-
If you have not please join our official My Outlander PHEV Facebook Group!
Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Facebook Group
Charger repair video -cable replacement
- Thread starter Quentin
- Start date
Help Support Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum:
jaapv
Well-known member
IIRC there is a norm that does not allow a longer cable.
Thruster763
Member
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2020
- Messages
- 7
Found this after I had repaired the same failure. Older post I know, but I have a couple of comments. First you should NOT use silicone grease on the cble to make it easier to slide the cable clamp on. It will always be slippey and will stop the cable clamp working. If you need a lubricant use isopropyl alcohol or at a pinch wil of water with a drop of washing up liquid. whatever you use make sure it has vaporated befor you put the cover on.
Make sure the cable is at least 1.5mm2 (rated for 13A). Ideally the the plug should be moulded on. I used a good quality IEC C13 lead with the C13 plug cut off. These are often called "kettle" leads or computer leads. Be aware that a lot of PC ones are only 5A rated. Unless the cable is marked 1.5mm2 (or larger) don't use it. I put a length of adhesive lined heatshrink sleeving over the cable where it goes through gland to give it a bit more protection.
I'm not aware of any regulation on the length of the mains part of the lead, but common sense says to keep it short so the main block can't get to a place where it can be driven over when plugged in. This could be by you or somone else.
Putting a 16A "CEE" plug on the end is an interesting question. As the CEE plugs are not fused it's a change to the design. Generally the fuse in the plug is only there to protect the cable, not the equipment. However the chrger passes the power on to the car nad we have no way of knowing if the safety of the design relies on the plug fuse, perhaps as a secondary protection. I Can't see it would as the UK plug is about the only design with a fuse in it. However if you put CEE plug on and something did go wrong your insurance might not pay out. They seem to use any excuse not to these days.
Make sure the cable is at least 1.5mm2 (rated for 13A). Ideally the the plug should be moulded on. I used a good quality IEC C13 lead with the C13 plug cut off. These are often called "kettle" leads or computer leads. Be aware that a lot of PC ones are only 5A rated. Unless the cable is marked 1.5mm2 (or larger) don't use it. I put a length of adhesive lined heatshrink sleeving over the cable where it goes through gland to give it a bit more protection.
I'm not aware of any regulation on the length of the mains part of the lead, but common sense says to keep it short so the main block can't get to a place where it can be driven over when plugged in. This could be by you or somone else.
Putting a 16A "CEE" plug on the end is an interesting question. As the CEE plugs are not fused it's a change to the design. Generally the fuse in the plug is only there to protect the cable, not the equipment. However the chrger passes the power on to the car nad we have no way of knowing if the safety of the design relies on the plug fuse, perhaps as a secondary protection. I Can't see it would as the UK plug is about the only design with a fuse in it. However if you put CEE plug on and something did go wrong your insurance might not pay out. They seem to use any excuse not to these days.
jaapv
Well-known member
Outside the UK the cable or plug are not fused, and rated 16A. IIRC, the part between the plug and the charger box may not be longer than 50 cm.
Thruster763
Member
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2020
- Messages
- 7
Yes, I did say that only the UK uses fused plugs. I do note that some chargers e.g. BMW spec have a temperature sensor in the plug so heating due to a bad connection can be detected. Obviosly these cannot be replaced with a standard plug.
