Lindqvist method : DIY BMU Battery Reset

[fresh-milk]

I want to share my experiences with used 2016 model with 246000 km on the meter. Battery was flat when bought from dealer so the estimated range was a question mark at the time of purchase. First of all I have owned this car only few days now and charged it only once.

*After first full charge over night the estimated range was only 20 km in around 0 temperatures in Celcius.
*We drove the car around normally short trips (total 30 km perhaps). the battery was around 40% (8 km range)
*I have Kingbolen Ediag OBD2 scanner which has quite good selection of functions. I used the app to reset BMU (battery management unit) control unit.
*Battery level went instantly up to around 70% but the range remained at 8 km. Though was that oh great, now the system is really messed up.
*Well continued to drive and tried to empty the battery as much as possible and the range stayed 2 km (50% battery level) a long time. However the EV driving continued until the battery level was very low. Did not measure exact km but around 10-15 km at least.
*When the battery was very low. Opened the Ediag app and reset BMU control unit again and also reset the estimated range from the app this time as well. It did mention something about differences between ECU and BMU might occur.
*Then put it to charge overnight.
*In the morning the Mitsubishi remote control app (wifi) showed around 60% charge level and 15h charging time remaining.
*Now few hours later the time remining is 14h30min.
*Now I wait (If I can) until the charging is fully completed and see the results.

I believe the car has now some sort of calibration charging going on but it is just a guess.

We have kids to drive around so if this is taking more than 24h from now I might need to unplug and interrupt the charging.

I was ready to try the Lindqvist method but I wanted to try the OBD2 scanner first as I happen to have it. The Ediag APP has so many reset options and see the cell voltages and other service functions as well. Also the cars WiFi password is visible from the APP.

I bought an ex-rental 2014 PHEV with 230,000 kms and the EV range was about 25kms. I did a basic reset (plugged in charing, disconnect auxiliary battery, unplug charging, reconnect auxiliary battery) and it gave me an extra 5kms range to 30kms which I was happy with.

Issues with the auxiliary battery so I removed it completely to trickle charge overnight. Car plugged in overnight for EV charging. Next morning unplugged charging and took an hour to clean the trunk before installing the auxiliary battery (trunk was filthy).

Now the range guesstimator goes up as high as 60kms but real world mileage is ~46kms replicated over several days of driving. I always reset trip computer after full charge overnight to compare the guess vs real world. This is city driving, flat roads with no AC and approx 50-60km/h speed.

If miles is your language, just think of this as potentially doubling your EV mileage.

Do I know what exactly caused my range to double vs the recommended 10sec battery rest? Nope but my real world range went from 25kms to 47kms, which covers me for my daily commute.

But you can try these steps and see if it works for you:

1. Plug car in for charing
2. Disconnect the auxiliary battery
   • may as well remove completely and trickle charge
3. Leave overnight
4. In the morning, unplug EV charging
   • Remember to open the trunk or a door first
   • Otherwise need emergency key to open door, climb into the trunk for emergency release
   • Dont ask how I know
5. Leave for an hour
   • Car will be dead with no electricity
6. Install the auxiliary battery
   • My car alarm went off once reconnected so be ready with your fob
   • I also got a bunch of service warnings which went away after getting into READY mode
7. Check the range guesstimator and see what your real world range is

Would be interested to see if it was dumb luck for me or if you can replicate.

 

[yardbird]

2014 model is different than 2017/2018 model for reset batteries. My 2018 PHEV (USA model) never work for reset.

 

[PHEV07]

2014 model is different than 2017/2018 model for reset batteries. My 2018 PHEV (USA model) never work for reset.

Tried this procedure on my 2018 and it did seem to reset the range but by the next charge it went lower again. To about 40 Kms on full charge, down from 45-50 when new

Never did try that on my 2022 that I trade up to in Sep 2021. I did lose some range after 2 1/2 years, from 60kms per charge down to 50kms per charge but traded thd 2022 to a 2024 GT in Apr 2024.

