ERG (?) valve replacement? Engine not charging battery?

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wormwood

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2022
Messages
6
I recently added petrol to 2014 outlander after running around on engine for a few weeks (to overcome fuel line problems) as always try to run on battery and then eventually need to burn fuel to get room in tank. After filling up I had to go up a steep hill so pressed Charge button and accelerator. At about 40mph car developed a shudder and EV service message came on. My garage diagnosed various faults including spark plugs and coil. They replaced these and reset codes, Car runs OK on battery but garage tell me that petrol engine not charging as needs ERG replacement. Engine warning light on bottom of round dial is permanently lit. As ERG valve costs upwards of £440 (+VAT) and garage unsure of labour time, I'm a bit worried about this.
Any ideas please?
 
Are you referring to the Exhaust Gas Return (EGR) valve?

It is possible to clean them, but it is an elaborate job and may require the use of a scan tool to reset the ECU.

https://www.dubizzle.com/blog/cars/clean-egr-valve/

Note that driving the car with a faulty EGR valve can lead to damage to other components (see above for examples).
Thanks Andy, Yes it must be EGR ( dyslexia rules ) Thanks for the link. Seems a bit odd that its become a problem because I hardly ever use it on petrol and its only done about 25K miles in almost 10 years. Valve doesn't look like worth £500, but then everything is expensive on these vehicles these days . Garage tell me it has to be replaced or engine won't charge car. Trouble is its so hilly here in Devon that a full battery charge won't get me other than very local without a bit of engine on "Save" or on "Charge" at the bottom of one of the steep hills.
 
On a previous car, the valve was only worth fifty pounds UK, but the service cost approximately five hundred.

That was because the location of the valve required the engine to be moved to perform the replacement. (Opel Corsa Beta).

Sometimes the valves just stick, and at the time, people suggested that I just pound on the valve body with a hammer. Unfortunately, the location meant that I could not get to the thing.

It's probably worth a visual inspection of the wiring, in case it's the wires that are damaged, rather than the valve itself.
 
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