D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)

[MadTechNutter]

Thanks Darkflow

I've been through all of this thread again, and I'm not sure, did madtechnutter's post (with the image of his diodes and leads) actually work, or was he showing how it COULD be done?

Has he attached the diodes ACROSS the battery? That would be almost a short circuit, so don't think so.

I removed the plastic floor (quite easy, just 5 posidrive screws) to get to the Pos terminal so I could more easily measure the volts.

Diodes placed in the Pos feed to the car, rather than in the earth lead.

No need to open any plastic floor. It is designed for the negative terminal in series to the battery as I wrote before:

There you go:
Red goes to the car terminal, black to the AUX battery negative.

.

3-4 (diodes) in series might work. Maybe a Schottky diode in between for a smaller drop to get a better resolution.
Think of the Schottky like half a standard diode.
So trying out combinations of all these diodes until you get the relay response under 4c of the A-Method.

ALL AT YOUR OWN RISK

 

[MadTechNutter]

So today I ran the car down to the point where the ICE kept coming on even when stationary, 11.2aH, 36%.

Pretty much the same results.

Below 10 volts the error message appeared, but the best I got was 1 relay click and no charging.

10 volts and above no error message and multiple clicks and charging started.

10 volts was with 2 diodes.

Closest I could get to just below 10 volts with the diodes I had was 9.7 volts with 3 "diodes" in series - 2 ordinary diodes plus 2 Schottsky in parallel.

The forward biased diodes were connected between the Aux battery Plus terminal and the removed Red clamp on the cable feeding the car.

Measurements were between the clamp and earth.

Why isn't 8.5 volts operating the relays on my car?

Michael

I wrote before not to switch on the car AUX as that could fry the diodes. I am astonished it didn't but those 10A10s are pretty hardy.
You should not see any error messages or service lights. I even mentioned to switch off the tailgate light.
The car should be dead, no lights, nothing
This is important because the current surges vary and additional loads will mess this up.
The only thing that should cause the voltage drop is the startup sequence of the charge process when you connect the diode dropper (DD) between the battery and the battery clamp.
The difference between holding the battery clamp for three seconds in the original Lindqvist method and here with the DD in series is that you need to hold it longer, possibly 10 seconds before all the relays click or don't even bother removing it straight after, because the diodes with do that for you once the charger has activated.
Important is you need to wait longer until you hear all 6 relays clicks. The last two (that can click very close together that it sounds like one) take a lot longer than usual and when that happens you have most likely initiated the reset.

Don't worry about measuring any voltage drops here, just try diode combinations until you get the delayed relay clicks and the charger goes on.
Then please report back which combination worked, if it did

I don't want to do it myself as I got my battery working so good that is shows now 76km range on the guessometer after a completed charge :mrgreen:
Of course that drops 10km after the first small hill.
SoH has settled nicely at 37.7Ah and most of the time when I get home on a near empty battery I still have near 3.8V open circuit cell voltage.
I don't want to mess anything here up with another 'reset'.

 

[michael8554]

Thanks for the clarifications, I will try again with the 4 diodes shown in the image, and wait for much longer.

The other successful post mentions the error messages appearing, and with 3 or more diodes I got the error messages.

I never switched on the AUX mode.

Everything was off, even the tailgate light.

Voltage readings are important IMO, helps to quantify these 3 fairly random precedures.

Also an approximate time for charging to start will help others.

 

[michael8554]

Today tried the Diode Method again, allowing 60 seconds for charging to start.

4 diodes gave 8.8volts, which changed to a steady 9.26volts after a clunk at 23 seconds, but no more clunks or charging after 60 seconds.

With 3 diodes and 2 diodes, clunk and voltage rise at 23 seconds, but no charging.

1 diode gave almost immediate charging, volts changed to 14.4V too fast to accurately read, but about 11.3 volts.

So almost no clunking and no charging at reduced volts.

HOWEVER

After packing up I opened WatchDog, and saw that the status was now 38aH at 100% !!!!!!

