Search results

The idea behind the 'bit of gas' was to reveal weaker cells. This becomes more apparent when the battery is low and there is a load. I think the problem that some had with turtle mode could be individual cells hitting 2.7V under load or whatever threshold is set in the battery management. As...

Today I managed to drive it down to --.-- No troubles, no limp mode, got 50.8km out of it. :D Before I was lucky to get 38km, mostly only 36km. In the end the ICE did kick in for a short time up a short hill but switched off again when it was flat so that 0.8km doesn't count. I did press a...

I would not press the start button as this could exceed 10A and fry the diodes. I also suggest to switch off the tail gate ceiling light(and no other doors open) to keep things in check.

Somebody need to test it. Right now for me pointless I am quite sure that it is not only about the battery voltage but how far the voltage changes under load. A weak battery will drop, in my case from 10.5V open circuit down to 8.5V under a 1.44Ω load (100W lamp at 12V) which is 6A. This lamp...

There you go: The Diode Dropper for the ADD-method :mrgreen: Took me less than 5 minutes. Never mind the fuse holder, I just took that wire from another project. You should be able to get all those bits for less than 10 bucks at the local Jaycar store, or whatever your electronic parts...

Careful with those regulated/dimmer 12V LED supplies. AFAIK they could be PWM controlled, duty rate 12V on/off switching. This works far more efficient for lighting. Normally the voltage control of the 12V is fairly minimal, doubt they go down to 8.5V. There are proper DC step down converters...

Yes terminology issue. Any charge for me less than 0.1C is a trickle charge, no matter how long, but yes secondary works for me too. I think the extended secondary stage comes from the fact that the BMU software 'thinks' that the battery is only 94% charged and stays on longer in an attempt to...

You could have just done step 4d from the A-Method, I reckon 2-3 minutes would have brought it up to 8.5V and saved you the mess of discharging the Auxiliary. Anyhow great you got it working :)

I am so glad I don't have to mess around with pirated software. It almost looks like fate that the data cable was lost in the post and I succeeded with this the next day. ...and I have now $20 to buy some really good beer and celebrate my 'new' car :mrgreen:

Every device with Li-Ion that I have serviced and own has a trickle charge in the end. This is based on the physics behind charging a Li-Ion battery and the only way to provide a 100% charge. Up until 4.1V you have a constant current charge, when it reaches 4.1V it becomes a constant voltage...

A miserly 1.18A trickle charge ! This is factual evidence that after this reset method, for me at least, that the battery does not get overcharged. Keep in mind that I am using a slow charger that I have designed to match the output of my solar panels. It is likely that the charge process would...

Lets have a look under the hood (of my meter box) so we can measure how many Amps it is actually charging with:

This is my DIY slow charger in action that normally charges at 5.3A:

Now look closely at the recorded time top right, it is a whole hour later but SoC has hardly changed. This looks like a trickle charge to me and it is not over charging over the 4.1V:

After charging a while I saw this, what I would consider a realistic capacity for a near 5 year old battery:

Thanks :D Yes I immediately started recording the results and they are now in :ugeek: Yes the first image is from the ugly past:

I have been trying these battery disconnect methods for weeks trying to get more than 29Ah out of my stubborn Australian PHEV. BAZINGA ! Today I finally got it !!! It is a modification of the D-Method with precise instruction how to get it right. As this is the first time I am aware that it...

Good idea but I am jinxed again. I have two 500 Farad super caps here but they are 2.7V each so only good for 5.4V. Why didn't I order 3 back then? :slap_on_the_head: Will take at least three weeks to get more from China.

...arrrgg, I must be jinxed :evil: After waiting so long, the Ebay seller tells me that my cable has been lost in the Post and has refunded the $20. Mitsu ppl being so open to do a BMU reset for me here in Australia? I doubt the local dealer has ever seen a PHEV before and know what a BMU...

What? ...are you having me on ? This is what YOU posted: and another poster: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4533&start=40