ah charged)

SOH dropped to 37.4 (5x 0.1Ah drop , after 1st charge I got 37.9Ah ..so possibly 0.1Ah drop already on 1st charge)

What I see, is that SOH drop after every battery full charge (almost all) .. if I partially charge the PHEV I don't get the SOH drop

Anyhow, per my calculation based on SOC changes after a 2h rest, my PHEV real SOH should be around 34.7Ah, so it is normal that SOH drop quickly now, since BMU can see that SOC and SOH are not matching at each charge

Still .. this allow me to use my PHEV battery down to real 25% SOC, so I can get easily over 45km EV range something almost impossible before.

Once the battery will go below 36Ah ... I will repeat the BMU reset procedure from page 1

I expect my PHEV should manage to keep above 36Ah for at least 5 months ... so I forecast 2 reset a year

 

[elm70]

...

 

[mellwaters100]

Update on my PHEV SOH :

320km or 25 days after and ~10 full charge (212Ah charged)

SOH dropped to 37.4 (5x 0.1Ah drop , after 1st charge I got 37.9Ah ..so possibly 0.1Ah drop already on 1st charge)

As a comparison, reset mine 2 weeks ago, and here are the rate cards:

Aug 13: 170,999km - 38.0Ah
Aug 14: 171,009km - 37.9Ah
Aug 14: 171,109km - 37.8Ah
Aug 15: 171,326km - 37.7Ah
Aug 16: 171,499km - 37.6Ah
Aug 18: 171,838km - 37.5Ah
Aug 21: 172,424km - 37.4Ah

By 21st, had a total of 96Ah AC charge and 84Ah DC fast charge. I can't recall when each drop occurred, but I do know one of them was when I switched on after getting back to the car park in town, so it hadn't been on charge. Anyway, I reckon I am getting about another 6 to 7 Ah extra usage out of the battery (about 10km) - so pretty pleased!

 

[MadTechNutter]

2 weeks after reset:
37.6Ah, always very slow charge 5.3A, not always fully charged which is my intention but every day on the charger.
About 500km driven in EV mode, with exception of a few 5second bursts flooring the pedal for fun.

 

[VillageIdiotDan]

Thanks for everybodies posts. I'm torn as to whether to do this. I plan to possess my Outlander for a long time so don't want to damage the battery yet equally crave additional range (I am maybe 10km short each day with my work drive).

I think I will rest on luck; if the dealer will reset the BMS for me for free when I am in there for warrenty work then I will, if not i'll leave it.

 

[iloveyourmum]

Hi all,

After some deliberation, I decided to give this a go... I tried the original method a couple of times but battery still sat stubbornly on 34.4Ah (2014 plate with 140 000km, not bad), and I must have tried the short method a good 20 times - but no luck. I could hear the final relay on the car (which sounds like it is near the fuse box under the bonnet) clicking in before the charge started.

So I dug out an old 12v battery and managed to get enough charge in it to try the D method. Took a few goes to get the voltage right, but then all went well, display showed a ton of error messages and SoH at 40Ah. Charged full and today got an extra 5+km out of the battery, final cell voltage at 0% was 3.74V average and 0.013V max diff so quite reassured that I wasn't dangerously low.

I'll keep an eye on SoH and repeat in a few months most likely.

Thanks all!