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Sounds like you're the ideal user for this type of car. Had mine for over year and have not noticed any battery degradation and that seems to be the experience with most owners. Running as a hybrid you can expect around 8l/100km (35mpg). Found this the other day on the web, similar car, looks...

First of all, you probably won't get 50km on every full charge, probably closer to 40 in suburban use. Secondly, it takes about 9kWh to charge from "empty", as the car will normally not discharge below 25-30% If all you want is to save $ in daily running cost, this car is probably not for you...

Why don't you just push the gear stick back twice..... saves wear on the paddles.

Shouldn't be a problem, however, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to leave enough charge in the battery to show at least a bar or two on the meter. Just press the charge button about 20 minutes before you get to your destination.

You can drive it without charging if you really want to.... expect around 8l/100km, can get as low as 6l/100km but highway at 110 close to 8. It won't damage the battery. Maintenance is similar to normal car, i.e. oil, coolant etc... expect the dealer to charge heaps..... as they do.

Couldn't agree more! Had mine for just over a year and very happy with the car, it does exactly what I bought it for (and low fuel consumption wasn't high on my list!) My usage is probably ideal as I do a lot of very short trips where a normal car would barely warm up properly. Two weeks ago we...

I did 48km last week (in suburban traffic), a few hills in that too but no aircon. My car is a 3/2014 built date, has done 22,000km now.

I am mainly referring to the short bursts that happen if you push the pedal just a bit harder and you really only need an extra 10kW for a few seconds. The engine could provide that easily running at say 2000 rpm and the whole thing would sound much nicer. Of course, in serial mode when the...

I don't believe that battery is designed for cranking, think it is more akin to a deep cycle. Li-Ion would have made sense, except it would probably cost 3 times as much... My main gripe is the unwanted ICE starts, but with a bit (maybe a lot) of practice it can be avoided. The real problem with...

That would be YEN..... he only needs to work part time with all that knowledge....... But, seriously, the Outlander is still an engineering masterpiece in spite of the few quirks that can be a bit annoying. There still is no other electric vehicle quite like it (they are coming though!)

Interesting snippet from one of your pictures, it appears that the aux battery in the car is a local (australian), at least the label is. Seems strange to had a replacement already in what can't be more than 2 years old.

The pistons in the calipers could be sticking.... they don't normally get much use in this car with regenerative breaking. But would expect this to be very common if both sides needed replacing. Sounds a bit suspect...

Actually, here in Australia, there is a switch on every power point.....the normal procedure is to turn on the switch after an appliance is plugged in, so it should never be "hot plugged". Having said that, mine is the standard model without the wi-fi and timer, so I have it plugged into a WEMO...

I left mine in the garage for a month while we were on holidays. It was a couple of bars down from full when I left it, still the same when we got back. So, self discharge is negligible. Somewhere in the Mitsubishi documentation it states that while in storage, it should be checked every 3...

Charging while stationary will also hit the battery with quite a high charge rate, not sure if that is actually a good thing to do on a regular basis.

looks like you're in the box seat to test it!

on the other hand, you can just get in and drive it.... It really makes little difference in practice what you do, except for the heater and aircon, nothing affects the range all that much

No

Well, it is WAY LESS than what many dealers will attempt to charge you for. I just had the 2 year service done here in Australia, my car has done just on 20,000km. The quotes I had ranged from $880.00!!!! to $470.00. The only major items, if you can call them that, are oil and filter change...

The big advantage using EVBATMON over the MMCS charge input method is that it can show you if there is a bad cell in the battery pack. So, if you get consistently low charge input readings then that would definitely be the next step, unless you want to go straight to the dealer.