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Extra driving light
- Thread starter kent
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Garrett
Active member
kent said:
I put in Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited bulbs for the high beam. They claim 110% more light. Don't know about that, but now I find the light output satisfactory.
Samuel
That's disappointing that a brand new vehicle doesn't have bright enough lights. Are they really bad, or is it more because you have come from a vehicle with very bright headlights so that is what you are used to (like a BMW with HID lights or similar)
Garrett
Active member
BobMarin said:
Actually the normal driving light is HID and is excellent. The problem is in the high beam section that is regular halogen bulb. With the original bulbs one could actually still see the border of the headlamp-xenon even when the high-beam was lit. With those Osram Unlimited HB3 bulbs the border is not visible.
I truly believed this car had Bi-Xenon headlights when I ordered it. Realised it only few weeks prior to delivery.
I have now replaced the front corner/parking light for led versions (W5W) - licence plate lights, too (also W5W) and the DRL lamps (P13W) with led-cones.
leifa
New member
Garrett said:
Did you have to use P13W bulbs for the DRL ligths which are for cars with Can-Bus (to avoid warning about bulbs not working)? Number of watts used (15W, 30W)?
Garrett
Active member
leifa said:
Just any bulb will do. I don't think PHEV has a blown bulb warning feature.
I had a PHEV on loan for a couple of days from the dealer and it had a LED bar mounted in the space below the numberplate. Looked very discrete, I don't like the look of usual extra lights.
It had an insanely bright highbeam and instant startup (the reflections from the roadsigns almost blinded me). Xenons usually take a while to reach full strength.
The bar looked like this, a Vision X. A bit pricy at €1200 but almost worth it.
It had an insanely bright highbeam and instant startup (the reflections from the roadsigns almost blinded me). Xenons usually take a while to reach full strength.
The bar looked like this, a Vision X. A bit pricy at €1200 but almost worth it.
Garrett
Active member
radphev said:
Oh yeah.
Forgot to mention. Don't buy the biggest led cones you can find... The shape of the reflector is smaller inside the lamp, so yes. The big cone with 50 or so leds, will not fit without some extra work. I used a grinder on the cones to make them fit. I managed to grind about half a millimeter around the edges without none of the led going off. Then I just stuck them to the lamps. I think I cannot take them off without destroying them, though. It was more like a forced install.jaapv
Well-known member
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/300997820191?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Hi
I have also changed the standard Halogen high beam (HB3/9005) to 60w Xenon. Parking light’s to LED and Fog Lamp’s to LED. (I’m about to order LED’s to the DRL’s as well.)
So now I’m about to mount either 3x NBB Alpha 225 or 4x NBB Alpha 175 with xenon bulbs.
Since my car has Adaptive Cruise Control, all the standard mounting light bars doesn’t fit. (i.e. they place the lamps in front of the radar…) Had to have one custom made!
Where can I connect the relay plus cord? I guess I’ll be needing about 20-30A to the lamps. I’ve noticed the 12v battery in the trunk, but do I really have to mount my own + cord from the trunk?
I also need an extra switch to the extra lights, so that I can use the original high beam without the extra lights when it’s snowing and raining. Is there a simple way to mount this signal cable between engine bay and driver’s position?
Any ideas?
I have also changed the standard Halogen high beam (HB3/9005) to 60w Xenon. Parking light’s to LED and Fog Lamp’s to LED. (I’m about to order LED’s to the DRL’s as well.)
So now I’m about to mount either 3x NBB Alpha 225 or 4x NBB Alpha 175 with xenon bulbs.
Since my car has Adaptive Cruise Control, all the standard mounting light bars doesn’t fit. (i.e. they place the lamps in front of the radar…) Had to have one custom made!
Where can I connect the relay plus cord? I guess I’ll be needing about 20-30A to the lamps. I’ve noticed the 12v battery in the trunk, but do I really have to mount my own + cord from the trunk?
I also need an extra switch to the extra lights, so that I can use the original high beam without the extra lights when it’s snowing and raining. Is there a simple way to mount this signal cable between engine bay and driver’s position?
Any ideas?
Did you look in the fuse block, likely under the dash on the driver's side? There is usually an empty spot or two, where you can put in your own fuse and run a wire from there to your lights at the front.... I don't have my Outlander plug-in yet, so I can't help out
Hi Klaus
I checked yesterday. And yes, there is a fuse box under the hood.
There is also a connection point to use when start assistants is needed. Now I just have to find out how to connect to it in a professional and safe way. I don’t want it to look to “homemade”.
I checked yesterday. And yes, there is a fuse box under the hood.
There is also a connection point to use when start assistants is needed. Now I just have to find out how to connect to it in a professional and safe way. I don’t want it to look to “homemade”.
