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Mitsubishi initially supplied a charging lead with a 15A plug, the charger actually only draws 10A max. Later they decided to provide a lead with a standard 10A plug, this one will charge at 8A maximum.

Same here... done it a few times and it doesn't feel good.. incidentally, that really applies to any car with auto transmission, not just the PHEV.

I would definitely put my foot on the brake before releasing the handbrake! If you look at how the transmission lock works, it is definitely not a good idea to let it hold the car on a steep slope.

Looks like the MY2017 will happen here in Australia before too long.. you can register your interest at the MMA website already.....

I actually had a nail stuck in a rear tyre the very first week... it was a slow leak and it gave me a chance to test the included compressor, which actually works well and I managed to just drive to the local tyre place and have it fixed. Now I carry a set of plugs, I have used them a few times...

Well, had mine for 15 months now. I live in Sydney and I bought a used one with 10,000km on it. Very happy with the car, it does what I bought it for as I do mainly very short trips, so I rarely put fuel in it. I have a 1.5kW solar system and it generates almost exactly what my car uses in a day...

Can someone with the australian spec car check if the rear fog lights are operating? Had occasion today to use them but could only turn on the front ones. When I got home I inspected the rear lights, and it would appear they are just reflectors, no bulbs fitted.

That's probably the least accurate way to judge the battery capacity, in fact, pretty useless unless it shows 10 miles consistently....

Or balancing the dealer's books? I would have thought that the BMS would take care of this every time you charge it? I guess if the car is charged exclusively with a fast charger it may become necessary.

As far as I know reverse cycle does not work all that well in very low temperatures.

or just Charge ahead :mrgreen:

Or a 20l Jerry can full of petrol on the roof....... :lol:

The range displayed means little as far as battery condition is concerned. It varies a lot depending on how the last few km were driven before charging. I have had mine as high as 70km!, usually it is between 40 and 50, it drops 10 as soon as the aircon is turned on.

I think the simplest way to get an idea is to just measure what goes in when it has been run down to --- range. Can easily be done with the MMCS by looking at the charge cost (set it to 1.00 to get a direct kWh figure) The highest I have seen on mine is 9.7, now it is usually around 9. Assuming...

It is interesting, while we're talking about an increased battery capacity for the Outlander, looking at the list at what is available in the market now, the PHEV is still right up there as far as range goes for plug-ins. For the time being, I think extra weight would be the killer if there is...

This thread swerved off the road :D

Yes, and how many of those 25000 with the system installed would not have been stolen anyway.......... People are getting a bit paranoid :roll:

Somewhere in the Mitsubishi documentation I saw a reference that stated the battery is not a maintenance item expected to be replaced, specifically it said that it is expected that the battery retains 80% of capacity for the life of the vehicle (maybe 8 or 10 years). It is an "expectation", not...

Do you use the MMCS reported input or an external power meter? I use both, the external meter usually reports a bit more, yesterday it indicated 9.2kWh vs 9 by the MMCS. This difference (about 200-300Wh) is quite consistent on full charges. I don't know if the MMCS measures input to the battery...

Have you recently measured what actually goes in when you do a full charge from say 1 or no bars on the display?