I'm sorry I didn't do WatchDog after each attempt, so I have no idea when the reset happened.

Apologies for the screenshot, haven't investigated how to do a screen-grab with my tablet, and didn't want to loose the evidence :->

Incidently, what are all the tiny white icons at the top of my screen, look like tiny Chrome symbols, and seem to appear after WatchDog activity ?

So maybe it's just the low volts that is resetting, I seem to remember a post about it happening to someone whose battery had run down while they were away on holiday or similar?

View attachment Watchdog_38aH.jpg

 

[michael8554]

I see that there is now a no equipment required method, that takes only 20 seconds to carry out:

Unplugged EV reports it, episode 261 if the link doesn't work

https://youtu.be/PrbQaxrnSxk

From the comments about 50% success rate.

Watch the other video in the comments below Andy's video for more info on how to do it.

 

[elm70]

I see that there is now a no equipment required method, that takes only 20 seconds to carry out:

Unplugged EV reports it, episode 261 if the link doesn't work

From the comments about 50% success rate.

Watch the other video in the comments below Andy's video for more info on how to do it.

The guy just bounce around what he can read on the net, he did not experiment any of these method

We can find more information here and in FB, then not on his videos ...

Success rate is 50% on Lindqvist method .. and possibly the D method is even a bit more

I think are more the people that success to reset the BMU then not the one that did fail ... but yes ... people had often to try multiple times and find the method that better work for them.

The linquist method short version ... which I posted on the other thread .. can also be done in 20 seconds, and no need to long delay with 12v battery disconnected.

 

[MadTechNutter]

Today tried the Diode Method again, allowing 60 seconds for charging to start.

4 diodes gave 8.8volts, which changed to a steady 9.26volts after a clunk at 23 seconds, but no more clunks or charging after 60 seconds.

With 3 diodes and 2 diodes, clunk and voltage rise at 23 seconds, but no charging.

1 diode gave almost immediate charging, volts changed to 14.4V too fast to accurately read, but about 11.3 volts.

So almost no clunking and no charging at reduced volts.

HOWEVER

After packing up I opened WatchDog, and saw that the status was now 38aH at 100% !!!!!!

I'm sorry I didn't do WatchDog after each attempt, so I have no idea when the reset happened.

Apologies for the screenshot, haven't investigated how to do a screen-grab with my tablet, and didn't want to loose the evidence :->

Incidently, what are all the tiny white icons at the top of my screen, look like tiny Chrome symbols, and seem to appear after WatchDog activity ?

So maybe it's just the low volts that is resetting, I seem to remember a post about it happening to someone whose battery had run down while they were away on holiday or similar?

I suppose I should have instructed to check the watchdog every time you try different diode combinations but you finally had success. That is fantastic, congratulations
You won't believe how much better the car feels with that reserve.
...and you got it with the diode dropper, which is a big improvement over having to mess around with old batteries or even worse the D-method with the AUX battery which is a pretty terrible thing to do.

@elm70
Michael has I believe like me, an Australian PHEV where no amount of trying the Lindqvist method worked, short or long. I tried longer than a week, maybe two, with a lot of frustration, that is why I created this thread for "Stubborn PHEVs" in an attempt for a reset method that works 100%.

While it might be a shame that Michael could not find out which diode combination worked for him, it is not that important as it is a matter of a minute to add or remove a diode on the terminal strip and the sweet spot may be different from car to car. Maybe some relays click louder or switch very close together on different cars too. Some people claim they hear only two contactor cluncks, I hear 6.
Important is that he got it working and for me I will be ready with the diode strip in a year or whenever the battery SoH looks a bit 'unhealthy' again.
So far my car is performing 1A+.
The extended range is real and seems to get better and better, maybe the 5A slow charging is beneficial.
Today I drove my daily round trip rather aggressive, exceeding the highway speed limits where I know the cops can't stand for safety reasons, so a bit of rally feel in the curves, 80km/h instead of 60km/h
I came home with 39km range/4.03V still left.
When I bought the car 39km was all it ever had after a full charge.


