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Teslas have multiple "dashcams" and send data to Tesla, which is how they can prove that the accidents weren't due to the car software. In fact the accident rate is lower when their autopilot is used ! Another trick by the Stockbrokers who have "shorted" loads of Tesla stock, hoping it will go...

I should have said "coasting is not ONLY about long downhill stretches". Are you really coasting Hampstead to Camden, or gently braking/regen ?

B0 coasting is not about long downhill stretches, it's about short stretches that add up. The PHEV is heavy and has a lot of inertia, so as soon as you take your foot of the accelerator, it just keeps going, even on stretches you don't realise are downhill. And on typical UK minor roads, more...

Didn't know you could get 90 octane in the UK, it's usually 95, and a super of some kind (98?). My filler says 95+, which means 95 or higher. Using 90 might cause pre-detonation aka pinking, which is not a Good Thing.

Does your car have electric heating, or like mine, you have to use hot water from the ICE? If electric heating, that will start to deplete the charge from the start, so I would guess that with a B regen setting that gets you down that 900m drop at a steady speed, you could get to work nearly...

You shouldn't fixate on "lower mpg", you have to use the ICE on your journey, and that is that.

Agreed. New owners need to appreciate that braking has to be gentle, or the real brakes will be applied.

There are myriad opinions on CHRG and SAVE. There are graphs in the Tech Section that suggest there is a Sweet Spot or Area for running the ICE, between 40 and 60mph. I would CHRG on the 25 mile motorway section, where you can maintain a steady speed. Then start CHRG again when it becomes...

Pretty much agree with everything said above, with some small tweaks. Using no charge at all is more efficient than any regen setting, so I use B0 and coasting a lot. In really slow, frequently stop-go traffic, I use B5 to save my brake foot, but B0, coasting, and gentle braking, is probably...

No & No, 2014. Assuming the ICE is running and accelerating, the whistle could be from a hole, or loose connection, in the air intake.

Well when he replaces the tyre it should get interesting.....

That's a good one to know. Who'd have thought - my previous Merc would have thrown an ABS or Electronic Stability error. Put a similar new tyre on the other side, you are advised to replace tyres in pairs.

How did you reset the fault code? (For me the yellow lettering in your signature is unreadable)

Mitch are these shifting pads due to non-OEM replacements, or just how they come from the factory ?

???? So which is it, is the PHEV "started" by the 12V battery or the EV battery?

Tricky to diagnose if it's sometimes front, sometimes back. Loose exhaust system?

How many amps are needed to "start" the car (foot on the brake, press the button) ? Would your average 12V battery charger attached to the jump-start terminals do the job?

Can you not use the portable plug-in EVSE that comes with the car? Not something I've needed to do in the UK, perhaps it doesn't give enough output at 110V?

Do you mean Regen - using the electric motor to charge during slowing down? I wouldn't think you get enough charge to eliminate a mains charge at work. Or do you mean CHRG, using the petrol engine to charge the ev battery? That gives you hundreds of miles of range. Some posters on this Forum...

I've had similar experience in every brand of used car I've owned, occasional non-responsive window switches. Is it the same with the driver's switch for the passenger window? I can't imagine why the dongle would affect the window operation, but who knows - try for a while with the dongle...