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gwatpe

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
1,102
Location
South Australia
The problems with my PHEV keep coming.

Here are some screens you do not want to see while driving.

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Was driving on highway when dash lit up like a christmas tree. Not all lights on though. Check engine light was not on.

Car started surging violently as RBS and engine fought each other through the drive train. Not good at 100kph on country road.

Found a place to pull over, and stop. Shut the car down as you would. Rebooted and instruments came on with ready as per normal. Car responded normally for about a mile, then system crashed again. No mobile phone service. Had to return back to the dealer under own power. Was able to turn around and drive carefully back to the dealer. Found that by turning OFF the Regen to B0, the car was driveable.

The faults that persisted have rendered the car unsafe to drive now. The car has presented with so many faults now. Mitsubishi Australia is involved now.

Car has had full battery and system diagnostics and no faults presented. Looks like this car is one of a kind as I have not seen much evidence of a systems failure in the manner I have suffered through. Maybe need a new car !!

Hoping I get to enjoy driving my PHEV in the way many others seem to.
 
I would not think it unreasonable for Mitsubushi to exchange the car if they cannot find the fault. I only had something like this once. On startup it ran through its whole list of faults. Switching off and on again restored normal operation.
 
Hi jaapv,

car is still with the dealer. Upgraded scan tool has revealed a few pages of error codes now in multiple systems. I hope to discuss options available soon.

Looks like faults have been in the computer controls system since new and the faults are propagating to other systems now and affecting the driving and safety of the car.

Maybe the computer is infected with a virus LOL.
 
gwatpe said:
Hi jaapv,

car is still with the dealer. Upgraded scan tool has revealed a few pages of error codes now in multiple systems. I hope to discuss options available soon.

Looks like faults have been in the computer controls system since new and the faults are propagating to other systems now and affecting the driving and safety of the car.

Maybe the computer is infected with a virus LOL.

Not a ridiculous suggestion! I don't know what operating system they use these days - the systems in the previous generation of Mitsubishis were apparently running Windows...
 
Car is still at dealer, but there is some light at the end of the tunnel.

Scan tool identified a defective rear wheel speed sensor in the list of fault codes. New replacement sourced from Japan. Seems the part is coded and the computer systems have to be factory reflashed to add the new code to the computer. Car seems to have initiated back to manufacturer settings and all fault codes are gone now.

I have to say that the computer systems seem to be vulnerable to instability with for example sensor failures. It seems as though the computer has been programmed to detect faulty sensors but still allow a faulty sensor to alter the safety control systems in the car in a way that causes the car to become dangerous to drive. I would have thought that with all the computing power available that surely the car could be made smart enough to intercept the sensor signal data and display an instrument warning with sensor failure, without allowing the fault to interfere with safety control systems.

Maybe this is something that the PHEV design team should be checking out thoroughly? It would not be good for a sensor failure to be linked to a high speed highway crash with possible loss of lives. This is really software in the car systems so should not be too difficult to fix in existing cars with a manufacturer warranty service.
 
Wow, that's a really weird problem however I have had countless friends/family members with similar issues on Holdens and Fords. For some reason it takes forever to find the faulty sensor. In every case it has been a car fairly early in its life (less than 6 months old). Problems ranged from the engine cutting out while on the highway (sit by the roadside for 5min and then it would restart) to just not starting at all.

Good to hear that the problem may finally be sorted though.
 
Seems like I may have been a bit of an optimist. The ready light is ON and there are no error message screens, but ......

Looks like the sensor problem with the resulting drive train systems fighting each other has broken components in the rear electric transmission. The noise is like driving the car slowly on a gravel drive, but when driving on smooth bitumen. The car being so quiet normally, allows the driver to hear stuff. Not real good when cornering either.

Not sure if reflashing the computer or replacing an ECU will fix this.

Would really like to have the driving experience so many other PHEV owners are enjoying.
 
Rumble noise found.

The noise has been identified. Not Electric transmission at all. The car has been sitting idle for so long that the shackles on the tow bar had rusted. The car is so quiet to drive that the rusting on the tow bar associated with the movement of the shackles when driving was sending the grinding noise back through the car to the interior. Just have to stow the shackles in the boot lockers.

Not out of the woods yet, as the electronic faults are still present.
 
gwatpe said:
Rumble noise found.

The noise has been identified. Not Electric transmission at all. The car has been sitting idle for so long that the shackles on the tow bar had rusted. The car is so quiet to drive that the rusting on the tow bar associated with the movement of the shackles when driving was sending the grinding noise back through the car to the interior. Just have to stow the shackles in the boot lockers.

Not out of the woods yet, as the electronic faults are still present.

Good to see one hot weeded out... Let's hope the others are such an easy fix?
 
The noise problem was not identified by the dealer, or Mitsubishi. I jacked the car up and checked the rear wheels myself. It was not until I let the jack down quickly that I found the problem. The rust was just in the spot the shackle had worn through the yellow paint on the rated pin. The car had been idle at the dealer for over 2 weeks during electrical, battery and computer diagnosis and then with the sensor problem and repair. Driving the car daily kept the metal to metal smooth, and it was only when the car was not driven for so long that it rusted, and the movement between the pitted surfaces could be heard inside the cabin. The shackle pin is now plastic sleeved, instead of just paint.
 
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