Triple Procedure & Setup (Costs around 80USD)

[Mitch]

deleted, (user) problem fixed

 

[Lon12]

Canadian 2018 model here:

Finaly got some time to play around with the car today. Here are my conclusions of the 'triple procedure'. I used the Mitsubishi MUT-III SE software and a non-mitsubishi J2534 adapter.

1) BMU reset takes about 2 seconds to execute. Not clear to me what it does
2) Cell smothing is just a balancing. Since my cells were within 0.005V, it ran for maybe 10 seconds
3) DBCAM: looked at the numbers, MUT-III confirmed my 32.8Ah capacity I was getting from the dog. (43 000km, 17 months old). I ran the thing and it complained about not charging. Plugged the car in (was down to about 2 bars of battery), re-clicked the item and after 10 seconds it said 'done'. Whaaaat? This is not working? So I shut down the car and as soon as I hit the power button and the dash went dark, the fans started running full blast. The car was running the A/C and the heating at the same time! The radiator fans kicked in quite a bit. I was worried that the car would get too hot in my garage (32*C day), so I sparayed the radiator with my garden hose every 3-4 minutes. The car discharged it's 2 bars in about 20 minutes and continued a good half-hour. Visibly, it is discharging the battery way lower than when driving. Once this madness stopped, it started charging. Took about 5h. Now the dog shows 35.9Ah!

So it did measure 10% more capacity that the calculated degradation. I'll confirm tomorrow on my way to work if this translated to real usable range, as my engine kicks in at the very same spot everyday.

EDIT: Did the same trip as everyday this morning, the engine kicked in 4km later (next highway exit). This is directly inline with the raised capacity. This Ah reported in the dog is no bullshit, this is really what the car uses to determine the "30%" SOC to start the engine.

fprigge thanks for this update. I also have a 2018 Canadian model with only 22,000 km and now at 32.6 Ah. My dealership in Calgary won't entertain doing anything with my battery unless Mitsubishi tells them to. So I will probably have to use your procedure myself. Would be great if you lived close and could assist.

 

[obiuquido144]

Just want to provide some information on the author of the MUT patch / custom driver loader, Nikolay Fadeev.
I initially felt quite negatively about sending money to a random person's Russian Paypal address, but after a bit of googling I am satisfied that Nikolay is legitimately delivering great amount of reverse engineering / software work to the Mitsubishi car community, often for free. So NOT a random script kiddie trying to make a quick buck by trivially repackaging something or using other people's work for own profit.

Some links:
https://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/27-car-audio-video-electronics/72588-mmcodingwriter-free-software-change-etacs-ecu-coding.html
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mmcodingwriter/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mmcodingwriter/permalink/2304227892954196/
https://vk.com/passthrudriver

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjxHfA_0ajI

 

[ThudnBlundr]

Hmm - someone joins the forum and their first (and so far only) post is saying that we shouldn't worry about sending money to a Russian paypal address. If I was cynical, I might wonder who this person is.

 

[Mitch]

Maybe you are right, but I can confirm, Nikolay is absolut nice guy, very supportive if it comes to issues.
I also bought this driver and it is working.
He has also some other usefull tools for our car for free.

And I'm not a new user or 1 time poster

 

[obiuquido144]

@Mitch how did you fix your issue? I have the same connection problem when trying to enter the BMU menu.

@ThudnBlundr Yes I'd be cynical too That's why I included the links to help everyone make up their own opinion. I've been a reader of the forum for 3 years btw, only just registered now. I can add to my report that I actually got a driver after paying money to the Paypal address - could have gone a lot worse

 

[Mitch]

use the old version 18091

 

[obiuquido144]

Versions PRE18121 and PRE19031 don't work. PRE18091 works.
Procedure: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=38503#p38503
There are two items "1. Control information reset" and "2. BATT.capa. estimated info. reset".
Item 2 alone results in 40Ah SOH, 60 days battery age, AC/DC 0Ah and Usage 0Ah.

There's also the new D-method ("Dublin") where people use a deeply discharged aux battery to around 6V before the Lindqvist steps (as reported today by UnpluggedEv Andy).

 

[obiuquido144]

Turns out that both reset steps ("1. Control Information Reset" and "2. BATT.capa. estimated info. reset") are needed to actually get more charge and more range.

