DIY oil and filter change?

[Tipper]

I know all you company car drivers won't be interested in this but of the real car owners amongst us ( :lol: ) have any done an interim oil/filter change on the engine?

Are the oil sump drain and filter easy to get to?

Thanks

 

[westdevon]

I'm a real owner.
I wouldn't be doing any of this while the car's under warranty. I think everyone still is?
If you don't get the servicebook stamped your warranty is gone as far as I know.

 

[jaapv]

Not interesting to do so. A real service is for the main part done hooked up to the computer and as the ICE gets less use than on a regular car 20.000 Km is rather short for an oil change anyway. Waste of money, time and effort. The warranty is linked to the factory's computer database. All work done to the car is recorded in Japan. It is stuffed with logs that get downloaded. Welcome to 2015...

 

[anko]

My car is company owned. And the company is owned .... by me .... So, I still own the car. :mrgreen:

BTW: Tipper does nog suggest DIY instead off allowing the dealer do it, but in addition to. Should not impact warranty, should it?

 

[jthspace]

Here is the EUR 2014 Outlander Service Manual in ISO format.

You can download it from Uploaded.net, link below. 640 Mb in size.

On a PC with Windows 7 or earlier you will have to get some (free) software to mount the iso.

On Windows 8 onwards you can mount the ISO directly, the process is essentially a “one-click” step: right-mouse click on the .ISO file and select “Mount” with a left mouse click. The extracted file list will appear. You then click the “set-up” file to install the software.

I hope the link below works . . . . . let me know.

Jeff

http://ul.to/ojamzfl6

 

[jaapv]

My car is company owned. And the company is owned .... by me .... So, I still own the car. :mrgreen:

BTW: Tipper does nog suggest DIY instead off allowing the dealer do it, but in addition to. Should not impact warranty, should it?

Basically maybe not But the question remains why? With present-day synthetic oils and engine tolerances there is absolutely no need. Thirty years ago, maybe, but service intervals were much shorter back then, for precisely this reason.

 

[Neverfuel]

It depends on how you use the vehicle as to when an oil and filter change is required. In "normal" use it is 12,500 miles, in "severe" use it is 6,000 miles.

Severe use is defined as one or several of the following factors:

- driving in dusty areas
- rough roads, submerged areas or hilly roads
- driving in cold zones
- engine idling for a long time or short distance driving on ICE in cold weather
- frequent sudden application of brakes
- frequent towing of a trailer
- use as a taxi or rental car
- where more than 50% of driving is in city traffic at more than 32 degrees C
- where more than 50% of driving is above 75 mph (120 kph) and the temp is above 30 degrees C

Hope this helps - came straight from the UK service manual. Can someone check non UK vehicles manual and post any differences?

Possibly worth making the list sticky Jaapv?

 

[Tipper]

I'm a real owner.
I wouldn't be doing any of this while the car's under warranty. I think everyone still is?
If you don't get the servicebook stamped your warranty is gone as far as I know.

What I intend is a change of oil and filter by me or others which would use a Mitsubishi filter and their recommended oil. May even get my dealer to do it as an extra to their servicing purely because the oil is very dirty for such a young engine!
I can't see any impact on warranty because there would be no record just my satisfaction in knowing that I am prolonging the life of the 'many times cold started' engine.
I have always changed oil between services myself on all my cars even if I used main dealer servicing. I will say that the fresh oil substituted for the blackened oil in my diesel cars didn't stay clear for very long though.

 

[Neverfuel]

Hi Tipper

Is it really that bad - mine is not showing any problem yet, but then I have only done 6000 miles.

 

[westdevon]

In the past 25 years of keeping cars for 3 years from new, I've never topped up the oil myself, never mind changing it :mrgreen:

Mostly fairly low mileage, but I've never seen the oil level drop between services.

 

[Neverfuel]

In the past 25 years of keeping cars for 3 years from new, I've never topped up the oil myself, never mind changing it :mrgreen:

Mostly fairly low mileage, but I've never seen the oil level drop between services.

I even try and make the washer fluid last for a year, so the dealer can fill it up! :lol:

 

[jaapv]

You cannot have been driving British-made cars 25 years ago then.. :twisted:

In the past 25 years of keeping cars for 3 years from new, I've never topped up the oil myself, never mind changing it :mrgreen:

Mostly fairly low mileage, but I've never seen the oil level drop between services.

 

[jaapv]

It depends on how you use the vehicle as to when an oil and filter change is required. In "normal" use it is 12,500 miles, in "severe" use it is 6,000 miles.

Severe use is defined as one or several of the following factors:

- driving in dusty areas
- rough roads, submerged areas or hilly roads
- driving in cold zones
- engine idling for a long time or short distance driving on ICE in cold weather
- frequent sudden application of brakes
- frequent towing of a trailer
- use as a taxi or rental car
- where more than 50% of driving is in city traffic at more than 32 degrees C
- where more than 50% of driving is above 75 mph (120 kph) and the temp is above 30 degrees C

Hope this helps - came straight from the UK service manual. Can someone check non UK vehicles manual and post any differences?

