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Since the Japanese also drive on the correct side of the road, that seems unlikely.

My (now antique, but top end 3 years ago) Nexus 6, continually drops in and out of Bluetooth if I have it switched on. For me, it's not important enough to waste time investigating.

Presumably, that's just saying that it can utilise a 32A (8kW) power source, where available.

Round here (lots of 15% hills), if I couldn't select at least B3, I'd have to use the brake to hold my speed. And slowing while on downhill stretches needs B5.

Yes, the lowest UK spec ('Juro') has the paddles. Can you still change the braking effect using the 'gear knob'? D is equivalent to B2, but you can increase that to B3 with one backward press and then a second takes it to B5 - but there's no way to reduce it using the knob (except by going...

Seems we're exempt :)

There's a front (and also side) camera as well, you can activate them by using the 'camera' button on the 'top left' of the steering wheel buttons (on my model, anyway).

It all depends - do you typically charge overnight? Then an off-peak deal may be advantageous, particularly if you don't use a lot of electricity for other purposes. Some suppliers can provide cheap(er) access to charging points, so if you use them a lot, that could be a significant factor in...

That's almost certainly what is happening. The graphic is being generated independently of the choice of units, with only the vertical scale changing - so for one set of units it will be increasing and for the other decreasing. I believe Japan uses km/l (so the 'same way up' as mpg).

I did a similar calculation, gobiman, and reached the same conclusion (albeit mine was leased by the business rather than purchased).

You're very fortunate that one of the two plug-in cabs in London didn't want to use it at the same time, greendwarf :)

True, but Charge forces the ICE to run all the time, until the battery reaches a sufficient level (~80% indicated charge). Unless there's something you need that extra charge level for, it's consuming unnecessary petrol.

twosout nails it! The reason for the Charge button is that if you're taking the car up a very long, very steep hill (particularly when towing) the ICE alone will not suffice to maintain speed and battery assistance will be required. If you start from a state of charge that's already low...

You can get 300 miles (with a following wind and a light foot), but almost certainly not 400. As for fuel efficiency, you can find lots of conflicting advice on here: use B0 / no, use B5; always use the charge button on motorways / no, never use the charge button; but IMHO the difference it...

Yes 18 miles should be within range, particularly with the (slightly) larger battery in the new model. It might depend on how many hills there are in the way, but at the very least you should get 90% of the way there. I expect about 35 mpg cruising at 75 mph, once the electricity is exhausted...

Perfectly normal (actually well towards the 'good' end of normal). You can rarely, if ever expect to see the nominal maximum range*, even on a brand new car. And it isn't called a 'guessometer' for nothing, it's an estimate of electric range available based on previous driving patterns. *...

It (obviously) depends on how much you pay for electricity, but 14p per kWh is probably in the right ball park for a normal UK contract (you can get cheaper rates for off-peak electricity). On that basis you're saying that you're using roughly 1kW before you plug in. If you can charge the car...

#metoo My only (very) slight gripe is the s-l-o-w rate at which the tailgate opens - Jags and Volvos (at least) seem to open up roughly twice as fast. This means you have to operate it from quite a way off in order for it to be open when you reach the car and I've sometimes been 'out of range'...

D performs exactly the same as B2 - only the display is different :)

Yes, on my driveway (15% gradient) the PHEV will descend slowly while in reverse, if I take both feet off the pedals. I only ever do this for a metre or two.