jaapv said:They are not gears, they are electric regenerating settings. The main use is to control your speed without braking when going downhill. Some use them to optimize fuel/electricity economy by switching between coasting (B0) and different levels of regenerative braking in traffic, but personally I have not seen that the effort is matched by the result when driving that way.
greendwarf said:You can also use the B action on the gear stick - one pull takes you to B3, the next to B5 - to simulate engine braking as when changing down in a manual gearbox to slow the car. Also gives something to do with your left hand (on a right-hand drive car) to stop you fiddling with the damn MMCS :lol:
HHL said:greendwarf said:You can also use the B action on the gear stick - one pull takes you to B3, the next to B5 - to simulate engine braking as when changing down in a manual gearbox to slow the car. Also gives something to do with your left hand (on a right-hand drive car) to stop you fiddling with the damn MMCS :lol:
Yes.. they are there to simulate gears and are very useful for descends... nothing more. No amount of fiddling in normal driving will make a difference in economy.
greendwarf said:Not quite on either count. My point was that the "braking" effect works in any situation where you want to slow the car - not just downhill. Also if you drive in B0 and a adopt a "coasting" style of driving up to things - corners, traffic lights etc. - i.e. not constant accelerating & braking as you would with a normal car, the effect of a smoother driving technique will improve economy. :mrgreen:
Coasting in B0 is not real coasting either. The e-motors are still spinning and use about 20 - 25 Wh per kilometer to overcome internal (E-) drag (compared to 150 - 200 when doing 80 km/h steady, depending on conditions). At least an ICE can go into neutral, where ours can'tSolarBoy said:... and doing something an ICE car can't do without going into neutral / pressing the clutch.
anko said:Coasting in B0 is not real coasting either. The e-motors are still spinning and use about 20 - 25 Wh per kilometer to overcome internal (E-) drag (compared to 150 - 200 when doing 80 km/h steady, depending on conditions). At least an ICE can go into neutral, where ours can'tSolarBoy said:... and doing something an ICE car can't do without going into neutral / pressing the clutch.
I think this is more an opinion than it is a proven fact . Please see below picture. It shows two decelerations (ignore the bit in the middle).HHL said:Yes.. they are there to simulate gears and are very useful for descends... nothing more. No amount of fiddling in normal driving will make a difference in economy.
Grigou said:Certainly an interesting picture anko, but there is no need of measurement to feel the difference between braking in B0 an braking in B5.
And no need of sophisticated instrument to see the different power of regen on the MMCS screen !
So I don"t understand all these guys who say that when pushing the brake pedal the regen is the same with all Bx. Do we drive the same cars ? Maybe not ? :?:
Thanks. But now you are probably talking about 'coasting' in B0 versus B5. That difference is imho undebated, but not so much of interest. Question is (more or less): does B0 plus brake pedal equal B5. I think that is rather difficult to 'feel', and this is why some may think they are the same from a regen perspective.Grigou said:Certainly an interesting picture anko, but there is no need of measurement to feel the difference between braking in B0 an braking in B5.
This could be true. I only compared B0 versus B5. I am curious though why you think it is. Is it based upon what you see on the power meter?HHL said:Grigou said:Certainly an interesting picture anko, but there is no need of measurement to feel the difference between braking in B0 an braking in B5.
And no need of sophisticated instrument to see the different power of regen on the MMCS screen !
So I don"t understand all these guys who say that when pushing the brake pedal the regen is the same with all Bx. Do we drive the same cars ? Maybe not ? :?:
I think the regen braking when using the brake pedal is less in b0 and b1 but similar in all the higher settings.
anko said:This could be true. I only compared B0 versus B5. I am curious though why you think it is. Is it based upon what you see on the power meter?HHL said:Grigou said:Certainly an interesting picture anko, but there is no need of measurement to feel the difference between braking in B0 an braking in B5.
And no need of sophisticated instrument to see the different power of regen on the MMCS screen !
So I don"t understand all these guys who say that when pushing the brake pedal the regen is the same with all Bx. Do we drive the same cars ? Maybe not ? :?:
I think the regen braking when using the brake pedal is less in b0 and b1 but similar in all the higher settings.
Another, more interesting question would be: why did they do this? The only thing I can come up with is that they want to limit charge current under 'normal' conditions (to protect battery life). If that is true, there would be a trade off: optimal range or prolonged battery life. But I have never seen / heard any warning from Mitsubishi or the dealer that the use of higher B levels could have a negative impact on battery life.
:lol: :lol:HHL said:I also conducted a highly scientific test by driving down a hill in normal "D", which is B2 and applying the brakes and then touching the brake disk, when I did the same run in B0, the disks where much hotter. so..... scientific proof.