With my 2024 Driving in ECO and BO, city driving and no A/C I am able to drive 95 -100 kms per full charge. Very impressive for a 20kWh Battery.

 

[yardbird]

Tried this procedure on my 2018 and it did seem to reset the range but by the next charge it went lower again. To about 40 Kms on full charge, down from 45-50 when new

Never did try that on my 2022 that I trade up to in Sep 2021. I did lose some range after 2 1/2 years, from 60kms per charge down to 50kms per charge but traded thd 2022 to a 2024 GT in Apr 2024.

With my 2024 Driving in ECO and BO, city driving and no A/C I am able to drive 95 -100 kms per full charge. Very impressive for a 20kWh Battery.

The reset only worked for one time event, to about 17-18 EV miles (versus 21 miles when new in 2018). after 2nd recharge, it went back to 12 miles (with uses of either AC or heat). I think Mitsubishi calibrated the EV batteries differently for USA models versus other countries for some reasons?

 

[fresh-milk]

For my 2014 PHEV I went from 25kms, up to 60kms (GoM) and now reliably stabilised to 45kms on actual mileage.

The GoM reports about 47-50km but the trip odometer consistently shows 45kms. And I reset Trip A odd every drive on an overnight charge to track it.

I guess 2018 onward models have different BMS?

 

[Michael Graham]

Mine is a '19 SEL - acquired as new in late '20. Asked dealer to add parking sensors at time of purchase - which required a new ECU. (The proximity alarm is annoying, but can mute. In hindsight, it was worth it because of limited garage space.) This is preamble for how I have faired with drive battery capacity resets. A couple of years back, I tried, to no apparent success, to use the abbreviated Lindquist method. Then, needed something done under warranty at another dealership. (Miscellaneous hackery /slackery from the selling dealership's sensor install left the reverse light wiring harness unsecured and it came unplugged.) Either the tech coincidentally reset the BMU by simply just exploring his MUT-II software while connected to mine or he did it just to be kind. The "dog" later revealed all of my preparatory attempts as separate, consecutive, resets.

Recently, purchased the dongle by TopScan /TopDon from Amazon (~60USD). I should also mention that I had, just prior, upgraded the auxiliary battery to a LiFePO4 unit that shipped from China via an eBay seller. The TopScan interface needs refining, but I was able to reset both BMU & ECU. It successfully rewound the capacity clock back to 40 Ah. (The maintenance reminder reset problem has yet to fully resolve, however. I settled for the "Other" mode.)

 

[yardbird]

Mine is a '19 SEL - acquired as new in late '20. Asked dealer to add parking sensors at time of purchase - which required a new ECU. (The proximity alarm is annoying, but can mute. In hindsight, it was worth it because of limited garage space.) This is preamble for how I have faired with drive battery capacity resets. A couple of years back, I tried, to no apparent success, to use the abbreviated Lindquist method. Then, needed something done under warranty at another dealership. (Miscellaneous hackery /slackery from the selling dealership's sensor install left the reverse light wiring harness unsecured and it came unplugged.) Either the tech coincidentally reset the BMU by simply just exploring his MUT-II software while connected to mine or he did it just to be kind. The "dog" later revealed all of my preparatory attempts as separate, consecutive, resets.

Recently, purchased the dongle by TopScan /TopDon from Amazon (~60USD). I should also mention that I had, just prior, upgraded the auxiliary battery to a LiFePO4 unit that shipped from China via an eBay seller. The TopScan interface needs refining, but I was able to reset both BMU & ECU. It successfully rewound the capacity clock back to 40 Ah. (The maintenance reminder reset problem has yet to fully resolve, however. I settled for the "Other" mode.)

how is you LiFePO4 12v battery working? Mine is working fine for more than 1.5 year going. Remember that you would need a different home charger for that LiFePO4 battery.

