Avoid ICE start up at car switch on in the cold

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anko said:
Pre heating does not start the engine. Regardless of how cold it is.

Finally something excellent

While driving I never notice such fast warming up of the car, 10min time and +8deg is not bad at all

It would be nice to be able to program it twice a day, but mmcs allow only once, but it is only few clicks away, something I will use when it will be even colder here
 
elm70 said:
anko said:
Your car is Dutch right? So if it has an alarm at all it is not the factory alarm but aftermarket and it cannot be switched off via WiFi. Wifi hack is pretty useless for Dutch cars.

Yes, my car is Dutch ... but I don't see any evidence of additional alarm ... I only got standard key, nothing else

BTW ... I disabled the WiFi ... the charge timer and heat timer got reset after I did this (only 1 wifi device was register to my car, according to the 2 beeps) .. and now ... just tested ... I can successfully program the heat of the car from the MMCS ... I guess ... there is a free bug kindly gifted from some Japanese engineer ... that if some setting is done over WiFI, then MMCS is getting useless ... I I think somebody else in this forum was reporting a similar problem too

Anyhow ... Quite impressive .. in the 10min of heat up ... with 8deg outside ... the car increase from 11 to 18 deg inside (I have a little voltage and temperature meter on the 12V plug)

Looking forward to get a warm car tomorrow for go to work

PS: It is looking like I'm going to lose 5km range using the heating ... I'm not sure I did not seen the fuel level going down before ... can anybody confirm that programming heating does not start the engine .. independently by outside temperature ?
A Cobra Alarm uses the car key. If you have no Driver Card it will not have a Cobra electronic drive lock.
BTW if you leave the car plugged in it will top up the electricity lost by preheating so you will not lose range. However you will have less range in colder weather anyway.
 
jaapv said:
A Cobra Alarm uses the car key. If you have no Driver Card it will not have a Cobra electronic drive lock.
BTW if you leave the car plugged in it will top up the electricity lost by preheating so you will not lose range. However you will have less range in colder weather anyway.

I don't have any card ... but previous owner may have also omit to return some cards, like the WfIi password.

Anyhow ... Cobra or not ... here it will make a little difference: if the car has a market interest on the stolen business arena there is no alarm that will save the car. Luckily it is not a popular car here, and hybrid is a special segment ... so ... this should make me safe in this aspect

About range, I did program the timer at the source ... since the car timer was not working fine (possibly it is working now after I disabled the WiFi) .. still is more energy efficient (and it is proven to work) to power up charge and car when the electricity is cheaper for me (I can also program the 2 segment of day with cheap electricity, vs only one supported by car timer) .. and the cheap electricity end around 1h before I start the car in the morning .. so I need to run timer heat up on battery only

Anyhow, 3 to 5 km range lost is not an issue for my 25km daily usage.

Having a car pre heat and running with heating switch off ... it is maybe even more energy efficient .. clearly .. driving in the "total" cold .. with only car sit heated .. it is even more energy friendly ...
 
If you have no Driver Card it will not have a Cobra electronic drive lock.
A Cobra Class 3 (which most if not all are) alarm features an immobilizer. Otherwise it was not a Class 3 alarm. The Cobra Driver Cards option adds an extra immobilizer.
 
elm70 said:
jaapv said:
Anyhow ... Cobra or not ... here it will make a little difference: if the car has a market interest on the stolen business arena there is no alarm that will save the car. Luckily it is not a popular car here, and hybrid is a special segment ... so ... this should make me safe in this aspect
Well, given that a Cobra Alarm (+immobilizer ;) ) is not that easily deactivated and that a Bearlock requires the replacement of the whole steering column assembly to make the car driveable the only option for a thief would be to load it onto a trailer, with a screaming alarm and with the steering wheel locked straight ahead, I might imagine that they would be looking for an easier target.
 
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