Maximum EV Range

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fsimao222

Active member
Joined
Sep 7, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Olhão, Portugal
Hi Guys,
I'm a new owner of a 2017 Outlander PHEV ( Bought on 1st September).
Really nice car to drive around.
Yesterday I've made my maximum EV Range. 50,4kms.
I think its a really good range based on what I've seen in this forum and others.
The first 46 kms where easy to do, but in the last 4,4kms it was a real struggle (I really wanted to pass the 50kms barrier).

Those kms where made at a medium velocity of 70km/h in a relatively straight and flat road.
No air con and outside temperatures of 26º.

What is your maximum EV Range?
 
I managed just under 30 miles - about 46km - just once when the car was nearly new and under ideal conditions. These days at 3 years old, I reckon anything over 30km is pretty good.
 
In summer, without aircon ... with speed never above 80km/h ... also my 3+ year old with 130.000 km on the clock ... can make a bit over 45km of range ... but I never tried to get the best (for get the best it will be important to use the car immediately after the battery has been top up, even leaving on charge couple of hours after the battery has been top up, it will have a bit less juice in the battery)

As welll... in order to maximize EV range, yes, it is important to run the last km at very low power usage , else when EV range is zero / --- the ICE will kick in if power request is above some level (which is quite low) .. this allows to discharge the main battery down to 26% capacity .. vs 30% normal discharge level.
 
I have had my 2014 4hs model a couple of weeks and so still learning the best way to drive and maximise range. Today, achieved 27 miles before the ICE kicked in (43kms), which I am pretty pleased with! That included about 5 miles of 60mph driving, rest country roads and town, so was able to do a bit of regen. Outside temp approx 14 degrees (it is the north of England in September!). 45,000 miles on the clock.

Total trip was about 58 miles and achieved 72mpg, which I am finding is pretty average for the 60 mile trips I do frequently. The last 15 miles of these trips, returning home, I climb 900 feet in about 15 miles which just kills the mpg figures in the Outlander and our other car - Toyota Auris hybrid.

I was a little worried about battery capacity / efficiency on a 3 year old car. Looking at the charging history when I picked it up, it looked like it hadn't been charged for 2 months prior to me getting it, and quite intermittent before then - got the sense it was a lease car close to agreed mileage and so little use prior to being returned and sold.

On this trip, I used B0 quite a lot running into slower speed zones, rather than B2+; figured coasting might give slightly better range as opposed to maintaining speed longer then regenerating.

Really enjoying the car - just wish there were more non-Ecotricity fast chargers in my neck of the woods!
 
I drove 27 miles today with some regen and arrived home with guessometer reading 4 miles and small amount of blue on battery gauge (3h+ so no MMCS)
 
After one week with our Outlander, yesterday was my first day needing a tiny bit of petrol. Battery guess-o-meter looked certain to run out of charge 3 or 4 km from home, but after hitting zero it stayed electric with "---" remaining on the estimate until the last few hundred metres before the ICE finally started.

Unfortunately I didn't set a trip meter at the start of the day, but plotting all the routes on a map website this morning it added up to 50.5 km. That was with no hills, 50 to 80 km/h speed limits, in an almost new MY17 model.
 
My Outlander PHEV 2017 is 44500 KM showing poor milage (21 KM with AC and 30 KM without AC) on (EV only mode). How to improve milage on the EV battery?
Expecting expert opinions.
Thanks.
 
My Outlander PHEV 2017 is 44500 KM showing poor milage (21 KM with AC and 30 KM without AC) on (EV only mode). How to improve milage on the EV battery?
Expecting expert opinions.
Thanks.
Any hills or non-urban (i.e. higher speed driving). Also is that what the guess-o-meter reads or the actual distance travelled on a full charge?
 
