Regenerative Braking

[highlevel]

Hi There,

Can anyone tell me if they have had any issues with regenerative braking.

Does it work when you have a fully charged vehicle.?

 

[anko]

No issues.
No, it does not work with a fly charged battery.

Regenerative breaking only works if the regenerated electricity can go somewhere. 'Somewhere' not being a huge resistor or something else that converts the electricity into heat, as there would be no point in doing so.

 

[Lyra252]

You can engage regen with the paddles, you don't need to use the gearstick.

Cheers

Chris

 

[Regulo]

Hi There,

Can anyone tell me if they have had any issues with regenerative braking.

Does it work when you have a fully charged vehicle.?

Had no issues, but, as stated, it can catch you out when starting off with a fully charged battery!

 

[JKL]

Would be nice if one could tell the APP to stop loading the battery at a certain percentage, ie charge only to 90%. I for instance have first to go downhill for a few km when I leave home and I would like to use the paddles....

 

[kljasdfbkjaaalke]

If you preheat for 20 minutes (remote control) you should have enough room for regen.

 

[JKL]

Connected to Mains or disconnected ?

 

[user 258]

Regenerative breaking only works if the regenerated electricity can go somewhere. 'Somewhere' not being a huge resistor or something else that converts the electricity into heat, as there would be no point in doing so.

Hi,
Actually, there would be a point in the generated electricity going into a resister, which is to give a consistent braking effect. The Plug-in Prius did a similar thing (it actually spun the engine up, to act as a compressor, to provide an engine braking effect when the battery was full. I was annoyed by the engine starting though).
Kind regards,
Mark

 

[Regulo]

Connected to Mains or disconnected ?

I've used pre-heat on the mains, and found re-gen to be pretty much non-existent on moving off. Haven't used it when not connected, but as the heater takes 4kW (I think), I'd assume there'd be some re-gen available.

 

[Regulo]

Regenerative breaking only works if the regenerated electricity can go somewhere. 'Somewhere' not being a huge resistor or something else that converts the electricity into heat, as there would be no point in doing so.

Hi,
Actually, there would be a point in the generated electricity going into a resister, which is to give a consistent braking effect. The Plug-in Prius did a similar thing (it actually spun the engine up, to act as a compressor, to provide an engine braking effect when the battery was full. I was annoyed by the engine starting though).
Kind regards,
Mark

It would have to be an enormous resistor! Capable of handling 100 amps at 300 volts? (allowing for 30KW re-gen).

 

[jdsx]

Connected to Mains or disconnected ?

I've used pre-heat on the mains, and found re-gen to be pretty much non-existent on moving off. Haven't used it when not connected, but as the heater takes 4kW (I think), I'd assume there'd be some re-gen available.

My first mile or so in the morning is downhill, so at this time of year I tend to pre-heat for 20 minutes (having disconnected from the mains). This uses up (about) two bars of battery, and I reckon to get at least one of those back in the first 5 minutes of driving :mrgreen:

 

[Kim]

...the generated electricity going into a resister, which is to give a consistent braking effect..

No resistor here.
All AC motors have an enormous breaking effect when you "short their leads" as the induction then works in the revers phase to the rotation.
Like a current brake (eddy current brake)
But no energy from outside the system needed.
To bad they don't use it, but who want's to have their breaking pads forever, right?

One more thing to remember about regenerative breaking:
only 12-30% of the kinetic energy can be charged back into the battery by regenerative breaking, rest is kinda "lost in translation".

So, if you do NOT need to break at all, you will preserve at least 70% more of the energy.
But if you need to break, getting back 12-30% is better than nothing, right....

 

[anko]

...the generated electricity going into a resister, which is to give a consistent braking effect..

No resistor here.
All AC motors have an enormous breaking effect when you "short their leads" as the induction then works in the revers phase to the rotation.
Like a current brake (eddy current brake)
But no energy from outside the system needed.
To bad they don't use it, but who want's to have their breaking pads forever, right?

Where will the energy go?

