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I was about to say the same thing, I had a trailer with a ground fault, meaning that none of the lights worked, and then I had a soft honk coming from the back, synchronized with the brakes or the turnsignals. If you have that same box fitted to your car it may think that you have a trailer...

The 12V battery is not used to start the engine so you don't need a high cranking power. What it mostly needs to do is to provide enough power to the main contactor to connect the high voltage to the rest of the system and each relay coil uses less than one amp (DC resistance is in the 20 ohm...

I performed a second DBCAM, this time writing the battery age, but I didn't notice any difference so I don't know if it's really necessary to do.

The revised procedure can be found here: MSB-17EXL54-501

The benefit is that the BMU has the correct battery age, but I don't know if it changes anything about how the BMU operates. I have driven my car a couple of months with the wrong data, and will now drive it a bit with the correct one and I'll report here if I notice any difference. But anyway...

Did you use the "Write earned Value(Changed ECU)" function, and especially the "Saved Learned Value Writing" option? If yes I would suggest to do a new BMU reset and DBCAM, but without the "Saved Learned Value Writing" option. In my case it reduced the measured battery capacity from 28 Ah down...

I made a few more experiments... first you do need to put the car in ready mode to perform the DBCAM. If you are just in ACC mode the procedure won't start. Second I tried the "Write Learned Value(Changed ECU)" function to write back the battery age after a reset. When you select this function...

It could also have heated up because of a bad connection between the plug and the socket, or to the wires in the socket itself. If I were you I would check the socket before changing the plug. It does get a bit hot when charging but it should never become that hot.

Sorry for the delay. I checked and I have gaps too. I guess it is just the way Mitsubishi enumerates the cells, perhaps to match how they are placed in the battery. If I count all the cells I do have 80 of them, with numbers from 0 to 127 and with several gaps.

Yes 12Ah sounds like it's very low. Are you able to get the individual cell voltages? I don't remember if it can be done from the Thinkdiag tool, but at least Phev Watchdog can do that. If you have one or several cells that is at a voltage that is significantly higher or lower than the other...

Which range reduced after the charge? The actual range you can drive until the ICE engine starts, or the range shown on the guess-o-meter? Can you check what the battery state of charge is right before the ICE starts?

Thank you for all the details. I'll try and write my battery age the same way

I haven't had any issues, I don't know if the BMU actually uses the battery age for anything. I'll look into the menu for the keyless system and tell you

Are you sure you are boosting correctly? It's weird that you still have nothing

If you don't see any error message on the dashboard it will be difficult to find out what's wrong. Does the dashboard lights up at least? Do you have an OBD scanner to check for error codes?

Do you have the foot on the brake when you press the power button? If not it will just start in accessory mode and will not drive. Otherwise, don't you see an error message on the dashboard?

If you don't hear any clicks it could be a problem with the main contactor or the PHEV ECU. Unfortunately you'll have to get your car towed to a Mitsubishi dealership so they can diagnose the problem.

Yes it's this one

I managed to perform a battery calibration with a Thinkcar OBD tool. If you have the same options in your app you may be able to do it too. Have a look here

I don't think the Thinkcar OBD works with PHEV Watchdog either, I have a separate OBD receiver for the Watchdog app. I bought a ThinkCar Thinkdiag. Oddly enough it's not on ThinkCar's own webshop, but I bought it from Kingbolen for $89 (excluding taxes).