Possibly worth making the list sticky Jaapv?

Silly list - What difference does driving as a rental make for instance? And how often is the weather over 32 degrees C. in the UK?

 

[anko]

Doesn't sound like it is going to be sticky .... :lol: :lol:

 

[Neverfuel]

It depends on how you use the vehicle as to when an oil and filter change is required. In "normal" use it is 12,500 miles, in "severe" use it is 6,000 miles.

Severe use is defined as one or several of the following factors:

- driving in dusty areas
- rough roads, submerged areas or hilly roads
- driving in cold zones
- engine idling for a long time or short distance driving on ICE in cold weather
- frequent sudden application of brakes
- frequent towing of a trailer
- use as a taxi or rental car
- where more than 50% of driving is in city traffic at more than 32 degrees C
- where more than 50% of driving is above 75 mph (120 kph) and the temp is above 30 degrees C

Hope this helps - came straight from the UK service manual. Can someone check non UK vehicles manual and post any differences?

Possibly worth making the list sticky Jaapv?

Silly list - What difference does driving as a rental make for instance? And how often is the weather over 32 degrees C. in the UK?

Sorry Jaapv

Not a silly list - I have copied directly from the UK service schedule - you should know me better than that!

 

[jaapv]

Your manual is devoid of silly lists and warnings? :lol:

 

[westdevon]

You cannot have been driving British-made cars 25 years ago then.. :twisted:

In the past 25 years of keeping cars for 3 years from new, I've never topped up the oil myself, never mind changing it :mrgreen:

Mostly fairly low mileage, but I've never seen the oil level drop between services.

4 Japanese, 3 Korean, 2 American, 1 Land Rover which had 6 month services, and new cylinder head in between!

 

[STS134]

Not interesting to do so. A real service is for the main part done hooked up to the computer and as the ICE gets less use than on a regular car 20.000 Km is rather short for an oil change anyway. Waste of money, time and effort. The warranty is linked to the factory's computer database. All work done to the car is recorded in Japan. It is stuffed with logs that get downloaded. Welcome to 2015...

What are you basing this statement on? Did you extract some oil from your PHEV and get an analysis done?

I've attached my oil analysis report (they got the vehicle type wrong, it's the PHEV model, but that doesn't affect the analysis) which was taken at 3714 miles. As you can see, fuel dilution was already at the maximum level allowed. Fuel in the oil is a really bad thing, it prevents oil from properly lubricating the ICE. Fuel in the oil is a common problem in PHEVs because the ICE tends to not run long enough to burn off the blow-by, so instead of burning off, the fuel in the oil builds up. This oil needs to be removed from my PHEV soon, and I will remove it at 5k miles.

PHEVs need oil changes just as often as pure ICE cars! A friend with a Cayenne S E-Hybrid also took an oil sample from his PHEV and the lab found exactly the same thing, very high fuel dilution levels.

View attachment Outlander_Oil_Analysis.jpg

 

[Woodman411]

I've attached my oil analysis report (they got the vehicle type wrong, it's the PHEV model, but that doesn't affect the analysis) which was taken at 3714 miles. As you can see, fuel dilution was already at the maximum level allowed. Fuel in the oil is a really bad thing, it prevents oil from properly lubricating the ICE. Fuel in the oil is a common problem in PHEVs because the ICE tends to not run long enough to burn off the blow-by, so instead of burning off, the fuel in the oil builds up. This oil needs to be removed from my PHEV soon, and I will remove it at 5k miles.

Thanks for posting this, excellent information.

 

[STS134]

I've attached my oil analysis report (they got the vehicle type wrong, it's the PHEV model, but that doesn't affect the analysis) which was taken at 3714 miles. As you can see, fuel dilution was already at the maximum level allowed. Fuel in the oil is a really bad thing, it prevents oil from properly lubricating the ICE. Fuel in the oil is a common problem in PHEVs because the ICE tends to not run long enough to burn off the blow-by, so instead of burning off, the fuel in the oil builds up. This oil needs to be removed from my PHEV soon, and I will remove it at 5k miles.

Thanks for posting this, excellent information.

I should add that the oil that came out of my PHEV had a strong gasoline-like smell when I was putting it into the sample container. I have never smelled anything like this coming out of any of my pure ICE cars. But you can't just sniff test your oil, you really need to send it in to be analyzed to figure out the actual contamination levels.

Here is the place that will do oil analysis, at least if you are in the US: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
They sell a vacuum pump, which you can use to extract oil without actually changing it https://www.blackstone-labs.com/vacuum-pump.php That's how I got my oil out to sample without removing all of the oil from the vehicle.

The TBN levels https://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php still look good, as this ICE really has only about I'd say 1000-2000 miles of "runtime" on it, but it doesn't really matter as the fuel dilution has reached levels where the ICE can be damaged anyway.