Heating not working

tug · Nov 6, 2022

Hi. I have an VRX 2, registered 2014. I had the starter battery replaced at the Mitsubishi dealership about two months ago and since then I noticed that the heating wasn't working.

If I run the car on SAVE or CHARGE then it will eventually generate some heat, but not when I put it at a normal temperature. The aircon seems to be working ok and I'm not getting any other warning lights.

I contacted the dealership to see whether the battery replacement could have caused this, e.g. something was reset or needed resetting afterwards, but I got a rather disinterested 'no'.

I'm taking it to our local small garage soon to have it scanned but I wondered whether anyone here had any ideas?

Any thoughts?

DibbyDibbyDJ · Nov 7, 2022

Get your garage to check the coolant filter in the heater hose is not blocked with sediment. This is a very common cause with heating problems on the PHEV

kiss · Nov 9, 2022

Hi
Looks like the filter is blocked but needs to flush out the system but many reasons is why not to heat just the little help here: https://carhoodsecrects.com/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-heating-problem-without-ptc-heater/

tug · Nov 18, 2022

Thanks for the replies. Since I posted I had the fault scanned and it came up with an 'electric water pump' malfunction code. We reset it but the heating still didn't work and the fault code came back again.

The garage, which isn't familiar with the car or EVs, asked whether my 2014 VRX has 2 separate heating systems, i.e. one which runs when the car is running off the EV battery, and one which runs off the combustion engine. The reason for this question is that the heating only works when the petrol engine is engaged, e.g. when I active SAVE or CHARGE, and not when the car is running off the EV battery. I've tried looking online for an answer and in the manual but can't find a definitive answer.

It still puzzles me that the fault only occurred after the car had a new starter battery installed. Was that just a co-incidence??

Any thoughts?

MrPastry · Nov 19, 2022

Hi.

Maybe a co-incidence.

I think all models except the basic "3h" have an electric cabin heater.
If you have cabin heating when the engine is running & no heat when in EV mode, I'd check the pump, but before you go any further, firstly make sure that there's not air in the pipework around the electric pump. The pump will get really noisy is it is running dry.

The small electric water pump mounted on the firewall behind the engine.
This recirculates the water when the engine is not running. These pumps do fail.
As stated previously, the gauze filter is prone to getting blocked. This is hidden inside the pipe above the pump.
If the gauze filter is completely blocked, you won't get any cabin heat.

Then there is a water bypass valve. This is mounted on the rear of the engine. These too can fail.

The electric water heater is under the floor beneath the passenger seat.

Lots of useful information here:
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/outlander_iii/online/Service_Manual_2013/2016/index_M1.htm

And here:
https://www.richi.uk/p/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-faq.html#phevfaqQ

littlescrote · Nov 21, 2022

^^^^ great post ^^^^

Bruises · Nov 6, 2023

Thanks for the drawings, really helps me understand what to look for in the car.
I started earlier today by cleaning the in-tube filter, but that wasn’t really dirty to begin with. After placing the filter back, I opened the bleeder plug, but even after pinching the hoses a couple of times, not coolant came out. Come to think of it, I haven’t checked the coolant level in the EV circuit, assuming ICE and EV are fed out of the same container
So next three things to look at are
-EV coolant level
-4way valve
-coolant pump (I did notice a vibration in the hose between coolant pump and heating unit but am not sure whether the pump is blocked or running)

Do I have to bleed the entire coolant system when removing the pump and/or 4way valve? Or can they be removed without spilling too much coolant?

brownted · Nov 26, 2023

Hello bruises
I have heating from electric but not from my ICE.
I have cleaned the filter (not a lot of debris there) and bled the pipe attached .
I am about to dismantle the 4 way valve but have been told that there is a vent flap actuator which can fail leaving the engine heater blowing cold air. So nothing to do with coolant or thermostat or valves.
Does anyone know about this actuator.? I believe that the dashboard has to come of to access it . I can't find anything on line other than second hand actuators for sale.

brownted

wytco0 · Jan 22, 2024

Bruises said:
Thanks for the drawings, really helps me understand what to look for in the car.
I started earlier today by cleaning the in-tube filter, but that wasn’t really dirty to begin with. After placing the filter back, I opened the bleeder plug, but even after pinching the hoses a couple of times, not coolant came out. Come to think of it, I haven’t checked the coolant level in the EV circuit, assuming ICE and EV are fed out of the same container
So next three things to look at are
-EV coolant level
-4way valve
-coolant pump (I did notice a vibration in the hose between coolant pump and heating unit but am not sure whether the pump is blocked or running)

Do I have to bleed the entire coolant system when removing the pump and/or 4way valve? Or can they be removed without spilling too much coolant?

