Emergency Starting, Auxiliary Battery and Accessory Sockets

[Claymore]

The auxiliary battery has (on the MY16) 36ah capacity and is charged from the drive battery while the 'Ready' indicator is illuminated or during charge for the main drive battery. If the auxiliary battery is flat the PHEV cannot be started. This simply quoted from the manual.

There is an Emergency Starting procedure involving jump leads and muchos capers under the bonnet which I have read about but not yet rehearsed which I should because when it happens it'll be pitch dark and raining heavily.

However, the car is equipped with 3 accessory sockets (2 on pre MY16) which, if used enthusiastically, should help brick the car.

My question is whether those packs which plug into the car accessory sockets can deliver enough juice (even though have to wait for that to be transferred to the car aux battery) to get the car started?

Whether yes or no, in looking for items such as the above I found these (there appears to be quite a few available);

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-12000mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery/dp/B00YDZR40W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458828740&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=portable+car+jump+starter&psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B017TU4E8M?psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AJLN0PG?psc=1

One of these seems to me to be an indispensable accessory for the PHEV as jump leads are of course no use if there's no one handy to offer the proverbial jump.

EDIT: Just bought this one;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-16500mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery-DJS30/dp/B00YDZR3ZI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41gNaMT3j6L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=083KE5987G0FBDPTS6FD

Second Edit: Thought this was worth a couple of pounds too;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vehicle-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Checker/dp/B007FW9HFK/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41PUj4NI-zL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0EZ709E03Y69JA60TQFN

JimB

 

[SolarBoy]

As the accessory ports are only live when the car is 'on', is making the aux battery flat an issue?

 

[Claymore]

Catch 22! That makes the thought of trying to feed the aux battery via the accessory sockets somewhat academic.

Flat aux battery appears here on occasions, recently, about 4 threads down in this section;

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2408

JimB

 

[Carnut]

12v battery pack for jump starting is the only reliable solution (imho). Attached jump leads.
Can be had from Machine Mart or online from about £30 (rubbish) up to over £100 for big diesels.

 

[Tipper]

The auxiliary battery doesn't 'start' the car in the conventional 'starter motor' sense. It provides 12V for the control systems to boot up. This then instructs the generator, working as a motor from the main battery, to start the engine. Aux battery is for auxiliary systems only.

All you need is sufficient 12V/amps capacity to boot up the control systems so no where near what you need for a conventional starter motor started car. I've no idea how much would be needed but it can't be much. I would expect a motorbike battery or one from your domestic burglar alarm to do it easily!

 

[jaapv]

The auxiliary battery has (on the MY16) 36ah capacity and is charged from the drive battery while the 'Ready' indicator is illuminated or during charge for the main drive battery. If the auxiliary battery is flat the PHEV cannot be started. This simply quoted from the manual.

There is an Emergency Starting procedure involving jump leads and muchos capers under the bonnet which I have read about but not yet rehearsed which I should because when it happens it'll be pitch dark and raining heavily.

However, the car is equipped with 3 accessory sockets (2 on pre MY16) which, if used enthusiastically, should help brick the car.

My question is whether those packs which plug into the car accessory sockets can deliver enough juice (even though have to wait for that to be transferred to the car aux battery) to get the car started?

Whether yes or no, in looking for items such as the above I found these (there appears to be quite a few available);

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-12000mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery/dp/B00YDZR40W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458828740&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=portable+car+jump+starter&psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B017TU4E8M?psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AJLN0PG?psc=1

One of these seems to me to be an indispensable accessory for the PHEV as jump leads are of course no use if there's no one handy to offer the proverbial jump.

EDIT: Just bought this one;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-16500mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery-DJS30/dp/B00YDZR3ZI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41gNaMT3j6L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=083KE5987G0FBDPTS6FD

Second Edit: Thought this was worth a couple of pounds too;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vehicle-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Checker/dp/B007FW9HFK/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41PUj4NI-zL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0EZ709E03Y69JA60TQFN

JimB

The jump lead connector is in the boot. No need to open the bonnet. Just connect a 12V burglar alarm battery and start up.

 

[Regulo]

The jump lead connector is in the boot. No need to open the bonnet. Just connect a 12V burglar alarm battery and start up.

According to my manual, the jump lead positive is in the engine bay fuse box?

 

[Claymore]

The jump lead connector is in the boot. No need to open the bonnet. Just connect a 12V burglar alarm battery and start up.

According to my manual, the jump lead positive is in the engine bay fuse box?

And mine (I did say I was quoting the manual and hadn't done any training yet).

JimB

 

[Claymore]

12v battery pack for jump starting is the only reliable solution (imho). Attached jump leads.
Can be had from Machine Mart or online from about £30 (rubbish) up to over £100 for big diesels.

You been too lazy to click on the links Colin.

:shock:

JimB

 

[phevark]

The auxiliary battery has (on the MY16) 36ah capacity and is charged from the drive battery while the 'Ready' indicator is illuminated or during charge for the main drive battery. If the auxiliary battery is flat the PHEV cannot be started. This simply quoted from the manual.

There is an Emergency Starting procedure involving jump leads and muchos capers under the bonnet which I have read about but not yet rehearsed which I should because when it happens it'll be pitch dark and raining heavily.

However, the car is equipped with 3 accessory sockets (2 on pre MY16) which, if used enthusiastically, should help brick the car.