MY 2020 model with 71500 km has NEVER given me 35 km range. I must admit I use the aircon when I need it. I travel 40 km one way and obviously on my way back I am on ICE. I travel on the highway +110 km/hr (maybe higher of I dot use sped control at 110).
When I top up and start the next run is says I can do +- 32 but by the time get tp the end of the block I am down to 29.
I have got to the point I just drive. When 'full' I am in 'B0' and when I get to 3/4 level I may switch to 'B4/5' if I remember.
When I go on a loner trip say over 150 km one way I just rune the ICE but notice that even with the battery level '---" I still get good EV usage when I check my TRIP setting and find that I have still used around 55/60% electric power and my fuel consumption at worst 8.0 km/100L and at best I have seen it at 6.7 per 100/km. That is pending the traffic flow.
My attitude now is just enjoy driving. I do an oil and filer change twice / year using synthetic oil. I don't worry too much about cost as I get 10c/L off when I fill up and it cost me around $50/ every say 5/6 weeks.
Never had any real issues apart from when the engine light came on and a AC sensor was to blame and the dealer fixed it under warranty.
I enjoy my PHEV. I have had many Mitsubishi's in my life span and all have been good.
 
I get around 30-35km of mixed rural and highway (steady 100kph) driving. 2017, bought new, battery SOH around 73% - but even when the car was new, I never got much more, maybe maximum 40km.

Although satisfied with the range, I will do a battery upgrade soon because I can and I could get 10 modules with relatively new LEV46 cells.

Will probably also install a kind of 'power bank' with new cells an the old CMUs run by SimpBMS behind the rear seats.
 
not to my knowledge.

Simplest way: get a plug-in electricity meter, something like this https://search.brave.com/images?q=plug-in electricity meter)

Drive your car slowly / rural traffic until it is empty. The car runs down the battery to around 25% when driven slowly, 30% when not.

If possible (means at least 'plus'-version, to my knowledge, the standard version has no preheat / pre-a/c), empty it even more by using preheating / pre-a/c until it shuts off, this will give you a defined starting point ald also gives the bms the chance to learn more about your battery.

then charge it using the supplied cord until it is full and measure the amount of electricity needed for a full charge

I would say everything over 8kWh for a <=2018 MJ / 9kWh for >2018MJ should be fine, because the battery has 12kWh, the car uses around 75% of it and the efficiency of the charger is somewhere around 0.9

this way, you can also have an exe on battery degradation
 
Any hills or non-urban (i.e. higher speed driving). Also is that what the guess-o-meter reads or the actual distance travelled on a full charge?
Thanks for your response. It is purely URBAN area. Plain roads and speed between 10 KM/H to 60KM/H.
 
Actual distance covered 21 Km with AC on.
Unfortunately, one of the problems with a hybrid is that lifetime distance travelled is no indicator of battery health unless you know the mix of EV to ICE. This is because the battery is limited to around 2000 full charge/discharge cycles. So a car used primarily for long journeys (i.e. mainly on ICE) will have a better EV range than one just used for short EV powered runs, even if the total mileages are similar.

On this basis the figures you quote do not seem too bad and frankly there is little you can do to improve them - sorry! 😥
 
Unfortunately, one of the problems with a hybrid is that lifetime distance travelled is no indicator of battery health unless you know the mix of EV to ICE. This is because the battery is limited to around 2000 full charge/discharge cycles. So a car used primarily for long journeys (i.e. mainly on ICE) will have a better EV range than one just used for short EV powered runs, even if the total mileages are similar.

On this basis the figures you quote do not seem too bad and frankly there is little you can do to improve them - sorry! 😥
Based on your 2000 number that only allows for 5 1/2 years of battery cycles...I have not read of people replacing batteries that soon.
 
Based on your 2000 number that only allows for 5 1/2 years of battery cycles...I have not read of people replacing batteries that soon.
Presumably because very few owners charge and discharge their batteries every 24 hours - however, as the battery does not charge to 100% nor discharge to zero i.e. each cycle is only 80%, will extend the time, as well.

NB. The figure comes from the Nissan Leaf class action in the US.
 
Another thing is the battery cooling on the new PHEV - made a big difference on the Teslas vs Leafat a decade out have 80%+ battery life left
 
I rarely heard that the decade old Prius required battery change. So hope that our MIT PHEV will last as well.
 
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