when in drive (D) its the equivalent of B2. ie, when you lift off the accelerator, there is a little bit of regeneration happening through the electric motors back to the battery (same as current F1 cars have on rear axle). If you brake, it applies max regen (equivalent to B5) but if thats not enough, the brake pads apply to retard the car, and thats wasted energy (but helps you not plough into the car/person/wall in front].
the car is pretty sophisticated and paddling v leaving in D doesn't give a huge advantage. If you manually change the regen using the paddles, you can look ahead a little better than the car would do and choose to coast (B0), lightly retard the speed (B1) or use it like a brake (B4 or B5).
If you are in B mode (B0/B1/B2/B3/B4/B5), turning on cruise control automatically defaults back to B2 (the same as in D)
Two warnings: (1) B5 slows you as much as gentle braking but no brake lights illuminate so be careful if you have drivers behind you. (i know they should anticipate ahead too but I found too many drivers behind don't anticipate and so stopped using more than B2 if car behind me) And (2) with a full battery (eg having charged and set off) the regeneration is almost nil, so paddling up to B5 doesnt actually slow you down much as the battery can't over-fill, just so it doesnt catch you out. The first few miles of a journey using B0 is most effective.
i do the same daily A road 20 mile each way commute and on average using 'eco mode and D' gets me home with about 8 miles indicated remaining, 'eco and paddling' i get home with 10 miles indicated remaining, so it has a noticeable, albiet minor, difference.
There's a thread on paddling for fun, and thats the main reason i do it. Maybe I should I get out more, but hey, it makes me smile