My question is whether those packs which plug into the car accessory sockets can deliver enough juice (even though have to wait for that to be transferred to the car aux battery) to get the car started?

Whether yes or no, in looking for items such as the above I found these (there appears to be quite a few available);

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-12000mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery/dp/B00YDZR40W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458828740&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=portable+car+jump+starter&psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B017TU4E8M?psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AJLN0PG?psc=1

One of these seems to me to be an indispensable accessory for the PHEV as jump leads are of course no use if there's no one handy to offer the proverbial jump.

EDIT: Just bought this one;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-16500mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery-DJS30/dp/B00YDZR3ZI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41gNaMT3j6L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=083KE5987G0FBDPTS6FD

Second Edit: Thought this was worth a couple of pounds too;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vehicle-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Checker/dp/B007FW9HFK/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41PUj4NI-zL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0EZ709E03Y69JA60TQFN

JimB

Are the leads on the one you bought long enough to use in the manner indicated in the manual? I have read elsewhere that using a bolt on the engine block for one the connections is possible, not got car yet so no idea of the length of leads required.

(Just joined forum today, been lurking for a while and pick up my MY16 GX3H+ in 1 week, going on holiday for three weeks in the summer and wondered if one of these might be a good idea in case of a flat battery. Not expecting to have a flat AUX battery but just in case.)

 

[Claymore]

I'm not sure although I note that they tend to be quite short.

Fortunately as I'm into electric powered radio controlled models can make extension leads.

I'll post on the suitability of the standard connectors when my unit arrives.

JimB

 

[phevark]

I am fairly competent with these thing too, my Dad was a spark and many years ago I worked for a specialist cable installer so quite happy to modify the cables if required. I will try to dig out the post that mentioned using alternate points as this may avoid the need to modify the cables for others not so keen on this.

A.

Found the post on alternate connection points.

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2408&hilit=battery+connection+AA

 

[jthspace]

I bought a standard set of jump leads under the "Energiser" brand. They are a standard length and will reach between the doner car and the PHEV. See my post reference flat aux battery. The leads would have worked if I had ignored the manual and connected to the engine block bolt and not the fluid bottle bracket mentioned in the manual.

I believe a simple mod to the cover of the aux battery would be a simple solution, allowing you to connect a small battery to the aux battery to allow starting, maybe a burglar alarm battery or one of the LiIon batteries you can buy for providing a quick boost.

You could always connect it to the connector in the fuse box under the bonnet of course, if you didn't want to mod the lid n the boot. I feel a couple of hours removing the panel coming up.

Jeff

 

[anko]

The jump lead connector is in the boot. No need to open the bonnet. Just connect a 12V burglar alarm battery and start up.

I know from experience that this is difficult to access when the electric tailgate is working against you .... :x

 

[Claymore]

The jump lead connector is in the boot. No need to open the bonnet. Just connect a 12V burglar alarm battery and start up.

I know from experience that this is difficult to access when the electric tailgate is working against you .... :x

Ha! I'm glad it's not just me (thinking I could plug in to the accessory ports).

Another thing - presumably as the electronics will all be dead the car will have to be opened using the physical key hidden in the 'key' fob?

Maybe obvious now but a lot of people may not have read enough of the manual to realise that there actually is a key.

Just saying....

JimB

 

[anko]

Another thing - presumably as the electronics will all be dead the car will have to be opened using the physical key hidden in the 'key' fob?

Indeed. Good thing is: your alarm won't go off.

Depending on how empty it really was, you may have lost other things, such as your lifetime MPG (happened to me once) and WiFi pairings (happened more than once).

 

[jaapv]

The jump lead connector is in the boot. No need to open the bonnet. Just connect a 12V burglar alarm battery and start up.

I know from experience that this is difficult to access when the electric tailgate is working against you .... :x

Ah. Never thought of that. Good reason to use bonnet access.

 

[anko]

The jump lead connector is in the boot. No need to open the bonnet. Just connect a 12V burglar alarm battery and start up.

I know from experience that this is difficult to access when the electric tailgate is working against you .... :x

Ah. Never thought of that. Good reason to use bonnet access.

Neither had I. The boot is not a very good place to keep your jumper cables ..... :lol:

 

[Claymore]

Shoot! This just keeps getting worse!

Now I'll have to keep the Jump Starter in the front, at least it's quite small.

I'd put it under the seat but it'll disappear into the black hole under the rip in the carpet!

JimB

 

[Claymore]

...Are the leads on the one you bought long enough to use in the manner indicated in the manual?

The 'designated' points for the procedure are the positive terminal in the fuse box protected by a flip up cover and the bracket (at the other side of the engine compartment) which supports the water bottle.

However there is a bracket supporting some electrical connectors located close to the fuse box and I tested that using a meter on that plus the positive terminal in the fuse box and got a voltage reading not a lot over 12 volts (which is low for an allegedly fully charged battery but maybe paint interference).

I chose not to actually connect the jump start as in theory the car aux battery has 3 or 4 times as much current stored in it as the jump start and wasn't sure what might happen but I'm confident that that bracket can be used to start the car ...and the leads supplied reach. I had to use a non slip mat under the jump start as the car was on a slope and the jump start kept sliding off.

The jump start kit fits (just) in the glove compartment leaving little or no room for gloves!

Smaller jumpstart kits are available however and remember that in the case of the PHEV the jump start does not have to crank the engine, it only needs to energise the car's control system. The power to crank the engine is supplied from the car's main drive battery.





JimB