MY 2019 Phev no wheel paddles?

[Molnboman]

Just picked my Outlander Phev today and noticed I have no paddles to adjust the RB. Are paddles standard on all versions in the UK? Mine is the basic Swedish rep’ version which in between the UK bssic and next up.

BR
MM

 

[Molnboman]

I will answer my own question. Yes, the rep spec version does not come with paddles for RB. Not sure what impact it will have on it’s overall performance. I did a 110 km drive back home from my office today and was pleasantly surprised how quickly the EV charged up just on motorway driving. Nice to have a big car again after nearly 2 years driving a Volvo V40.

Cheers
MM

 

[ChrisMiller]

Yes, the lowest UK spec ('Juro') has the paddles. Can you still change the braking effect using the 'gear knob'? D is equivalent to B2, but you can increase that to B3 with one backward press and then a second takes it to B5 - but there's no way to reduce it using the knob (except by going into N and then back to D, not recommended and I haven't tried it on the move ).

Unless you're going up and down hills, the efficiency improvement that can be achieved using the paddles isn't all that great.

 

[jaapv]

Even in the hills the efficiency gain is marginal. It is more the convenience of not having to use the brake pedal downhill.

 

[Phevy]

I like to use the paddles for coasting long downhill stretches and managing the RB while approaching traffic lights.
Not sure if it gains much, but I enjoy it :lol:

So without paddles, you cannot coast in B0 ?

 

[greendwarf]

I like to use the paddles for coasting long downhill stretches and managing the RB while approaching traffic lights.
Not sure if it gains much, but I enjoy it :lol:

So without paddles, you cannot coast in B0 ?

+1

 

[ChrisMiller]

Even in the hills the efficiency gain is marginal. It is more the convenience of not having to use the brake pedal downhill.

Round here (lots of 15% hills), if I couldn't select at least B3, I'd have to use the brake to hold my speed. And slowing while on downhill stretches needs B5.

 

[richr]

but there's no way to reduce it using the knob (except by going into N and then back to D, not recommended and I haven't tried it on the move ).

It's fine to go from B3/B5 to D on the gearstick - it won't go into neutral unless you hold it across for a couple of seconds, but if you move across and down into D that won't happen. Shame not to have access to B0 and B1 as they can be handy if you're trying to save petrol by coasting on the flat.

 

[Mike01Hu]

My understanding is that with careful throttle control you emulate the lower RB settings but it means keeping your eye on the power meter, not such a good idea, but if you keep the power at the changeover point you are coasting.

 

[ThudnBlundr]

You can coast in any 'B' setting: it's just that in B0 you can coast without your foot on the accelerator. In other 'B' settings, you have to have your foot slightly on the accelerator to stop regen and get the car coasting, with the needle in the power meter flat.

 

[Molnboman]

Yes, the lowest UK spec ('Juro') has the paddles. Can you still change the braking effect using the 'gear knob'? D is equivalent to B2, but you can increase that to B3 with one backward press and then a second takes it to B5 - but there's no way to reduce it using the knob (except by going into N and then back to D, not recommended and I haven't tried it on the move ).

Unless you're going up and down hills, the efficiency improvement that can be achieved using the paddles isn't all that great.

Yes, out of D you can “tap” to B1 & B2 and switching to sport mode, it goes to B5! My daily commute is mostly motorway for about 60 miles with 5 miles either way as urban. So, the car seems to charge up to 95% charge on the motorway.

 

[twosout]

I use B5 all the time.
That is, once I've remembered to set it.

 

[quenthal]

Yes, the lowest UK spec ('Juro') has the paddles. Can you still change the braking effect using the 'gear knob'? D is equivalent to B2, but you can increase that to B3 with one backward press and then a second takes it to B5 - but there's no way to reduce it using the knob (except by going into N and then back to D, not recommended and I haven't tried it on the move ).

Unless you're going up and down hills, the efficiency improvement that can be achieved using the paddles isn't all that great.

Yes, out of D you can “tap” to B1 & B2 and switching to sport mode, it goes to B5! My daily commute is mostly motorway for about 60 miles with 5 miles either way as urban. So, the car seems to charge up to 95% charge on the motorway.

What do you mean by "tap" to B1? I've seen B3 and B5, but should it be done faster to achieve B1?

 

[littlescrote]

My understanding is that with careful throttle control you emulate the lower RB settings but it means keeping your eye on the power meter, not such a good idea, but if you keep the power at the changeover point you are coasting.

You can coast in any 'B' setting: it's just that in B0 you can coast without your foot on the accelerator. In other 'B' settings, you have to have your foot slightly on the accelerator to stop regen and get the car coasting, with the needle in the power meter flat.

