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Couldn't agree more! They way I use it, it would not matter that much if the battery was down to half its original capacity. Most of my daily drives are well less than 50km and it does them as well as it did the day I bought it. Mine is also a 2014 built. Some of the other PHEVs out there...

I seem to recall that there was a version of the PHEV supplied with 16" wheels. The tyres were probably not low profile, so if you can get hold of these wheels and find some low profile rubber to suit, you can test your theory....

My number is from the MMCS. I also use a WEMO Insight switch that measures power usage and it usually indicates about 200Wh more. The interesting thing is that the brochure for the current model PHEV here is Australia states that it will use "up to 9.8kWh to recharge", so it is not all that...

I have noticed that too. A few times when I looked at my WEMO app while it was charging, it only took about 80W when it should have been 2.2kW, however, checking back later it had resumed at the full rate. My battery conditiion says 87.6%, however, on a full charge, that is from 0 or 1 bar on...

Not so! They changed the pollen filter in the aircon AND the aircleaner element in mine.... :D They also adjusted the cost of the service from $900.00 to $470.00 after I pointed out that the service schedule in the book indicated that it was little more than an oil and filter change. Still an...

Actually... I just put the thing in B5 by flicking the gearshift back twice and then use the accelerator pedal to maintain speed... easier than fiddling with the paddles....................

I would definitely get a second opinion..... that battery leads a a very easy life. It sits in a nice cool place, never has to supply starting currents, so unless it has been standing fully discharged for a while at some time (unlikely?), there is no reason why it shouldn't last 10 years.

Hi Anko, From what I understand looking what the graph and explanation show, the BMU should actually correct any deviation from the "trendline" as long as the battery is always charged from the mains. i.e no external fast charging. Is that correct or did I miss something?

That's good info. Nice of your dealer to explain it. Seems they are a bit more "switched on" than the ones we have here......

Correct... you cannot unlatch the connector on the car without also terminating the charging process. As soon as you press the latch, this happens....that's the way it is designed. There is also a stop button on the "brick", but it really isn't needed. As for the charging, the normal sequence...

I think even the new model now is supplied with the 10A plug, which only charges at 8A max, hence the longer charging time quoted in the specs.. So, are your cells still smooth ?? :lol:

The vehicles sold here initially were supplied with an EVSE that had a 15A plug, the actual maximum current draw of this device was set at 10A! Later, Mitsubishi supplied an EVSE witha 10A plug and this one allowed a maximum draw of 8A, so it takes longer to charge. The reason they would have...

Usually it takes just under 5 hours, we have 240V mains here, but that really should make no difference as the 15A plug charging cable will charge at about 2.2kW no matter what the input is. The cable with the 10A plug will charge at 1.8kW, so it takes quite a bit longer.

This article (towards the end) would explain what happens in "cell smoothing". The article also says that even current BMS can be out as much as 15% in their battery capacity estimate. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/electric_vehicle_ev

I run my charging lead (the one with the 15A plug) through a WEMO Insight switch as a timer and charge meter. I have it set to start at midnight and the longest the charger in the car has ever run is 5:15 hrs. It charges at a maximum of 2.2kW and it tapers off in the last half hour or so. The...

Well, the "top buffer" could be "enabled" by simply increasing the charging voltage slightly... It would still taper off towards the end of the charge but you would end up with more energy to use without lowering the cut-off at the other end. It would be useful to know if anyone who had that...

Well, I was more thinking about your comment that "smoothing" gave you an improved range and more kWh going into the battery. From what I know is once a Li-Ion battery has degraded, nothing can restore lost capacity. But it is certainly possible to alter the behaviour of the battery management...

"Maybe there is a large chunk of unusable capacity 'at the top'. If the BMU takes that into account, the reported SOC could deviate from the actual SOC. Although, it would require a 18.5-ish kWh battery for these numbers to match up." Maybe they just enable a deeper discharge.....that would...

I wonder if this "smoothing" is really just a way to re-synch what the BMU stored battery capacity is, by performing a more detailed measurement than the normal charge/discharge cycle can do, to try and establish the actual condition and set the BMU to that. Cell balancing must be done quite...

Don't let the handbrake stop you from buying it :D