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As I mentioned above it was essential that a 5A fuse was used and contact immediately lifted when charge commenced, but yes this is definitely not a recommended procedure and was in my case for testing purposes only. Actually, nothing mentioned in this thread would be recommended, period

English might not be your mother tongue so you might have miss understood what I wrote: I did not say that a nice person wrote MUT. Fur us humble PHEV owners to use it for 'battery improvements' 'special drivers' are required: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4533

Turns out it needs a bit more than 5A. Those fuses don't blow exactly at the rated current, they need to survive that rated current. Typically a 5A fuse burns out at 7A or higher. My Lab supply stayed at 6.5V at 5A but not all relays switched on, so charge could not be initiated. Voltage and...

Hence the reason why I suggested to at least use an old 12V car battery instead of the good auxiliary battery. If Mitsubishi designed a car that breaks simply because a 12V battery runs low then they are the ones who would be stupid. And how is the MUT method any safer? You are suggesting that...

Yeah, I got some tricky coastal drops to negotiate where I live, not much over 60m but sudden and short, bit like a roller coaster. If I am 'a bit' over the speed limit in the bottom I can sometimes get to a top again in B0 barely using the throttle at all. 3mp/h speedo 'error' is quite high. I...

Another thing: To my knowledge no Australian has succeeded with any of these Lindqvist variants. If any Australian who succeeded could you please come forward. I have no FaceBook.

Guys this thread is about Lindqvist and it's variants. I just noticed some comments on this new YT video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EwtD_q2rUE Which I already tried before I saw/read it. There are consistent comments about ruining your 12V battery by depleting it down to 7V. While it...

Interesting that it shows a constant +3 km/h deviation, not a relative one like 3%, so this could be a deliberate 'calibrated' setting that may be adjustable with the right service software. It would be important that the cruise control have the same deviation. The car's inertia physically can...

- The seat belt for the driver is a bit far back and hard to reach at least the way I am comfortable with the seat position, which is an issue if you have a back pain like me ATM :!: - Had I read the user manual before I bought it I may have reconsidered, as every second warning display shown...

I stand by my opinion that the SoH indicator on the Dog is calculated ********(from the BMU) but the displayed energy going into the battery while charging is true. So this energy must be going somewhere. I have a theory(just an idea) that by taking almost twice as long to charge that...

Here the result of an attempted 'full' charge using my slow charger. I got now 9.3kWh available on a battery hat has only 8.7kWh capacity and was charged to only 97.9%. So I wasn't imagining things. Battery is definitely not over charged, the 4.095V for a 97.9% SoC looks correct. Please tell me...

The question is: does the battery degrade (SoH display) faster on an ex company car that has rarely been charged or one with a battery that is frequently charged from the mains? The situation that caused the faster 'degradation' should benefit more if there really is a benefit, which is not...

Here is my self designed charger that fits my requirements but couldn't get the guts to fit inside the plug, the extra box is fine. It has a 20 meter cable to reach the back of the house with my off grid system. It tells my car to use only 5.3A, at least that is what my clamp meter shows...

Battery is normally only discharged so that 30% or 3.6kWh is left as reserve. That is how Mitsubishi wants it. 12kWh-3.6kWh = 8.4kWh. 8kWh sounds spot on if you still have a couple of km left.

There are owners of newer vehicles complaining about battery degradation that is far too high for their age and these are not some isolated cases. This has nothing to do with my personal opinions but it is a fact that these batteries should have a higher capacity for their age than what has been...

B5 and 100% charged are not good friends. I only noticed today that I almost rear ended the car in front when I discovered how firm I had to press on the brakes without regen. I rarely charge to 100%, and yes I only have the car for 3 weeks now. I actually only want B0 and B5 and I wish I could...

The discussion in the Lindqvist thread is getting a bit obscure when members start comparing the differences between the methods of these 'resets'. Therefore I hope we can continue this here in a dedicated thread so all this information is accessible in one place for future reference. So far...

Thanks for reminding me :) ...and that detailed experience post. It is just that the Lyndqvist method seems the least invasive way and I would like to see if it would work with a replacement BCM that might have older firmware in it or something. + I can keep things as they are if I don't touch...

Well either that is a faulty battery,(you might see weak/unbalanced cells in the Dog) or confirmation that the information from battery management system, including the voltages that are reported through the Dog, is utter B.S. The OBD- dongle is powered up once the charge process has started...

Didn't need to get dirty hands. Lifting off the drink holder in the back next to the charge port revealed a little black box with the part number 9499D054. Plenty on Ebay, used for $100-200 from the UK. So far it seems at least the 2014-2017 UK models have the same battery control module as...