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It's wishful thinking that the battery will warm itself to normal state by using it - charging it at -20F (-30C). The heat pump wont make a dent to preheating the vehicle as well. Last winter I have read some stories regarding those new PHEVs without battery heaters that can't be even started...

This startup sequence definitely don't work on some models, Canadian for sure. Mine engine was firing after one minute of driving under 5C temperatures (all HVAC off) After I did an BMU reset and DBCAM the situation have changed for sure. Now the threshold is around -5C (below freezing).

Since January is almost a year and the car has only 2-3 power and consumption info screens so basically nothing special, at least my2018. I don't know over what finer point you plan to argue with the dealer and for what reason but from warranty point of view there is a clear margin under which...

The advantage is I can go from Canada to Florida in 2 days without planing whole week my stops and have an anxiety if charging stations are working or available while my daily commute is 100% electric.

littlescrote said it right regarding how my vehicle behave and what aprox. I would do on trip like that. Will run in EV all the way to 20%-30% battery just to have some buffer for unexpected traffic or even 50% if big mountain ahead and will hit Charge. Will turn it off once I have enough...

Well you can see for yourself the information available on your vehicle screen then what the phevwatchdog can do on their site. Almost everything phevwatchdog can do is over and above what information is available in the PHEV's own information screens. The most useful is battery report, SOH...

Well yes, fully charging will balance the cells but doesn't need to be daily or to stay fully charged for prolonged time. I fully charge it as well but prior driving it and when I will go on trips over the battery range.

What modification!? If you are talking about the fact that I am disabling the engine on short winter trips... then the engine is disabled there is no parallel nor series at all. If the disabling switch is not ON then there is no any effect on the vehicle, all operate as designed. I am using it...

Keeping it fully charged or discharged for prolonged period is the worst for those batteries but if one need the full charge and can not anticipate when will need the vehicle there isn't much to be done. On watchdog you can definitely see if an reset has been done in the past.

https://phevwatchdog.net/ You can see what the app can do on their site.

If you won't drive it don't fully charge it. Leave it to aprox 80%. If you won't drive it for a long leave it at 50%. I suggest not to do the naughty reset cause you are going to degrade that battery even further and faster.

I believe you misnomer the terms parallel and series! From a cold engine it can't be in parallel but in series and only parallel requires correct speed range and power load capability. If on your vehicle Save can keep it in parallel... very good. Mine doesn't, it stays in series constantly.

I missed the highlighted part. Got it now. OK not actually a "nonsense" but when one have the option to do few 30min cycles on the engine instead of tens or even hundred cycles... switching on and off why not. Definitely more energy loss for all those startups.

Well I am doing exactly like you but instead of switching to Save I keep it in Charge (On/OFF) until I have reached a level to use up the electricity when efficient, to arrive empty. @jaapv: Charge is exactly the same as Save it also triggers the charge cycle at any charge level but one have to...

Which behaviour is nonsense, I didn't get it? That I prefer to control manually the level of charge and to turn off the Charge exactly when I have the level of charge I need and to let the engine run few long cycles instead of multiple short ones? I perfectly understand how pretty much any...

I can't comment on car's management system since there is no information regarding but only from experience. To have series or parallel the engine should be running so Save or Charge should be selected. My vehicle 2018, 50000km 85%SOH In Save mode it rarely stays in parallel, mostly series...

Well doesn't the same apply for "Save"!? "I'm 30km from my destination, should I turn off 'Save' yet?" Of course it does and if one don't turn it off it converts additional petrol to electrical energy. Obviously with "Charge" one can overkill it compared to "Save" but if one don't want to think...

Local specialized Mitsubishi garage or a regular one? If you have an OBD-II adapter post the watchdog battery result after.

The deal with the manual is that Charge mode is hard to be described for everyday regular user, it depends on circumstances, has to be monitored by the user and if one don't turn it off on time will use more fuel that needed to be used for that particular trip. While Save is more of a foolproof...

It is not the fuel lines, it is not the injectors, it is not the air intake. There is nothing wrong with all of that and your engine is fine. You should have started with the BMU reset, that's the culprit. 100% Don't worry about your engine, you should worry about your battery, you are...