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user 5728

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2021
Messages
23
Almost 4 years PHEV driving in spring 2024. I love the car as a trustful and comfortable helper. It's my 2nd Outlander. The German diesel gate drove me to swap cars. It's been a good swap obviously. The swap happened just before the pandemic, with driving being cut down to half of what it used to be before. I'm using the car full range in the way that I don't fear running the fuel engine (ICU). Many driving distances for me are mid range, so that the battery could not cover in full in EV mode. I'm then trying to use both modes for best coverage. At the beginning, I tried to excessively limit driving to EV mode and played with the recuperation levels up and down to the results that regardless of action it wouldn't have significant effects to the overall range. The way the Outlander operates both engines is brilliant. However, 50km summer range battery power has its physical limits you can't come around.

Over time I have test driven almost all tool-tips for recuperation and drive mode usage. The Sport mode is great fun to play with too. The system has great power for speeding up on the roads where necessary.
What works best for me is using the Save mode for re-charging the battery on long distance rides. As the Save mode operates the battery in a load window to keep the battery at level whilst the ICU constantly adds energy to the battery that's not needed for driving. From time to time the ICU stops and the additional load will be driven off down until the low end of the load window. It is possible to hard-move the load window by switching to the EV mode right when the ICU stopped. Turn back to Safe mode very shortly after to reset or adjust the load window to the current state of the battery. The current state of the battery is the prior load level plus the additional summed ICU load. This way it is possible to stair-climb the battery to 60% total load to be used later off motorways. This is a manual way of battery charging consuming less fuel than the alternativ Charge mode.

The Outlander is made for long distances with comfort that allows relaxed driving for hours. Instead of the internal MMCS I'm almost always running Apple Car play, the iPhone connected to USB for better sound quality than Bluethooth. As I like music a lot, USB connect allows using CD or Highres audio from the Qobuz app. After almost 4 years, I have the impression that software updates are going to stress CarPlay performance. Lately, screen touch interactivity has been difficult.

For the most part I'm loading at home using the enclosed brick loader. But anytime where it makes sense I like loading at stops. A type 1 to type 2 adapter leaves no gaps though.

Actually, many people made compliments about the red sparkling color. That made me proud of having made a great choice. Anytime after washing it gloomy re-shines in the sun that I really enjoy.

2023-12-30_14-38-48.jpg2023-12-30_14-41-10.jpg
 
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Almost 4 years PHEV driving in spring 2024. I love the car as a trustful and comfortable helper. It's my 2nd Outlander. The German diesel gate drove me to swap cars. It's been a good swap obviously. The swap happened just before the pandemic, with driving being cut down to half of what it used to be before. I'm using the car full range in the way that I don't fear running the fuel engine (ICU). Many driving distances for me are mid range, so that the battery could not cover in full in EV mode. I'm then trying to use both modes for best coverage. At the beginning, I tried to excessively limit driving to EV mode and played with the recuperation levels up and down to the results that regardless of action it wouldn't have significant effects to the overall range. The way the Outlander operates both engines is brilliant. However, 50km summer range battery power has its physical limits you can't come around.

Over time I have test driven almost all tool-tips for recuperation and drive mode usage. The Sport mode is great fun to play with too. The system has great power for speeding up on the roads where necessary.
What works best for me is using the Save mode for re-charging the battery on long distance rides. As the Save mode operates the battery in a load window to keep the battery at level whilst the ICU constantly adds energy to the battery that's not needed for driving. From time to time the ICU stops and the additional load will be driven off down until the low end of the load window. It is possible to hard-move the load window by switching to the EV mode right when the ICU stopped. Turn back to Safe mode very shortly after to reset or adjust the load window to the current state of the battery. The current state of the battery is the prior load level plus the additional summed ICU load. This way it is possible to stair-climb the battery to 60% total load to be used later off motorways. This is a manual way of battery charging consuming less fuel than the alternativ Charge mode.

The Outlander is made for long distances with comfort that allows relaxed driving for hours. Instead of the internal MMCS I'm almost always running Apple Car play, the iPhone connected to USB for better sound quality than Bluethooth. As I like music a lot, USB connect allows using CD or Highres audio from the Qobuz app. After almost 4 years, I have the impression that software updates are going to stress CarPlay performance. Lately, screen touch interactivity has been difficult.

For the most part I'm loading at home using the enclosed brick loader. But anytime where it makes sense I like loading at stops. A type 1 to type 2 adapter leaves no gaps though.

Actually, many people made compliments about the red sparkling color. That made me proud of having made a great choice. Anytime after washing it gloomy re-shines in the sun that I really enjoy.

View attachment 1007View attachment 1008
Beautiful color. I had an 18 and a 21 PHEV. Like you, I plays around like a piano player with all the choice buttons. Actually, I came to the conclusion that the software engineers are better at it than I am. I began to just get in it and drive it and let it do it's thing. Happy with that. With the price drop, I jumped on the opportunity to grab a Model Y. (same color as yours). Very pleased with it. In the winter, here. One of the things I love...by the time I've gone 100 yards, I have heat in the steering wheel, heat in the seat and heat coming out the vents! Pretty cool!
 