 

[Michael Graham]

how is you LiFePO4 12v battery working? Mine is working fine for more than 1.5 year going. Remember that you would need a different home charger for that LiFePO4 battery.

Yeah, so far, good. Two or three years ago, I upgraded for '14 Accord Hybrid. No problems. Before, if I let it sit without starting for four days, I would need to jump or charge the lead acid. That replacement I got from Amazon, but the brand went out of business after their product quality started slipping.

The one from China has, thus far, proven robust. It also has a handy screen on top. The specs fit the space, but needed adjustable hold down bar (from Amazon). Also, it comes with copper (or brass?) collars as adapters for the posts. The positive was snug, but negative was a bit loose - needed a little finessing.

 

[Michael Graham]

Yeah, so far, good. Two or three years ago, I upgraded for '14 Accord Hybrid. No problems. Before, if I let it sit without starting for four days, I would need to jump or charge the lead acid. That replacement I got from Amazon, but the brand went out of business after their product quality started slipping.

The one from China has, thus far, proven robust. It also has a handy screen on top. The specs fit the space, but needed adjustable hold down bar (from Amazon). Also, it comes with copper (or brass?) collars as adapters for the posts. The positive was snug, but negative was a bit loose - needed a little finessing.

P.S. Am aware that cannot use traditional lead acid charger. However, have not yet needed to look into special LiFePO4 charger because, fortunately, I have had no issues with either unit.

 

[yardbird]

Yeah, so far, good. Two or three years ago, I upgraded for '14 Accord Hybrid. No problems. Before, if I let it sit without starting for four days, I would need to jump or charge the lead acid. That replacement I got from Amazon, but the brand went out of business after their product quality started slipping.

The one from China has, thus far, proven robust. It also has a handy screen on top. The specs fit the space, but needed adjustable hold down bar (from Amazon). Also, it comes with copper (or brass?) collars as adapters for the posts. The positive was snug, but negative was a bit loose - needed a little finessing.

If you don't mind, please post the web site where you bought it, I like the screen with readings.

 

[yardbird]

P.S. Am aware that cannot use traditional lead acid charger. However, have not yet needed to look into special LiFePO4 charger because, fortunately, I have had no issues with either unit.

https://www.myoutlanderphev.com/threads/12-volt-lithium-battery-and-accessory-mode.6286/#post-64231

I got this charger to charge the LiFePO4 battery every few months or so.

 

[Michael Graham]

If you don't mind, please post the web site where you bought it, I like the screen with readings.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/lightfantasy2013

 

[Michael Graham]

https://www.myoutlanderphev.com/threads/12-volt-lithium-battery-and-accessory-mode.6286/#post-64231

I got this charger to charge the LiFePO4 battery every few months or so.

The link is to a post on this forum site. Scanned briefly, but only gleaned a reference to using the charger. I am sure that I could find one on Amazon or eBay if necessary. What I believe I know is that, if left sitting or used on strictly EV mode for extended periods (neither recommended), the drive battery will 'top up' the auxiliary battery once per day after the vehicle's pre-programmed self-check. The caveat for that is to not leave vehicle idle to repeat this routine for so long that the drive battery also drains to its 30% reserve limit. Also, if needed, the auxiliary battery can be assisted by a jump pack. Had to do it once. Vehicle must not be plugged in to charge the drive battery while attempting! Though the manual instructs on the jumpstart process, I used the hood latch hook release lever for the negative connection - which I learned from YouTube. (Otherwise, the cables on the boost pack would have had to stretch awkwardly to reach the connection points.) However, I am leery of repeating the process now that the LiFePO4 unit is installed. If such an occasion arose, and if I could still access the cargo space, I first would swap back in the (freshly charged) old lead acid unit. Hopefully, that scenario will remain a thought exercise. My understanding is that LiFePO4 unit is programmed with a failsafe that protects it from discharging past a minimum limit. So, barring any unique sequence of unfortunate events, all will maintain normal operating functionality.