MadTechNutter
Well-known member
Introduction:
This is a 2014 model with 108,000 km on the clock. It is driven 98% of the time as an EV, always charged from home using a slow charger. Up to now it has never shown any problem when driving purely electric where I use the regenerative braking a lot, I try not to touch the brake pedal at all.
I have read here hopefully all posts, regarding the RBS error and ruled out the AUX battery and it’s connections as the cause.
Based on what I read it would seem Mitsubishi dealers are clueless when it comes to this error, particularly in regional areas of Australia when I reside and drive.
DIY solution seems the only feasible way and I am hoping and would be grateful if other members might be able to assist with their experience.
The Story:
I travel 3 times a year to a location about 300km from my home where I have to use the ICE.
On the last return trip after about 30km the RBS error and EV system service required was displayed alternately.
No other error was displayed. The car went into limp mode and the ICE was obviously not working despite being set to “Charge” I only had about 8km left on the guessometer, I was driving in a hilly winding narrow road with no safe place to stop and it was raining heavily.
My foot was shaking on the accelerator because I was in a state of panic and the car barely made it up the hills.
I was still driving a few km with - - on display until I finally found a safe place to stop.
I shut the car down, waited 10 seconds and booted it up again, what you typically do with a faulty (usually Windows) computer and the errors were gone. I pressed the charge button and the ICE kicked in and started to charge the battery. After about 20 minutes I had 8km range showing on the guessometer, it had stopped raining and I was about 10km from the next town so I dared to drive again.
A couple of km later when it got a bit hilly again the dreaded RBS error showed and it went into only electric limp mode again. I was driving already slow and hardly touched the brake.
I made it into the town, it was Saturday afternoon and all workshops are closed. I would have to book a hotel for 2 nights until there were open but it is holiday season and all the hotels I rang were booked out. In hind site that was actually lucky.
I left the ICE running in idle, probably for an hour and got the battery bar around ¾ full and thought I would give it a try, I could still come back if I am just 20 km out of the town and sure enough I made it all the way home with no errors even at higher speeds. The roads where flat but I still needed to use the brakes or slow down with regen but left the paddles at B2 or B3. Initially I was mostly driving in parallel hybrid but I didn’t dare switch off the ICE and drain the battery like I usually do on the highway, so the next 90km it was running as series hybrid which I never did that long before. Then when I was 30km from my destination I switched off the ICE and drained the battery diving at 110km until it showed 6km range, engaged the ICE (now back to parallel hybrid) but the error did not show anymore but this was just plain flat highway so I used the brakes and accelerated a few times on purpose to try to simulate a hilly situation.
Watchdog shows 0.012V max cell difference.
I currently have 22.7Ah capacity (a tad under 60%) however I only lost 0.1Ah capacity in the last 10weeks which is quite good, although I have been driving a bit less lately.
So that is all the info I can think of right now and to me this does NOT look like a faulty drive battery or an actual problem with the brakes.
And a problem with the ICE would have shown up on the following 250km of highway averaging speed of 110km/h.
Nevertheless first on my list is to reset the BMS and do a dbcam. I Found a recent thread on this forum where a few members could do this with a specific Thinkdiag ODB2 scanner dongle which I have now ordered.
https://www.myoutlanderphev.com/thr...er-with-screenshots-for-phev-up-to-2022.6686/
However I could not find much more info here regarding other features of the Thinkdiag in relation to the PHEV.
I have never used these dongles other than the one I use to connect the watchdog to check the state of my battery.
I am wondering if anybody successfully deleted corrupt data or figured out how to find more conclusive info that might be stored somewhere after such error messages.
Any info about this could be helpful.
This is a 2014 model with 108,000 km on the clock. It is driven 98% of the time as an EV, always charged from home using a slow charger. Up to now it has never shown any problem when driving purely electric where I use the regenerative braking a lot, I try not to touch the brake pedal at all.
I have read here hopefully all posts, regarding the RBS error and ruled out the AUX battery and it’s connections as the cause.
Based on what I read it would seem Mitsubishi dealers are clueless when it comes to this error, particularly in regional areas of Australia when I reside and drive.
DIY solution seems the only feasible way and I am hoping and would be grateful if other members might be able to assist with their experience.
The Story:
I travel 3 times a year to a location about 300km from my home where I have to use the ICE.
On the last return trip after about 30km the RBS error and EV system service required was displayed alternately.
No other error was displayed. The car went into limp mode and the ICE was obviously not working despite being set to “Charge” I only had about 8km left on the guessometer, I was driving in a hilly winding narrow road with no safe place to stop and it was raining heavily.
My foot was shaking on the accelerator because I was in a state of panic and the car barely made it up the hills.
I was still driving a few km with - - on display until I finally found a safe place to stop.
I shut the car down, waited 10 seconds and booted it up again, what you typically do with a faulty (usually Windows) computer and the errors were gone. I pressed the charge button and the ICE kicked in and started to charge the battery. After about 20 minutes I had 8km range showing on the guessometer, it had stopped raining and I was about 10km from the next town so I dared to drive again.
A couple of km later when it got a bit hilly again the dreaded RBS error showed and it went into only electric limp mode again. I was driving already slow and hardly touched the brake.
I made it into the town, it was Saturday afternoon and all workshops are closed. I would have to book a hotel for 2 nights until there were open but it is holiday season and all the hotels I rang were booked out. In hind site that was actually lucky.
I left the ICE running in idle, probably for an hour and got the battery bar around ¾ full and thought I would give it a try, I could still come back if I am just 20 km out of the town and sure enough I made it all the way home with no errors even at higher speeds. The roads where flat but I still needed to use the brakes or slow down with regen but left the paddles at B2 or B3. Initially I was mostly driving in parallel hybrid but I didn’t dare switch off the ICE and drain the battery like I usually do on the highway, so the next 90km it was running as series hybrid which I never did that long before. Then when I was 30km from my destination I switched off the ICE and drained the battery diving at 110km until it showed 6km range, engaged the ICE (now back to parallel hybrid) but the error did not show anymore but this was just plain flat highway so I used the brakes and accelerated a few times on purpose to try to simulate a hilly situation.
Watchdog shows 0.012V max cell difference.
I currently have 22.7Ah capacity (a tad under 60%) however I only lost 0.1Ah capacity in the last 10weeks which is quite good, although I have been driving a bit less lately.
So that is all the info I can think of right now and to me this does NOT look like a faulty drive battery or an actual problem with the brakes.
And a problem with the ICE would have shown up on the following 250km of highway averaging speed of 110km/h.
Nevertheless first on my list is to reset the BMS and do a dbcam. I Found a recent thread on this forum where a few members could do this with a specific Thinkdiag ODB2 scanner dongle which I have now ordered.
https://www.myoutlanderphev.com/thr...er-with-screenshots-for-phev-up-to-2022.6686/
However I could not find much more info here regarding other features of the Thinkdiag in relation to the PHEV.
I have never used these dongles other than the one I use to connect the watchdog to check the state of my battery.
I am wondering if anybody successfully deleted corrupt data or figured out how to find more conclusive info that might be stored somewhere after such error messages.
Any info about this could be helpful.
