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In vehicles with the electric heater such as the Australian model, the heater does have the sam effect as a/c, in fact, the heater can draw almost double the power of the aircon compressor.

If you want to know the battery condition, the EVBATMON app will tell you exactly. Another way to get a fair idea is to set the electricity cost to $1.00 in the MMCS and and look at the charge cost after a full charge, e.g. From one or no bars showing. This will give you the kWh that went in...

No. In fact, I have read somewhere that it is not recommended to use on the PHEV. They are quite common here on the larger rigs, but not a standard requirement. They can apparently put some weird stresses on the drawbar if not correctly adjusted.

That's odd. The Australian specification is max ball weight of 150kg. That also matches with the common recommendation of the nose weight being about 10% of total trailer mass.

Well, I guess it's anyone's guess, however, decelerating and accelerating has to be less efficient than driving at a constant speed. I have read some studies on the benefits of regenerative breaking. Surprisingly, it increases overall efficiency in stop start driving by only about 10% and has...

You will find very little difference in the overall range whatever you do. It seems to use the friction brakes a bit more in b0 and b1, so the default b2 is probably the best most of the time.

Looking at the power meter, it seems that there is less regen in b0 and b1, I also conducted a highly scientific test by driving down a hill in normal "D", which is B2 and applying the brakes and then touching the brake disk, when I did the same run in B0, the disks where much hotter. so...

I think the regen braking when using the brake pedal is less in b0 and b1 but similar in all the higher settings.

Yes.. they are there to simulate gears and are very useful for descends... nothing more. No amount of fiddling in normal driving will make a difference in economy.

In my experience after owning one for nearly a year: On petrol it is between 7 and 8l/100km (not a lot of difference between open road and city driving) On battery it is about 20kwh/100km

The best way is to use the EVBATMON app... however, if you don't want to buy this and the required adaptor at this stage there are a couple of things you can do to get an idea. First, ask the dealer to fully charge it and take it for a drive and drive it gently without making the engine start...

No

Well.... it's not that sort of car! Should have done more homework before you bought it! The car is brilliant for mainly short runs and the occasional longer trip, that is what is was undoubtedly designed for. If most cars were like it, you would not have the brown haze over major cities on many...

I don't think that's quite right! At say 40MPH and in parallel mode, the engine is nowhere near making 70kW (it is in fact only about 30) and there won't be much left for the generator. The battery can only do 60kW max, so you won't be getting anywhere near 150kW total.

If you were driving too slow for parallel mode to engage, you will get this effect as the engine wants to make maximum power so the generator can supply 60kW. As long as you can maintain more than 65km/h, the ICE will drive the front wheels directly and the battery can supply another 60kW worth...

It is all laid out in the Service schedule.. the main difference to the 15k service seems to be the requirement to change the brake fluid.... As for the "much harder conditions", this is an old furphy they seem to play. There are few places that have more "benign" conditions for cars than...

Probably a lot better than fully cycling it every time. Charging stops as soon as you press the button to release the plug, so, no problem either.

you sure it is a 2016?

Well... we won't really know until it happens. A lot depends too on whether the battery pack has aged evenly or there are just a few really bad cells. As long as it can soak up the 30kW bursts of energy that may happen during regen, it may be fine. My hope is that in 5 years time that there may...

The manual reading IS the historic figure as long as you don't reset it. The auto mode resets every 4 hours, if the car is not driven in that time.