Hi Did you manage to sort out your PHEV? I am at the same stage as you were when you made this post.
Thanks

nrayanov · Jan 27, 2024

To diagnose and fix your heating issue, you need to carry out some steps:

1. There could be stuck airflaps. To reset/fix this, you need to put the car into ACC2 mode, push AUTO on the HVAC controls, and then press the MODE button 20 times, pausing for about 5 seconds between each press.

2. If this doesn't help, the cabin temperature sensor might be blocked with fluff/dust, and/or other stuff. It's located behind the gashes on the dashboard near the steering column. You can clean that with a compressed air can.

3. The cabin heater matrix might be blocked. You can check on YouTube to learn how to fix this or find a garage to do it for you.

4. The 4-way valve might be blocked. You can check on YouTube to learn how to fix this or find a garage to do it for you.

5. If none of the above fixes the issue with heating, you are probably looking at a broken electric heater or electric pump, especially if it heats fine from the engine.

sipaldi · Jan 31, 2024

Similar issues with mine, again. I have the 2.4 late 2018 model. I have had this problem before and the dealer in the UK flushed and cleaned the system. They wanted several hundred pounds until I argued it was still under warranty. Now I am out of warranty and the issue has started again, heaters ok with the engine running, not great though and then goes cold in electric mode only. Thinking it may have a blockage once more?

NickFoz · Jun 19, 2024

This video shows how to flush the whole system, and clean the 4-way valve, in incredible detail! Buy this guy a coffee!

Kramarz · Sep 25, 2024

nrayanov said:
To diagnose and fix your heating issue, you need to carry out some steps:

1. There could be stuck airflaps. To reset/fix this, you need to put the car into ACC2 mode, push AUTO on the HVAC controls, and then press the MODE button 20 times, pausing for about 5 seconds between each press.

2. If this doesn't help, the cabin temperature sensor might be blocked with fluff/dust, and/or other stuff. It's located behind the gashes on the dashboard near the steering column. You can clean that with a compressed air can.

3. The cabin heater matrix might be blocked. You can check on YouTube to learn how to fix this or find a garage to do it for you.

4. The 4-way valve might be blocked. You can check on YouTube to learn how to fix this or find a garage to do it for you.

5. If none of the above fixes the issue with heating, you are probably looking at a broken electric heater or electric pump, especially if it heats fine from the engine.

I got myself 2018 Outlander PHEV 2.4, import from Japan.
It looks great in and out, and drives great.
How do I know what model it is actually. I read that "3H" models don't have electric heater? I don't think I have one.
Anyway...
8 degrees Celsius outside, I get in, I turn on heating on max (32 degrees) and petrol engines engages to produce the hit.
After like 15 minutes blowed out air gets only very slightly warmer, and that's it, not getting any warmer after that.
When I reduce the temp even by 1 degree, car switches to electric engine, and that stops even that slightly warm air to be produced. Could that mean that cabin sensor is fecked up?
I have done point 1 from the above list, then following point 2 I have used compressed air to dust off the cabin temperature sensor.
Both didn't help at all.
Am I looking at replacing the sensor or am I to try and clean the filter that's inside the coolant pipe?

greendwarf · Sep 25, 2024

Kramarz said:
I got myself 2018 Outlander PHEV 2.4, import from Japan.
It looks great in and out, and drives great.
How do I know what model it is actually. I read that "3H" models don't have electric heater? I don't think I have one.
Anyway...
8 degrees Celsius outside, I get in, I turn on heating on max (32 degrees) and petrol engines engages to produce the hit.
After like 15 minutes blowed out air gets only very slightly warmer, and that's it, not getting any warmer after that.
When I reduce the temp even by 1 degree, car switches to electric engine, and that stops even that slightly warm air to be produced. Could that mean that cabin sensor is fecked up?
I have done point 1 from the above list, then following point 2 I have used compressed air to dust off the cabin temperature sensor.
Both didn't help at all.
Am I looking at replacing the sensor or am I to try and clean the filter that's inside the coolant pipe?

A six year old car is likely to need the aircon servicing, as my 2014 model does, again!

As regards the model, the 3H had been discontinued in the UK well before 2018 but it might have been still produced in 1japan. However, the key differences in the UK (in addition to no electric heating) was not Infotainment centre console - just radio/disc player and no wifi module to control the car externally but not sure how you check that, I'm afraid. Oh, and no chrome trim round the windows.

Kramarz · Sep 25, 2024

re: console - I don't have a Mitsubishi one (and no car WiFi), just some Android 13.1 based one... I assumed that Japanese guy replaced it for whatever reason... or were these cars released from factory like that as well?

littlescrote · Sep 26, 2024

greendwarf said:
A six year old car is likely to need the aircon servicing, as my 2014 model does, again!

As regards the model, the 3H had been discontinued in the UK well before 2018 but it might have been still produced in 1japan. However, the key differences in the UK (in addition to no electric heating) was not Infotainment centre console - just radio/disc player and no wifi module to control the car externally but not sure how you check that, I'm afraid. Oh, and no chrome trim round the windows.

