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Tow bar mounting this weekend
- Thread starter MartinH
- Start date
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ansellrk
Active member
I'd be interested too!! 
Very easy
I use car specific electrical, with connectors and good quality.
In general, the PHEV 2013-2015 use exact the same parts as the new 2016 with just small deviation, the rear fog light Cable has a connector for the 2013-2015, but one Cable has to be cut + soldered(i Always solder, but there is other ways) on the 2016 model, and the new model takes main Power direct from the battery in the trunk, the old one takes Power under the bonnet with a small Cable included in the electrical kit.
One more thing i had to change, they suggested me to drill a 30mm hole in the metal chassi to get the Cable in to the trunk, no way i will drill in the metal in my new car to destroy the corrosion protection! A much smarter way is to make a less that 20mm hole in the plastic part, for the ventilation in the left back corner of the car behind the bumper.
Some tips:
Do not lift the back end of the car.
When you remove the bumper, very easy to find all the screws, Ask your wife to give some extra hands, when it come loose you have to remove two connectors for light and rear parking sensors, and if doing this in Cold conditions, i can only suggest that you warm the bumper with a heat gun on low temp, on the top part behind the Wheels to avoid braking some plastic clips.
Then remove the original aluminum frame, 6pcs screws, remove the original towing device, 2 loooooong ones.
Up with the trailer hook, do it yourself if you have a octopus as cousin, or ask your wife again for help in 2 min to just put the 4 long screws in the holes to keep the bar in Place.
Instruction was to put the screws in from the center so you have the nuts on the outside of the frame, not possible on left side as the battery pocket covers, so I had to mount them reverse.
2 metal brackets uses the 6 original screws + 4 new ones to screw onto the bar.
Mount all screws BEFORE you tight anything, when Everything is in Place, tight, and i also sprayed some extra rust protective clog on all screws and fixing poits to be 100% sure that the protective layer is still there.
Just follows the instruction for the Electric, takes some time, but not difficult, some of the connectors is hidden behind wires in the trunk, so be carefully to look for them Before you get pissed of by wrong instructions(my own experience!!)
My instruction was to make a 70x50mm cut on the bottom of the bumper, i made this, but as i have a removable hook, I had to open this little more to easy reach the loosing mechanism.
Total time app. 4 hours slow working hours, 1 hour to dismount the car, including the interial in the trunk and the left side in the trunk, easy but make sure the plastic is room temp. to avoid plastic clips to brake.
0,5 hour for the mechanical, and 2 hour for electrical and 0,5 hour assy of the car again.
I have some photos is someone is interested.
I purchased my kit on ebay, Quick delivery and great instructions for a low price.
I use car specific electrical, with connectors and good quality.
In general, the PHEV 2013-2015 use exact the same parts as the new 2016 with just small deviation, the rear fog light Cable has a connector for the 2013-2015, but one Cable has to be cut + soldered(i Always solder, but there is other ways) on the 2016 model, and the new model takes main Power direct from the battery in the trunk, the old one takes Power under the bonnet with a small Cable included in the electrical kit.
One more thing i had to change, they suggested me to drill a 30mm hole in the metal chassi to get the Cable in to the trunk, no way i will drill in the metal in my new car to destroy the corrosion protection! A much smarter way is to make a less that 20mm hole in the plastic part, for the ventilation in the left back corner of the car behind the bumper.
Some tips:
Do not lift the back end of the car.
When you remove the bumper, very easy to find all the screws, Ask your wife to give some extra hands, when it come loose you have to remove two connectors for light and rear parking sensors, and if doing this in Cold conditions, i can only suggest that you warm the bumper with a heat gun on low temp, on the top part behind the Wheels to avoid braking some plastic clips.
Then remove the original aluminum frame, 6pcs screws, remove the original towing device, 2 loooooong ones.
Up with the trailer hook, do it yourself if you have a octopus as cousin, or ask your wife again for help in 2 min to just put the 4 long screws in the holes to keep the bar in Place.
Instruction was to put the screws in from the center so you have the nuts on the outside of the frame, not possible on left side as the battery pocket covers, so I had to mount them reverse.
2 metal brackets uses the 6 original screws + 4 new ones to screw onto the bar.
Mount all screws BEFORE you tight anything, when Everything is in Place, tight, and i also sprayed some extra rust protective clog on all screws and fixing poits to be 100% sure that the protective layer is still there.
Just follows the instruction for the Electric, takes some time, but not difficult, some of the connectors is hidden behind wires in the trunk, so be carefully to look for them Before you get pissed of by wrong instructions(my own experience!!)
My instruction was to make a 70x50mm cut on the bottom of the bumper, i made this, but as i have a removable hook, I had to open this little more to easy reach the loosing mechanism.
Total time app. 4 hours slow working hours, 1 hour to dismount the car, including the interial in the trunk and the left side in the trunk, easy but make sure the plastic is room temp. to avoid plastic clips to brake.
0,5 hour for the mechanical, and 2 hour for electrical and 0,5 hour assy of the car again.
I have some photos is someone is interested.
I purchased my kit on ebay, Quick delivery and great instructions for a low price.
E-mail me at [email protected] and I will send you more information and photos.
I managed to get the dealer to throw in the Witter removable tow hook (for free) which they are offering. No instructions came with the hook but being able to just 'plug' it in and even easier to remove that wasn't an issue (also youtube has numerous instructional videos) it doesn't spoil the lines at the back and no horrid hook to bang my shin's on when not in use. I had to get a 13-7pin adapted for the trailer I was towing recently and was pleasantly surprised to find it fits (a little snug). The socket folds away nicely as well. If you can, consider Witter and the removable hook if you can afford it.
