Search results

I left mine outside for 6 months. When I returned, the aux battery was flat, even though the main battery was still above 50%. I managed to get the aux re-charged (not easy at the time) and all seems fine after that. I suspect the way that the (UK) alam was wired was the cause. Putting the aux...

Great! Thanks very much. I have tried reading through the manual, but didn't find that. Luckily, no dog guard but the boot is full of stuff that I'll need to remove via the front door after climbing over seats! Assume the panel to remove is on the tailgate? Added later: Found a little panel and...

I got myself a Victron charger (IP65 25A) and connected to the points under the bonnet. It doesn't seem to be having much effect. I'd expect everything to come alive, but it's all completely dead. I thought I'd try getting a direct connection to the aux battery but cannot open the tailgate (nor...

My car has a black box fitted (by insurance company) so that'll create a parasitic drain. I had been unable to open the doors (using proximity of the fob) and changed the fob battery a couple of times. I now think it was a weak aux battery that may have been the problem. Which C-teK charger...

Thanks for the swift replies! I am unable to drive at the moment, hence the long period without use. I think the answer might be to put a charger across the aux battery. I've not lifted the bonnet but might look at that as an alternative. I'll need to get a decent charger first (any suggestions?).

I have a UK MY18 GHS (I think) Not used it for a couple of months. Yesterday, the alarm went off for no aparent reason Today I went to charge it up but could only get in using the key. Car would not 'start' but the 'start' button has a blue light (there must be some power left) No other displays...

The engine is started by the front drive motor, using the big Lithium battery. The auxiliary battery is in the back to support 12V operation. (You may already know that, but used inappropriate terms.) I'd make sure that a replacement battery is the same battery type as that removed (I thought...

If you're "charging for free" overnight, are you plugging into a neighbour's supply?

Fast charging can only be achieved using a charge point (and is unlikely to be worth it). Charging the battery up with the engine is a good idea, i think, because it 'exercises' the battery. You'll get better economy if you can grab a few kWh from the grid at domestic prices.

That does not sound like a battery problem because the battery is used when the door button is pressed. As it happens with both fobs, it looks like the receiver in the car. I'm not sure I can provide any further help other than suggest a visit to the dealer.

I've never trusted mine to do that. I prefer to use the speed limiter to keep me within the limit and then drive 'normally'. i only wish there was an automatic way to keep the speed set to the local limit (traffic sign recognition). I did try the ACC on a motorway but found that the car started...

I don't think you can tell much about capacity loss from the guessometer. Mine varies considerably with the outside temperature but the summertime ranges don't seem to have changed much at all. The car is just over 5yrs old now (MY18). I used to run the watchdog app when I had an Android phone...

I'm unsure what the benefit of that is? You could see what charges have been achieved by looking at the (short term) charging history.

I'm not sure that, once "Charge Complete" has been accomplished, the charger would not spring into action again until re-connected. Doesn't the main battery check and charge the 12V battery itself? I would leave the car at least 3/4 fully charged. I've left my car unused for over a couple of...

Not sure why you ask nor, exactly, what you are asking for? I only put mine into "Charge" mode occasionally, when I'm on a motorway and consider that I may need more EV (than I have "Saved") later in the journey (eg. for slow or hilly roads) where EV might be more efficient than ICE. I'm sure...

I think you need to negate the miles completed using plugged-in electricity. Your mpg figure is 'true' but cannot be compared to others without discounting any miles powered by other sources.

I don't know why insurance's jumped so much (it seems to be common in the UK). There must have been a spate of claims or the underwriters have miscalculated somewhere.

I have recorded the cost of every drop of fuel and coulomb of electricity that I've put into my car: £1255 petrol for 948 litres + £852.2 (domestic) electricity for 4549 kWh = £2107 overall, to cover 17747 miles. Equivalent to 11.9p/mile (say 12p/mile) but that's not why I bought it. Using the...

A nice idea BUT I don't think you can drive at the same time as you're charging. The assumption being, among other things, that the cable would be attached to a stationary fixture.

There are two things to consider: 1. The power of the inverter must be adequate for the item you want to use with it and the wires used must be large (thick) enough to cope with the current. 1200W = 12V x 100A! 100A requires very thick wires from a 12V source to the inverter. The wires will only...