EDit: checked the comments on the 20 sec method on Andy's new video and a lot are negative.
Maybe it only works on Aussie cars, or maybe not :roll:

 

[michael8554]

All the methods seem to include charging as a requirement, perhaps this isn't necessarily so?

I urge someone to try the diode method, checking Watchdog after the single clunk at 23 seconds, if that's what happens to you too.

Maybe that's all that is required in this method.

Does anyone know what those 30 to 40 and growing icons are at the top of my tablet screen, they are there on all sources email Google etc?

 

[elm70]

...


EDit: checked the comments on the 20 sec method on Andy's new video and a lot are negative.
Maybe it only works on Aussie cars, or maybe not :roll:

Andy does not test the methods that he "advertise" on his videos ... so ... he just bounce around somebody else "methods" without having any clue what is working and what it is not

That's why check on this forum is a better way then not check his videos.

I never said that Lindqvist method has 100% success rate ... what I'm saying is that combining this D method with the Lindqvist methods, including some associated variants, I believe the success rate for "stubborn" people is close to 100%

 

[michael8554]

You're right elm70, he has a new battery so doesn't try any of the methods.

But I haven't seen any mention of the latest 20 second 5 step method on this site yet?

So he's doing a good job of disseminating info as far as I'm concerned.

 

[jpleduc]

A diode dropper circuit is a great idea.

However I am not sure about inserting the diode dropper circuit between the 12V Aux battery Negative pole and the Ground terminal of the vehicle. This could cause a small voltage to be applied back to the charging circuit as both gnd would not be on a common point.

Inserting the diode dropper circuit on the Positive pole of the battery and the Car + terminal as Michael8554 did seems to be safer giving that we (at least I) don't know the charging circuit details.

Has anyone tried the diode dropper on the negative pole?

Thanks for sharing your results and comments


jpl

 

[michael8554]

There should be no difference or problems connecting the diodes to the Aux battery pos terminal, or to the neg terminal, so long as you get the diodes "pointing" in the right direction.

I only used the pos terminal so that I could easily measure the voltage actually applied to the car, rather than the diode drop from a varying battery voltage.

Although I didn't manage to report the voltage that caused the Reset, I believe the one clunk at 23 secs may be what you need to listen out for.

 

[jpleduc]

Thanks for the info. I am awaiting my diodes and will soon try the diode dropper.
Just lost another 0.1 ah last friday... I need a boost before cold weather hits.
Canadian winters are very cold and I need every ah.

JP happy owner of a 2018 PHEV.

 

[Strada916]

Ok so I tried the D-easy and the D method. I don't see any change except the GOM got reset. So I tried the A-method, with a twist. Instead of a depleted car battery, I used variable power supply. The power supply is capable of 10A. I tried from 8.2V, that was not enough for the relays to come in. So I increased the voltage a little at a time until the plug in charger started to charge. Which was at 11.2V. I didn't get any error messages upon start up. I don't yet have a dog setup. I think this has worked, as the GOM reported 44km range. It never reported that high before. I'll need to get a OBD2 Bluetooth and find out.

 

[mattinykanen]

I want to inform that this 'low-aux-battery' method worked nicely with my13 phev!

Discharged old aux battery to below 12volts, disconnected current aux battery, connected old battery with jump cables, started the car with pressing twice ON-button (no brakepedal pressed), put seat heaters and rear window defrost on.

First displayed ASC failure, then brake failure, then EV failure and after the radio display shut down I switched the car off, disconnected jump cable from battery, connected granny charger, connected jump cable to battery and heard only 3 or 4 clicks from relays and finally charging started (after 10 sec or so). Disconnected jump cable, connected aux battery negative and the bmu was reseted.

Thanks so much for the info on this site!