With the price drop, I jumped on the opportunity to grab a Model Y.
Same idea here to consider the model Y. What annoys me with T is the limitation to Spotify for streaming. Other than that I always felt the interior appears to be clean or sterile in the front. How is the sound system sounding?
 
Same idea here to consider the model Y. What annoys me with T is the limitation to Spotify for streaming. Other than that I always felt the interior appears to be clean or sterile in the front. How is the sound system sounding?
Outstanding sound system. I subscribed to Tune In Radio, which gives you live news / sports stations...also local. Tesla it's own set of streaming channels, plus Spotify and Slacker. I've been fine with the options, but I know others wish their favorite was there. Tesla seems to really not want many platforms that are not theirs in their system!
 
What works best for me is using the Save mode for re-charging the battery on long distance rides. As the Save mode operates the battery in a load window to keep the battery at level whilst the ICU constantly adds energy to the battery that's not needed for driving. From time to time the ICU stops and the additional load will be driven off down until the low end of the load window. It is possible to hard-move the load window by switching to the EV mode right when the ICU stopped. Turn back to Safe mode very shortly after to reset or adjust the load window to the current state of the battery. The current state of the battery is the prior load level plus the additional summed ICU load. This way it is possible to stair-climb the battery to 60% total load to be used later off motorways. This is a manual way of battery charging consuming less fuel than the alternativ Charge mode.
There are several mode which we can choose in Outlander PHEV. I also think a little bit different term according to the continent. I am new to Outlander PHEV in US and my MY is 2022.

So I searched internet and forum to get familiar to this new used car.

I thought that SAVE mode is saving mode of gasoline but it was not. SAVE mode means EV mode will not use the battery power for driving disregarding battery level exceeds min for Hybrid. Thus "SAVE" means maintaining current battery level until it turns off.

I thought that CHARGE mode is charging battery during driving. And when it finishes charging, we can use fully(actually 80%) charged battery when EV mode is needed. But it shouldn't be understood as described.

Lots of people is concerning about which mode selection is best for saving gasoline. I read some of their experience and data sheets and following is my conclusion.

1. Using generator during driving by selecting charge mode use more gas than normal mode. ICE uses 1.3 gallons to charge 10kwh while driving.
2. 10kwh is the energy to run electric motor for 19 miles. On the contrary, 1.3 gallon gas covers 34 miles.
3. Under CHARGE mode when idling needs under 1/2 gallons for full charge. So, Charging when idling consumes HALF gasoline than charging while driving.
4. According to such data result, CHARGE is for charging the battery NOT for EV driving purpose. It is better to use battery while car is not driving, like camping, or emergency power supply.

Don't expect charge mode during driving can save gas. More extra gas burns only for charging.
 
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There are several mode which we can choose in Outlander PHEV. I also think a little bit different term according to the continent. I am new to Outlander PHEV in US and my MY is 2022.

So I searched internet and forum to get familiar to this new used car.

I thought that SAVE mode is saving mode of gasoline but it was not. SAVE mode means EV mode will not use the battery power for driving disregarding battery level exceeds min for Hybrid. Thus "SAVE" means maintaining current battery level until it turns off.

I thought that CHARGE mode is charging battery during driving. And when it finishes charging, we can use fully(actually 80%) charged battery when EV mode is needed. But it shouldn't be understood as described.

Lots of people is concerning about which mode selection is best for saving gasoline. I read some of their experience and data sheets and following is my conclusion.

1. Using generator during driving by selecting charge mode use more gas than normal mode. ICE uses 1.3 gallons to charge 10kwh while driving.
2. 10kwh is the energy to run electric motor for 19 miles. On the contrary, 1.3 gallon gas covers 34 miles.
3. Under CHARGE mode when idling needs under 1/2 gallons for full charge. So, Charging when idling consumes HALF gasoline than charging while driving.
4. According to such data result, CHARGE is for charging the battery NOT for EV driving purpose. It is better to use battery while car is not driving, like camping, or emergency power supply.

Don't expect charge mode during driving can save gas. More extra gas burns only for charging.

Yet, somehow you misunderstood the charge mode in my opinion.
When you drive on long roads /highway you charge your battery.
Then, entering the city, go to ev mode.
And you do it like that all the time.
Charging on long road consumes less gasoline than driving in hybrid mode at low speeds, hence in town.
 
Yet, somehow you misunderstood the charge mode in my opinion.
When you drive on long roads /highway you charge your battery.
Then, entering the city, go to ev mode.
And you do it like that all the time.
Charging on long road consumes less gasoline than driving in hybrid mode at low speeds, hence in town
I totally agree and have confirmed this with my 2018 and 2022. Unfortunately I have not had the opportunity to this test with my now 2024, yet

20241010_180509.jpg

I have not yet found a screen that shows total kWhr consumed during the trip, just the average.

Nor how much power in kWhs was used to charge the Main Battery. My 2018 had this. My 2022 did not and neither does the 2024. Like I have said before, seems like Mitsubishi is taking 1 step forward and 2 steps back.

Only way I can do it so far is to Charge car to full. Reset Screen. Drive till my Battery is deleted, Charge the Battery to full again and note how many kWhr were used to charge by using the Battery Level Bars. Still searching, if anyone has run across the appropriate screen, please chime in.
 
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