Both correct. It's not easy to get just so without energy flow one way or the other though, certainly not as easy as just lifting off completely in B0

Round here (lots of 15% hills), if I couldn't select at least B3, I'd have to use the brake to hold my speed. And slowing while on downhill stretches needs B5.

You can be in B0 and brake - the net effect will be exactly the same, as the brake pedal will engage the regen and not the mechanical brakes anyway until you brake really hard or are moving very slowly. there is no difference between going down a steep hill in B5 or with the brake pedal in B0 except convenience and ease of driving.

 

[ThudnBlundr]

Both correct. It's not easy to get just so without energy flow one way or the other though, certainly not as easy as just lifting off completely in B0

To be fair, most people have been doing something very similar in pure ICE vehicles without thinking. You simply vary the pressure on the accelerator until you're maintaining the desired speed. So doing the same using higher 'B' numbers should be intuitive and require no looking down at the gauges. And coasting should not be seen as an end in itself, but as a means to achieving decent economy; so if it needs slight acceleration or slight braking to maintain the desired speed your brain manages it without thinking. But using B0 you cannot slow down without using the brake, whereas in higher 'B' numbers it's trivial.

 

[greendwarf]

Both correct. It's not easy to get just so without energy flow one way or the other though, certainly not as easy as just lifting off completely in B0

To be fair, most people have been doing something very similar in pure ICE vehicles without thinking. You simply vary the pressure on the accelerator until you're maintaining the desired speed. So doing the same using higher 'B' numbers should be intuitive and require no looking down at the gauges. And coasting should not be seen as an end in itself, but as a means to achieving decent economy; so if it needs slight acceleration or slight braking to maintain the desired speed your brain manages it without thinking. But using B0 you cannot slow down without using the brake, whereas in higher 'B' numbers it's trivial.

I think this an oversimplified comparison, particularly when slowing down, where an ICE car will just coast unless you use engine braking, so instinct will not provide the same effect - especially in B5, when the braking effect still catches me out from time to time (watch out behind, I have no brake lights :twisted.

However, this can be very useful on twisting country roads, where I don't need the constant braking/accelerating of normal cars but I do need to be doing this consciously to be safe.

 

[ThudnBlundr]

With an ICE it depends what gear you're in. B2 is designed to mimic an ICE when you release the pedal in top gear so that people moving to the PHEV after a regular car experience the expected deceleration when releasing the accelerator. Same on the Zoe, where releasing the pedal results in gentle deceleration, though the latest one now has a 'B' setting. Like both of these, you can "coast" in an ICE by not releasing the pedal fully, but you're still burning petrol in most of them.

B0 feels distinctly unusual the first time you try it. B5 just feels like you're in a lower gear

 

[MadTechNutter]

Driving only in B5 and trying to hold the pedal somewhere in between is not a good thing.
There are thermal losses using regen and the higher the regen current the more losses.
Using B0 as much as possible will always be the most efficient way to drive but only using B5 to slow down at higher speeds will not only have the highest losses but put stress on the battery.
If traffic allows that I can use the paddles to slow down I always step them up gradually and be at B5 once I am down to about 30km/h.

Of course you could just leave it in B2 and use the brake pedal but the paddles are fun and I am pretty sure I can get the best efficiency using them wisely.

 

[michael8554]

I only deliberately set to B5 in town, 30mph max.

Going down a steep hill from B0 I ramp up to the B setting that gives the desired retardation.

 

[ThudnBlundr]

Driving only in B5 and trying to hold the pedal somewhere in between is not a good thing.
There are thermal losses using regen and the higher the regen current the more losses.
Using B0 as much as possible will always be the most efficient way to drive but only using B5 to slow down at higher speeds will not only have the highest losses but put stress on the battery.

I'm sorry, but have you any evidence for your bold statements? Or are you confusing opinions with facts?

1. Why is driving in B5 "not a good thing"? Show me the facts. I find that I can coast in B5 fairly easily for the short times that I need to, and it uses exactly the same amount of energy as coasting in B0. It also means that I can start slowing more rapidly if the need arises without having to press the brake or play with the paddles, so it is safer. But I'm willing to be swayed by your proof.

2. There are all sorts of losses using regen, so I'm not sure what relevance purely thermal losses have. How much extra energy is lost using regen in B5 or B2? I'd be surprised if it was measurable in normal driving. Or if you don't use regen, you have to use the disks and waste energy as heat. But again I'm willing to be swayed by your proof.

3. Please show your evidence for stating that B0 is the most efficient way to to drive. In my experience it is not, but as ever I'm willing to be swayed by your proof.