 

[highlevel]

I have checked and I get 1,2 & 3 working after a full charge, Albeit with a little engine running to get the defroster going.

The one issue I have noticed is that at say a 50% charge I am not getting any braking going from 4 to 5 ( intermittent) (very noticeable bu its absence when on the motorway - can't identify a specific sequence. I think I am going to have atest drive a showroom model again to see if mine differs. I have noticed I have to use the brakes alot more than I used to.

 

[Ozukus]

highlevel

You may want to look at this thread.

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=979

 

[highlevel]

highlevel

You may want to look at this thread.

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=979

Thanks for that.

"As the battery becomes less effective, all PHEV drivers will be thankful that Mitsubishi engineers designed the mechanical brakes at the present size. Most drivers will only experience the lack of REGEN with a full battery, as the battery effectiveness as an energy absorber diminishes, like my original PHEV. Present owners will become very aware of the importance of the mechanical components as the battery changes with aging."

if the above is true at 10500 miles and 7 months ownership, the battery has suddenly changed. It has become very noticeable to me how much more braking I have to do when slowing down on Motorway. The M25, like many other motorways, can be stop go, so using the B0 to drive and then B4 to B5 to slow down before, maybe, having to apply applying the brakes is very helpful, except B4 & especially B5 are nowhere near as effective as they used to be.

 

[maby]

highlevel

You may want to look at this thread.

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=979

Thanks for that.

"As the battery becomes less effective, all PHEV drivers will be thankful that Mitsubishi engineers designed the mechanical brakes at the present size. Most drivers will only experience the lack of REGEN with a full battery, as the battery effectiveness as an energy absorber diminishes, like my original PHEV. Present owners will become very aware of the importance of the mechanical components as the battery changes with aging."

if the above is true at 10500 miles and 7 months ownership, the battery has suddenly changed. It has become very noticeable to me how much more braking I have to do when slowing down on Motorway. The M25, like many other motorways, can be stop go, so using the B0 to drive and then B4 to B5 to slow down before, maybe, having to apply applying the brakes is very helpful, except B4 & especially B5 are nowhere near as effective as they used to be.

I really don't think it's wise using B5 braking on the motorway - it doesn't light the brake lights and there are plenty of shunts with normal braking anyway.

 

[highlevel]

I really don't think it's wise using B5 braking on the motorway - it doesn't light the brake lights and there are plenty of shunts with normal braking anyway.

"

When I want to slow down and there is not much traffic behind me there is no issue. I have done over 10,000 mile using this method.

I get your point though

 

[Ozukus]

I really don't think it's wise using B5 braking on the motorway - it doesn't light the brake lights and there are plenty of shunts with normal braking anyway.

"

When I want to slow down and there is not much traffic behind me there is no issue. I have done over 10,000 mile using this method.

I get your point though

That was part of the point of my original post, is that I can set it to coast (B0) on the motorway and if I want to apply regen I touch the brake pedal. Depending upon how far I press depends on the level of regen and how quickly I do or don't stop, and my brake lights are on.

In general though I just treat it like a normal car, leave it in Drive and let it do its own thing.

 

[anko]

highlevel

You may want to look at this thread.

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=979

Thanks for that.

"As the battery becomes less effective, all PHEV drivers will be thankful that Mitsubishi engineers designed the mechanical brakes at the present size. Most drivers will only experience the lack of REGEN with a full battery, as the battery effectiveness as an energy absorber diminishes, like my original PHEV. Present owners will become very aware of the importance of the mechanical components as the battery changes with aging."

if the above is true at 10500 miles and 7 months ownership, the battery has suddenly changed. It has become very noticeable to me how much more braking I have to do when slowing down on Motorway. The M25, like many other motorways, can be stop go, so using the B0 to drive and then B4 to B5 to slow down before, maybe, having to apply applying the brakes is very helpful, except B4 & especially B5 are nowhere near as effective as they used to be.

After 14 months and 14000 miles, my battery capacity is down by more than 10%, but I have not noticed any degeneration in the tegen process.