BR Matti

 

[MadTechNutter]

Ok so I tried the D-easy and the D method. I don't see any change except the GOM got reset. So I tried the A-method, with a twist. Instead of a depleted car battery, I used variable power supply. The power supply is capable of 10A. I tried from 8.2V, that was not enough for the relays to come in. So I increased the voltage a little at a time until the plug in charger started to charge. Which was at 11.2V. I didn't get any error messages upon start up. I don't yet have a dog setup. I think this has worked, as the GOM reported 44km range. It never reported that high before. I'll need to get a OBD2 Bluetooth and find out.

Nice to have that power supply, mine only has 5A.

The dog is highly recommended. 44km sounds a bit low to me.

Initially mine showed up to 74km but it has learned quite well, a full charge might now show 54km but I will get a real range of 51km including highway driving with some modest hills.

The issue with the dog and charging is following:
I never get a 100% charge after the reset.
It will reach 4.1V cell voltage at around 93%, then it takes a very long time to reach about 96% SoC in this secondary constant voltage stage and charge eventually drops to 1A and terminates.
I assume this is based on the fact that my battery can not have the capacity of 37.6Ah that the dog shows and the BMU is in a 'conflict' to try to reach that SoC but can not absorb more energy due to the 4.1V limit.
36Ah seems to be where it stops, so the fake 37.5Ah can drop 0.1Ah every 2 weeks or so and all that will lead to is that I will eventually get a 100% charge one day.

Sure you can live without the dog, but what is the fun in that, when you can't see the magic happening in your PHEV :ugeek:

 

[anttirau]

I tried the diode dropper on negative pole, could not get it to work. 2018 PHEV. Has anyone been able to reset with newer models?

 

[Strada916]

Ok so I tried the D-easy and the D method. I don't see any change except the GOM got reset. So I tried the A-method, with a twist. Instead of a depleted car battery, I used variable power supply. The power supply is capable of 10A. I tried from 8.2V, that was not enough for the relays to come in. So I increased the voltage a little at a time until the plug in charger started to charge. Which was at 11.2V. I didn't get any error messages upon start up. I don't yet have a dog setup. I think this has worked, as the GOM reported 44km range. It never reported that high before. I'll need to get a OBD2 Bluetooth and find out.

Nice to have that power supply, mine only has 5A.

The dog is highly recommended. 44km sounds a bit low to me.

Initially mine showed up to 74km but it has learned quite well, a full charge might now show 54km but I will get a real range of 51km including highway driving with some modest hills.

The issue with the dog and charging is following:
I never get a 100% charge after the reset.
It will reach 4.1V cell voltage at around 93%, then it takes a very long time to reach about 96% SoC in this secondary constant voltage stage and charge eventually drops to 1A and terminates.
I assume this is based on the fact that my battery can not have the capacity of 37.6Ah that the dog shows and the BMU is in a 'conflict' to try to reach that SoC but can not absorb more energy due to the 4.1V limit.
36Ah seems to be where it stops, so the fake 37.5Ah can drop 0.1Ah every 2 weeks or so and all that will lead to is that I will eventually get a 100% charge one day.

Sure you can live without the dog, but what is the fun in that, when you can't see the magic happening in your PHEV :ugeek:

Update


I have successfully reset the BMU with the D easy method.
Fully charged shows 66km range on GOM.
Yet to test out.

Update.
I took the car out for a drive. Where I live is quite hilly. Ended up with 42 real km. No ICE.
No I don't have a OBD2 just yet.

 

[JohanvdH]

@Strada916 What was your real life range before the reset?

 

[Heydr]

I have reset my 2015 Outlander using the diode dropper. It happened for me with 3 diodes and 9.1v on the DOG. I connected to the negative terminal lead as originally described. I have tried all the other methods without success.

Reset to 40Ah, but only charging to 38.2 Ah as expected.

I run my battery to empty on the GOM every day. My previous overnite charge to 4.1v per cell was about 8 to 8.2 kwh. After reset my charge is 9.4kwh. Battery cell at full GOM discharge is 3.6 to 3.7v under moderate load.
Thank u very much for the diode dropper description. It worked brilliantly.

Update......
..........Charged 9.6kwh last night........