Interestingly when only the Capacity Estimate Reset is done, the Dog and the MMCS show 40Ah and numbers* that indicate capacity increase, but in reality the BMU appears to be using the scalar SOC value (which interestingly doesn't change after just the BattCapaEstimate step) to control the charge and stops the charge at exactly the same point as before.
Only when also the ControlInfoReset is performed will the SOC jump down approx 8pct points / several Ah, which seems to give the charger more headroom to push more charge in. Also the SOH jumps from 40 to 38Ah similarly to how during Lindqvist it goes from the initial 40Ah (with errors on dash) to 38Ah on next ignition start.

*such as in the MMCS cost calculator, the MMCS range guess-o-meter, the Dog's charge SOH difference calculator on the main battery screen (Battery Condition screen and AC/DC metric appears to report true Ah data as seen by the BMU's coulomb counter)

 

[obiuquido144]

Also remember that if you're doing these resets and don't follow it up with a DBCAM, you're not doing the "Triple procedure", thus risk driving the traction battery voltage too far down with, among others, a potential unexpected turtle mode consequence as reported by some people who did the Lindqvist and who needed to hit the CHARGE button to get out of a sticky low power situation.

On the other hand doing the DBCAM too often will exhaust the 10 available measurement data positions and not sure what happens then, possibly not being able to reset again at all, not being able to reset to a value higher than the last written DBCAM result or similar...?

 

[obiuquido144]

Pro tip: before reset make sure you back up your BMU data for a potential restore using special function 'Write learned value (change ECU) - Learning value Read & save". This creates a LNDxxxxx.log file in C:\MUT3_SE\Temp\LNDDATA directory. The backup, to my knowledge, contains more information than the two values that can be written using the manual fallback procedure (Sum total time, i.e. battery secular age, and Chrg&dischrg integrated current, i.e. cycles - which is incorrectly referred to as "Travel distance” in the menu).

Once you do that can you please PM me and generously send me your backup :lol:

Regarding my comment about DBCAM slots, I've since learned from the documentation that the newest measurement always takes the top position, pushing all others down, i.e. there is no risk of running out of data slots.

 

[kolyandex]

Hello all. I'm an author of this driver. If you have a questions - welcome. :shock:

 

[Darkflow]

Hello all. I'm an author of this driver. If you have a questions - welcome. :shock:

Hello. Thanks for your work on the driver and for making it available.

Do you have a recommendation for which J2534 cable to get? I was planning on a generic $10 - $15 one from AliExpress.

 

[kolyandex]

Do you have a recommendation for which J2534 cable to get? I was planning on a generic $10 - $15 one from AliExpress.

For simple operation Mini-VCI works well. For harder (writing variant coding) - Tactrix Openport 2.0 preferred.

 

[michael8554]

Hi Nikolay

There are three "Driver J2534 Pass-Thru" on your link.

8000, 3000, and 1000 Rouble.

Which one is required for the Triple Procedure please?

I have managed to reset with the Diode Method, but would like to do it again "correctly"

 

[ScottyDont]

Do you have a recommendation for which J2534 cable to get? I was planning on a generic $10 - $15 one from AliExpress.

For simple operation Mini-VCI works well. For harder (writing variant coding) - Tactrix Openport 2.0 preferred.

That's great news, I already have a tactrix to flash my RX8 ecu.

 

[Mitch]

I can confirm, the driver is working perfect!
Also I can confirm, with a Mini VCI you are able to read all values and do some simple task like DBCAM, but no coding.

 

[kolyandex]

Hi Nikolay

There are three "Driver J2534 Pass-Thru" on your link.

8000, 3000, and 1000 Rouble.

Which one is required for the Triple Procedure please?

I have managed to reset with the Diode Method, but would like to do it again "correctly"

For this Mini-VCI and 3000 ruble driver is enough.

 

[michael8554]

Thankyou.

I will order the drivers when I get the mini VCI and get it checked out as good.

 

[ScottyDont]

Ordered the driver and Nikolay responded very quickly. I have only read the BMU data so far but there has been no compatibility issues with a genuine tactrix openport 2.0 and x64 windows 10.