The aircon does nothing for providing heat - it does not have a heat pump.

kernelpanic · Sep 26, 2024

There seems to be two different subjects being discusses here, the "3H" and heating problems.

Concerning Spec. levels in different countries, I don't know if the models exported to different markets all had the same levels of equipment. Here for example is the equipment for each of the 4 variants sold in France, it's for the 2.4 Lit model, sold between 2018 and 2020.

https://cdn.automobile-propre.com/uploads/2019/08/outlander-phev-2020-equipemens.jpg

Other markets may have had other equipment variants.

Kramarz · Sep 26, 2024

Funny... my car seems to have some of the features of all of those french versions... but none of them matches fully

greendwarf · Sep 29, 2024

My fellow Essex-boy Littlescrote is right to point out that without a heat pump the aircon on a 3H can't provide heat but it does operate automatically if the heating is switched on, presumably to provide demist to the screen.

Anyway, as one of the few 3h owners here, I tried last night to replicate the OP problem, as this was the first opportunity since the Spring to feel the need for heating in Lundun and, as I was out of battery the ICE was running anyway. Unfortunately, I couldn't replicate it, by fiddling with various settings - not least because my 2014 model only goes up to 29c! - but certainly it got hot enough to suggest the aircon is not really involved other than to cool the cabin if you turn the temperature down!

One problem with the OP is that temperature is very subjective. I've been to Spain in late October, when the locals are wearing coats but the crazy tourists are still sunbathing in bikinis and in Ireland in August when my wife wanted to light the peat fire and the natives were complaining about a heatwave!

So what the OP complains about might not seem cold to most of us - personally I never want the heating more than 22c - 32c is hot, hot, hot!

So, although we know the ambient temperature was 8c, we don't know if the airflow was set to recirculation, nor the vent mode and fan setting or the speed of travel. The car loses heat faster as it speeds up but conversely the ICE works harder (i.e. gets hotter) on the motorway than stuck in heavy traffic. Again, having the fan on full doesn't help it heat up - in auto mode the fan starts on low and gradually speeds up as the the temperature increases. NB. If it doesn't do that then it might indicate a faulty cabin sensor.

Finally, what is the coolant level? In "old days" lack of heat was a sure sign loss of water or a leaking radiator but could also indicate a faulty thermostat - both of which I have experienced.

Kramarz · Sep 29, 2024

greendwarf said:
My fellow Essex-boy Littlescrote is right to point out that without a heat pump the aircon on a 3H can't provide heat but it does operate automatically if the heating is switched on, presumably to provide demist to the screen.

Anyway, as one of the few 3h owners here, I tried last night to replicate the OP problem, as this was the first opportunity since the Spring to feel the need for heating in Lundun and, as I was out of battery the ICE was running anyway. Unfortunately, I couldn't replicate it, by fiddling with various settings - not least because my 2014 model only goes up to 29c! - but certainly it got hot enough to suggest the aircon is not really involved other than to cool the cabin if you turn the temperature down!

One problem with the OP is that temperature is very subjective. I've been to Spain in late October, when the locals are wearing coats but the crazy tourists are still sunbathing in bikinis and in Ireland in August when my wife wanted to light the peat fire and the natives were complaining about a heatwave! So what the OP complains about might not seem cold to most of us - personally I never want the heating more than 22c - 32c is hot, hot, hot!

So, although we know the ambient temperature was 8c, we don't know if the airflow was set to recirculation, nor the vent mode and fan setting or the speed of travel. The car loses heat faster as it speeds up but conversely the ICE works harder (i.e. gets hotter) on the motorway than stuck in heavy traffic. Again, having the fan on full doesn't help it heat up - in auto mode the fan starts on low and gradually speeds up as the the temperature increases. NB. If it doesn't do that then it might indicate a faulty cabin sensor.

Finally, what is the coolant level? In "old days" lack of heat was a sure sign loss of water or a leaking radiator but could also indicate a faulty thermostat - both of which I have experienced.

Still not sure if my car is a "3H", whatever that means. From the badge by the door all I get to identify the model is:
5LA-GG3W XDSHZ
GG3W-0602489
And some more stuff below it.
As to, why I set it to 32 - only to make sure that the car knows I want it to warm the car up. If I get it set to lower, like 26, nothing happens. When maxing it out I at least get slightly warm air to come out after like 15 minutes or running the petrol engine.
I'm quite sure this model has no EV heating, as car tells me so if I have heating on and switch to EV, it tells me no heating possible in EV mode.
I didn't set airflow to circulation. Vent mode, tried all positions.
Coolant levels are all good.
Nothing is leaking, it's all shiny under the hood, ridiculously clean (almost as straight out of factory), and dry.

Would you have a suggestion regarding a procedure to really test if the heating is working or not?

Heating not working

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