Hi,
as far as swapping the P13W DRL halogen bulbs for a LED model, AFAIK all the available "alternatives" will need quite extensive trimming work, as the base of the bulb is made out of non-resilient plastic and not spring-loaded metal as on the stock bulbs.
I ordered a set (only about 11 EUR) and after a bit of work got them to fit. I complained about the trimming to the seller, and immediately got a full refund - nice.
However, as a pure DRL, the output is not really something to write home about. The color is OK, but because the LED's are not positioned ideally in front of the reflector, it's not all that visible.
Tomorrow I'll be receiving a set of Devil Eyes 2-in-1 combined LED DRL/foglight which I hope will fit and yield a correct output, in DRL and foglight mode.
At 95 EUR it's more expensive, but also 100% legal, which the LED bulb solution isn't.
as far as swapping the P13W DRL halogen bulbs for a LED model, AFAIK all the available "alternatives" will need quite extensive trimming work, as the base of the bulb is made out of non-resilient plastic and not spring-loaded metal as on the stock bulbs.
I ordered a set (only about 11 EUR) and after a bit of work got them to fit. I complained about the trimming to the seller, and immediately got a full refund - nice.
However, as a pure DRL, the output is not really something to write home about. The color is OK, but because the LED's are not positioned ideally in front of the reflector, it's not all that visible.
Tomorrow I'll be receiving a set of Devil Eyes 2-in-1 combined LED DRL/foglight which I hope will fit and yield a correct output, in DRL and foglight mode.
At 95 EUR it's more expensive, but also 100% legal, which the LED bulb solution isn't.
Hi,
The lights arrived this morning - and before noon the test phase ended.
One light was defective, and the other one gave off so little light in the DRL position that it was utterly ridiculous.
They're back in the shipping box and will be returned on Monday.
This is NOT a good idea - thank God I bought them via Amazoon who has a hassle-free return policy.
The lights arrived this morning - and before noon the test phase ended.
One light was defective, and the other one gave off so little light in the DRL position that it was utterly ridiculous.
They're back in the shipping box and will be returned on Monday.
This is NOT a good idea - thank God I bought them via Amazoon who has a hassle-free return policy.
Hi (again),
as this thread is about extra driving lights, something on-topic :
While the NBB Alpha lights are certainly impressive I wonder if it's not slightly technical overkill??
I solved the issue of weak high beams far more easily - by putting in a set of HB3 Xenon burners.
The installation is very easy - the only problem being that you have to pass two cables through the high beam lamp covers. You'll need a hole saw - the rubber passthrough is furnished with the Xenon kit.
High beam is now excellent - at least for driving on normal roads at legal speeds.
The cost is only a fraction of any kind of supplementary lights - and these will not get stolen.
Incidentally, these Xenon burners are now serving on their third vehicle. They started out in 2007 on a Lexus RX 400h, from 2009-2014 they have been used on a Toyota Prius III, and now on the Outlander PHEV.
Kind regards,
Krouebi
as this thread is about extra driving lights, something on-topic
:While the NBB Alpha lights are certainly impressive I wonder if it's not slightly technical overkill??
I solved the issue of weak high beams far more easily - by putting in a set of HB3 Xenon burners.
The installation is very easy - the only problem being that you have to pass two cables through the high beam lamp covers. You'll need a hole saw - the rubber passthrough is furnished with the Xenon kit.
High beam is now excellent - at least for driving on normal roads at legal speeds.
The cost is only a fraction of any kind of supplementary lights - and these will not get stolen.
Incidentally, these Xenon burners are now serving on their third vehicle. They started out in 2007 on a Lexus RX 400h, from 2009-2014 they have been used on a Toyota Prius III, and now on the Outlander PHEV.
Kind regards,
Krouebi
The problem with just replacing your Halogen high beams with a xenon kit is the start up time of the xenons. They take a while to reach full strength every time you turn them on and might not be suitable as your only high beam.
@fragge,
yes, this is correct for older Xenon kits like mine - but apparently (see the link above) newer ones start quicker.
And anyhow the delay is only noticeable the very first time you turn on the high beams - subsequently they turn on almost instantly.
One should not forget that the low beam Xenons stay on - so it's not like you're driving in the dark until the high beams heat up.
Kind regards,
Krouebi
yes, this is correct for older Xenon kits like mine - but apparently (see the link above) newer ones start quicker.
And anyhow the delay is only noticeable the very first time you turn on the high beams - subsequently they turn on almost instantly.
One should not forget that the low beam Xenons stay on - so it's not like you're driving in the dark until the high beams heat up.
Kind regards,
Krouebi
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