Outlander 2014 Charging Woes: Seeking Solutions

[elkoenjo]

For the past two weeks, my 2014 Outlander hasn't been charging. Initially, I received a message for two days saying "the charging cable was disconnected," and the car made a strange clicking noise when connecting. It seemed like the car repeatedly tried to start charging. Since last week, nothing happens when charging at home (3-phase, using an adapter).

Today, I tested charging at a station using Chademo, but it also stopped after about 7 seconds each time. The car displays the error code "Charge interrupted by cable disconnect or power supply failure."

What's most peculiar is that the battery does charge via the granny charger, but only when the car is in "learning mode." However, charging via the Type 1 charger doesn't work in learning mode either, and I receive the same error message.

I've searched the forum but haven't found an answer. Can anyone help diagnose what might be causing these issues?

 

[AndyInOz]

Erm...

What is 'learning mode' ?

 

[elkoenjo]

Erm...

What is 'learning mode' ?

Apologies for any confusion regarding the English language. English is not my native language. By "learning mode," I mean the mode where the contact is engaged, but the (electric) motor is not running.

 

[Ecological]

Problem with buying second hand cars....Never know where it has been and how the owner had treated it.

 

[michael8554]

You have a non-portable EVSE on a 3-Phase supply - what is the adapter you mention ?

You also have a granny charger that does work but only in "learning mode" - as Andy, what is that ? Something on the app ?

And it also doesn't charge from CHAdeMo - did you try several, as in the UK I find many CHAdeMo chargers to be unreliable with our old cars.

Maybe time to change the 12V Aux battery ?

 

[Ecological]

I have noticed on this feed, that some even take their cars apart, experiment with it....some know what they do, and some are simply grovelling in the dark. If my car had such charging problems, I would be extremely concerned. If I had bought this particular car, I would go to high heavens to get a refund, even in Small Claims Court proceedings, assuming that you paid less than £10,000 for it? THESE ARE ALL UK FIGURES, AND UK FACTS. So sorry if you are not UK. I presume there are similar laws in Netherlands to protect you? But first and foremost, get a properly well honed, well qualified engineer to look at the problem. It could be a simple problem, eg lose or detached wires, or it could be one which is not economically viable to fix. If the latter, looks like Court Proceedings are your only good option.

 

[PHEV07]

For the past two weeks, my 2014 Outlander hasn't been charging. Initially, I received a message for two days saying "the charging cable was disconnected," and the car made a strange clicking noise when connecting. It seemed like the car repeatedly tried to start charging. Since last week, nothing happens when charging at home (3-phase, using an adapter).

Today, I tested charging at a station using Chademo, but it also stopped after about 7 seconds each time. The car displays the error code "Charge interrupted by cable disconnect or power supply failure."

What's most peculiar is that the battery does charge via the granny charger, but only when the car is in "learning mode." However, charging via the Type 1 charger doesn't work in learning mode either, and I receive the same error message.

I've searched the forum but haven't found an answer. Can anyone help diagnose what might be causing these issues?

I would start by using a Multi-Volt Meter check the Voltage of the 12 volt Aux Battery. 12.6 Volts is value of a fully harged battery buy usable with value as low a 12vdc.

Then change selector on Multimeter to AC and measure the boltsge of the receptacle that you are plugging the charger cable into. In North America Level 1 is 120vac in UK should 220vac.

Please report your findings.

 

[Phev2016]

Please explain 'learning mode' a little more. Is this when the car is switched off because it might not charge if you have the car switched on. Also, check that you have not activated the timer in the car so that it is not able to charge at the time when you test it.
I agree with Phev07 that you should check 12V battery.
If your 230V wall charging unit (not the granny charger standard house socket) is a fixed cable with a connector to the car then it would not normally be at 230V unless connected to the car. If the charging unit requires that you connect a cable directly from it to the car then the wall unit outlet might be at 230V but I doubt it, unless it's connected to the car (If you do decide to test it, be very careful as 230V is much more dangerous than 110V)
You also stated that you have 3-phase supply and I guess you mean that it is converted to single phase by an adapter - there might be a 3-phase supply problem but I doubt it. I suggest you find a public charger (not Chademo) and plug into that so you can rule out any house supply issues - but check the 12V battery first.

 

[elkoenjo]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the detailed feedback and tips.

