Should I go for a 100k mile+ 2015 Model? And what to look for?

[jpalfrey]

Hi all,

I really like the idea of an outlander PHEV, however I'm in two minds. My commute is 50 miles long, sometimes 70. And motorway economy is a concern. However we have two cars in the household and I could swap with the wife (providing she doesnt think the car is too big) which would address that issue.

So I'm contemplating perhaps setting my sights lower and buying an early and perhaps higher mileage model in order to try out the PHEV way of life, if it works for me and our family, perhaps sell it in a year or so and get a newer one (perhaps a 2.4l would be in range and then jump to that).

So I have some questions if you could provide any insight as owners

- What EV range/capacity/SOC should I expect at higher mileage (100k miles+)
- Are there any common faults or expensive maintenance items associated with higher mileage vehicles to look out for? (heard rear motor mounts wear out and driveline oil should be changed too).
- Will I be buying a money pit at that age/mileage?
- Is rust/corrosion an issue? Being Mitsubishi is there any underbody protection? Wax injection, galvanising etc? Where should I look?

I do my own servicing and am an automotive engineer by profession so I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty on oily bits every now and again (service items, fluid changes mainly - especially on the daily, I've a classic Jaguar XK8 for hobby restoration work etc). I tend to buy cars out of warranty anyway and do my own servicing in-line with (or more frequently) OEM recommendations, as I just find that suits my budget.

I've seen early cars can now be had for maybe £8-9k (less for 3H and proper high mileage ones) but I guess the question is, is that false economy? The price point is certainly more palatable for me as a trial, and I can fund this price point quite comfortably, which I'm more enclinded to take a punt on so to speak. Spending more I'm less comfortable without more self justification.

I've seen some very nice cars around the £15k mark but for me that's a lot to invest right now and at the moment on expected energy/fuel useage I can't quite justify it (money is better spent elsewhere, mortgage overpayment for example).

Anyway thoughts on a higher mileage early model vs a newer one, to ring fence them it would be:
- 2015 4h 90-120k miles on the clock - say £8-9k
- 2017 4h 50k miles on the clock - Say £14k

(Above are estimates based on looking on Autotrader, no specific vehicles just ball park figures from looking around)

 

[greendwarf]

I have a 2014 3h with 50k miles.

Don't get a 3h if you want to keep warm in winter but don't want to burn petrol to do so.

I've had the motor mounts done and would expect any high mileage car to have been done as well - you can hear a distinct clonk if they haven't or need replacing again. Although nobody has posted about a second set of mounts yet. Only other issue is sticking brake callipers but actually using handbrake helps.

I'm only getting just over 20 miles of EV driving in London out of a full charge at present and it will only add a couple of miles in the summer.

Only serious rust issues have been from seaside owners.

DIY maintenance is limited both due to extensive software and high voltages.

 

[AntsCar]

Battery technology seems to get better every new generation of cars, so I'd go with the new car.
If you get a high mileage vehicle, it's probably done more petrol than electric driving so the battery could still be in good condition.

any reason you are looking at the outlander? You could get a phev prius for less

whatever you got for, keep an eye on the tax as some are zero & some are over £100

 

[jaapv]

I have just traded in my 2013 (Dec.) car with 150.000 km on the clock. No rust, no rattles, no excessively worn parts. It could be mistaken for a relatively young car -actually that was the case with all the old PHEVs in my dealer's showroom-. I could easily have done another 100.000 on it. The repairs I had were minimal: rear motor rubbers, new disks front, new exhaust (a very rare failure). It also developed a fault in the FCM system The car came to a full emergency stop in the middle of the motorway without reason. That took a link to the factory central computer to reinstall the firmware. Battery range was down to approx 30 km ( 35+ in summer) on average. This is a car that had been charged daily, often twice.
These cars are built really well.
I query the wisdom of buying a mid-period high mileage model. A low mileage first type is preferable as the main upgrades were cosmetic with only very modest technical ones. But do get the highest-specified one you can find. All these extras are very useful.
The maintenance for the mechanical part is very basic, but as these are hi-tech cars, computers on wheels combined with a hefty 300 V system, they do need to be hooked up to a computer from while to while. Furthermore electronic and electrical repairs and maintenance must be done by an authorized service, not only for access to the factory maintenance software, but also for (your own) safety.