To clarify what I mean by "learning mode": this is when I press the start button once without my foot on the brake (automatic and keyless). The car is then "on," but I cannot put it into gear.In this mode, the car does charge via the granny charger, but I get an error message when using the fast charging cable.

Regarding single-phase and three-phase: my fuse box has been adapted to a three-fase. The outside box on the wall only have a fixed cable from my charging point (box). I use an adapter to go from type 2 to type 1.

I will buy a multimeter to measure the battery. Is it correct that the battery is in the trunk?

Once again, many thanks for your help. For clarity I've attached a photo of the error

 

[michael8554]

With my 2014, if I press the Start button once with foot off the brake, the car goes to "ACC" mode.
If I step out and close the drivers door the car "beeps.
If I plug in a 230V wall-mounted EVSE the beeping stops and it charges.

 

[elkoenjo]

I would start by using a Multi-Volt Meter check the Voltage of the 12 volt Aux Battery. 12.6 Volts is value of a fully harged battery buy usable with value as low a 12vdc.

Then change selector on Multimeter to AC and measure the boltsge of the receptacle that you are plugging the charger cable into. In North America Level 1 is 120vac in UK should 220vac.

Please report your findings.

Tested it, score of the 12v is 12.19

The second part I don't understand, what i should do. Could you please elaborate a bit more?

 

[AndyInOz]

12.19 is very low for a 12V battery. (Close to 25% of a full charge)

You should replace this battery and see if your other issues go away.

 

[elkoenjo]

Could the 12V battery be low because I haven't charged the car for a few weeks? (I did drive plenty during that time, but I didn't succesfully connect it to a charging station.)

Thanks for the good advice

 

[AndyInOz]

I think it's more likely that the battery is low because it is old and failing.

The battery should charge up whenever the car is turned on.

If you are using the app to communicate with the car, it should also charge up every day.

(At 2 pm IIRC)

 

[elkoenjo]

I think it's more likely that the battery is low because it is old and failing.

The battery should charge up whenever the car is turned on.

If you are using the app to communicate with the car, it should also charge up every day.

(At 2 pm IIRC)

Jup I'm Using the app. But when the main battery is empty, there is nothing to charge from right?

 

[michael8554]

Also check the aux battery voltage is around 14V when the car is ON.
Showing that it's being charged by the traction battery.
You can easily measure the aux battery voltage at the red "jump start" terminal in the big under-bonnet fuse box.

 

[elkoenjo]

Thanks!

Also check the aux battery voltage is around 14V when the car is ON.
Showing that it's being charged by the traction battery.
You can easily measure the aux battery voltage at the red "jump start" terminal in the big under-bonnet fuse bo

Also check the aux battery voltage is around 14V when the car is ON.
Showing that it's being charged by the traction battery.
You can easily measure the aux battery voltage at the red "jump start" terminal in the big under-bonnet fuse box.

Just tested it. But I didn't get any number on my multimeter (well, it stays on 0.00). Startbutton was in orange and blue. Multimeter red, against red jumpstart. Multimeter black in numerous positions on the chassis.

Probably I did something wrong. Settings on the multimeter where the same as testen directly on the battery. (So that variable can be ruled out)

 

[chezz]

Also check the aux battery voltage is around 14V when the car is ON.
Showing that it's being charged by the traction battery.
You can easily measure the aux battery voltage at the red "jump start" terminal in the big under-bonnet fuse box.

I would be interested to know what anybody thinks of the PHEV Watchdog Lite App as I have only had it a few months , it appears to show the Battery under Aux on the screen that shows your speed , Altitude, range etc, the screen to the right also shows the Tyre pressures, mine are all within one PSI, accurate enough to save you checking your tyre pressures manually? On other screens it shows battery min/max voltages and temperatures and more

 

[AndyInOz]

Hmm...

Your main battery, the traction battery, should not be anywhere near zero.

When you are driving the car, the engine should be charging the 12V battery at the same time as the traction battery.

Is your car also unable to charge from the engine?

I'm confused about how you would be able to drive it at all in that condition.

 

[michael8554]

"Multimeter red, against red jumpstart. Multimeter black in numerous positions on the chassis."

Mine reads 12.6V in OFF and 14.67V in ON.
You have flipped the red plastic cover to get access to the metal contact ?